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Good sanding mask for drywall seam filling

2.2K views 70 replies 7 participants last post by  phillipd  
#1 ·
Are the disposable 3M type masks ok for doing this or should I have something with cartridges?
Thank you for any suggestions
 
#5 ·
The thing as far as dust masks go is the fit, if it doesn't fit and has open spots dust can get in. Just make sure you make what ever mask you use seal good. I can't tolerate sawdust or dusty situations so I use the 3M mask.
I have tried several and this is the only one so far that seals best. Just my experiences.
 
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#9 ·
From my experience, those paper masks are pretty much worthless. The air will travel through the path of least resistance, which is all the gaps around the side and nose of the mask. I'm old school enough that I don't worry about all the little particles of dust in the air like the kids these days seem to. My 80+ year old Dad was a professional painter most of his life and breathed all kinds of nasty stuff from drywall to paint fumes and has no breathing issues. If you are really concerned, get a good quality 3m respirator.

As for drywall work, I find Drywall doctor on youtube has some great information. I like that his videos are always done on a job and not some made up situation in a home studio, like a lot of youtubers.

The two biggest tips I got from him are: 1) Prefill all the joints and screw holes with 20/45/90 minute mud or durabond (if they have it in your area) before taping. 2) Make absolutely sure your mud is dry all the way through before sanding. If you sand before the drywall is all the way dry, it will shrink and you will see every screw hole and seam in the wall. I learned this the hard way after sanding and painting the next day after mudding. A fan on drywall mud will dry the outside fast, but it will stay wet underneath that for a while, especially if it is thick.

I'm still really bad at taping butt seams and I had a thought that might help (which I am going to test when I do some more drywall work in about a week). After putting the paper tape on and applying the mud, I'm going to take a drywall knife and put a piece or two of blue tape on either side of the blade to raise it up a bit, then go over the seam. This should remove the excess mud without scraping it all the way off of the tape. After that dries, feather it in with a wide blade and it should come out pretty clean. I got this idea after watching how Flat boxes work. It's not exactly the same thing, but it should keep me from leaving too much mud on the wall or wiping all the mud off the tape on butt joints.

If you have some money to spend, A drywall sander, like the dewalt along with a shop vac can save you a lot of work on a bad mud job and keep the dust down. The Marshalltown Vacuum hand sander will also work well for getting in the corners without making a dusty mess. The Joest Sanding sheets and disks work much better than the mesh sanders for vacuum sanders and give a great finish.
 
#10 ·
Thank you very much and I did see his videos. My father in law is a retired carpenter and also suggested Durbond 90 so I did all the seams first. I’ll look at the sanders for sure. I’m not in a rush to finish so I may sand with a block and handle but we’ll see. If I have it finished primed and painted by the first of December I’ll be happy as I don’t really need the space right now and I’m just picking at it on weekends. I’m not scared of dust but I’ve gotten myself sick a few times over the years shovelling out dirty grain tanks. I’d start out with a mask but between the heat and black dust I’d throw it away then breath it all in and occasionally end up with a lung infection. Just trying to be careful.
 
#15 ·
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Are the disposable 3M type masks ok for doing this or should I have something with cartridges?
Thank you for any suggestions

Here’s where I’m at so far, Durbond 90 in all bare seams 1 layer of all purpose drywall compound in all joints/seams taped with a layer over the tape and 1 coat over screws/holes. I’m off next weekend also so planning to get 2 more light coats on everything then I can start sanding. Still hoping to have it painted by mid November. Not pretty but so far it’s getting done haha.
 
#17 ·
So far, so good, eh?

Pics don't always tell the entire story.

Examining them as closely as I can......

Not many fasteners in the ceiling.... screws should be about 9" apart.

Areas of solid, not feathered mud lines... those lines may cause difficulty with final coat.

Finish mud with a 12" knife... feather joints to nothing at apprx. 12" each side of joint.

Take your time; it will be worthwhile.

Will you texture the ceiling/walls? texture will camouflage some flaws.

Hang in there. You're doing fine.
(y) :)
 
#18 ·
So far, so good, eh?

Pics don't always tell the entire story.

Examining them as closely as I can......

Not many fasteners in the ceiling.... screws should be about 9" apart.

Areas of solid, not feathered mud lines... those lines may cause difficulty with final coat.

Finish mud with a 12" knife... feather joints to nothing at apprx. 12" each side of joint.

Take your time; it will be worthwhile.

Will you texture the ceiling/walls? texture will camouflage some flaws.

Hang in there. You're doing fine.
(y) :)
Thank you very much! I can definitely pick up a 12” knife and give that technique a try. Not planning nothing fancy on texture but I’m curious on what you’re thinking for sure.
 
#21 ·
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Are the disposable 3M type masks ok for doing this or should I have something with cartridges?
Thank you for any suggestions

I finished the second coat today as it’s a holiday here. I’m hoping 1 more light coat then I can start sanding. I bought a 12” blade like suggested and once I got used to it I found it it does a lot better job blending. Again thank you for any suggestions and I have an even bigger respect for professional seam fillers.
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#24 ·
@phillipd


Next step.... Sanding.

Suggest this tool. It will take a few minutes practice use but will save time and effort.

While I can't see your finished mud, consider using sanding screen. or 120 grit and finer paper.

Avoid scuffing the drywall paper. be gentle.

Do not use heavy pressure; let the tool and screen do the work.... take your time.




156
ToolPro - 3-3/8 in. x 9-3/8 in. Swivel Head Drywall Pole Sander with 48 in. Wood Handle



3-3/8 in. x 9-3/8 in. Swivel Head Drywall Pole Sander with 48 in. Wood Handle
by
ToolPro


(Brand Rating: 4.3/5)


  • Feature thumbscrews for use with multiple sheets
  • Swivel head allows for ease of movement for comfortable use
  • Made of high-grade materials for enhanced durability
 
#25 ·
@phillipd


Next step.... Sanding.

Suggest this tool. It will take a few minutes practice use but will save time and effort.

While I can't see your finished mud, consider using sanding screen. or 120 grit and finer paper.

Avoid scuffing the drywall paper. be gentle.

Do not use heavy pressure; let the tool and screen do the work.... take your time.




156
ToolPro - 3-3/8 in. x 9-3/8 in. Swivel Head Drywall Pole Sander with 48 in. Wood Handle



3-3/8 in. x 9-3/8 in. Swivel Head Drywall Pole Sander with 48 in. Wood Handle
by
ToolPro


(Brand Rating: 4.3/5)


  • Feature thumbscrews for use with multiple sheets
  • Swivel head allows for ease of movement for comfortable use
  • Made of high-grade materials for enhanced durability
Thank you very much wonderful help!
 
#32 ·
@phillipd

Great!


Don't worry about the errors, sometimes they happen to Pros; It's part of your learning curve;
You're doing fine.

The goal is to eliminate the "DIY done" factor and with patience, you're doing it.
Part of that means, as the applicator you may notice some finish flaws but they will not stand out to others unless you, personally, mention them.

After you complete sanding, you check for flatness of the wall. It will not be perfect but must be near enough to not exhibit waves ( the reason for wider feathering from joints ). I am assuming you are not going to "float" / "skim" the entirety of drywall.

While progressing that direction....

if texture is applied, you want it to closely match the rest of the house.
It would be good to have a 2-3 sf pic of the existing wall/ceil texture.

Oh, you 'll need a sheet of drywall to practice the texture application before you start the walls. A couple of half sheets can work.

Be patient with yourself; you're going great! enjoy the learning.

It won't be long before you'll be on this forum sharing your adventure with others attempting what you are doing. Enjoy the learning. ! (y) :)

You're closing in on paint prep.. nearer to the finish.
 
#33 ·
@phillipd

Great!


Don't worry about the errors, sometimes they happen to Pros; It's part of your learning curve;
You're doing fine.

The goal is to eliminate the "DIY done" factor and with patience, you're doing it.
Part of that means, as the applicator you may notice some finish flaws but they will not stand out to others unless you, personally, mention them.

After you complete sanding, you check for flatness of the wall. It will not be perfect but must be near enough to not exhibit waves ( the reason for wider feathering from joints ). I am assuming you are not going to "float" / "skim" the entirety of drywall.

While progressing that direction....

if texture is applied, you want it to closely match the rest of the house.
It would be good to have a 2-3 sf pic of the existing wall/ceil texture.

Oh, you 'll need a sheet of drywall to practice the texture application before you start the walls. A couple of half sheets can work.

Be patient with yourself; you're going great! enjoy the learning.

It won't be long before you'll be on this forum sharing your adventure with others attempting what you are doing. Enjoy the learning. ! (y) :)

You're closing in on paint prep.. nearer to the finish.
Thank you very much! This area is upstairs of our garage just outside the stairway door is drywall that was professionally done and was only finished with primer (I thought it was paint they did so well) once you get downstairs it’s white steel walls and drywall ceiling painted white. I definitely want it to look as good as I possibly can but doesn’t need to be perfect. The end use will probably be a mix between storage and workshop. I have 2 leftover sheets of drywall for practicing on. I’ll post a few pictures of the stairway in a bit!
 
#40 · (Edited)
@phillipd

You didn't ask and you may already know this.

Tools make a difference.

If SPRAYING, use a full face respirator. See post #5 herein.

Consider using "Purdy" or "Wooster" branded latex designated brushes.

And, Lambs Wool roller covers. 3/4 or 1" inch. ( longer the nap, more possible splatter )

Instead of a "roller pan", work from a partially filled 5 gal. (U.S.) pail with a paint grid.
Grids are available in different sizes.


Use a 5-Way Gazer's Knife and spinner to clean your tools. Brushes and roller covers.
Use a quality heavy duty Roller Frame

edit: AND 4' Extension pole
 
#42 ·
You'll get some roller stipple from rolling although the difference between using a 3/8" nap and 1/2" is negligible. I'd use a 1/2" because it's easier to keep the roller full of paint.

Look at the drywall as you apply the primer. Any defects in the finish will be easier to spot while the paint it wet. Easier to fix them now than after the final coat of paint is applied.
 
#44 ·
@ phillipd

I overlooked it, but as mentioned by @ mark sr above #42, Roller stipple can or maybe should be a consideration for you.

Maybe compare with your previously finished walls.





Thank you both for the wonderful tips! If you ever have any electrical questions please don’t be scared to ask! Ok adding up the sheets of drywall I’m looking at 1000-1100 square feet of surface area, what would you recommend I pick up for volume to start ?
 
#65 ·
WOW!
Great work!

No visible waves in the wall; joints look good and paint appears even.
Bask in your success. Enjoy your adventure.

Remember, you are your own nastiest critic. If you see flaws, don't point them out to anyone when you are complimented. Accept the acknowledgement of your fine work.

Also, you've given us (forum members) a bit of vicarious satisfaction by accepting our assistance.

You did yourself proud; stand tall in your accomplishment.

Now that your near completion, what's your next project? :)

We're here.

Hope you enjoyed your adventure.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!
 
#66 ·
WOW!
Great work!

No visible waves in the wall; joints look good and paint appears even.
Bask in your success. Enjoy your adventure.

Remember, you are your own nastiest critic. If you see flaws, don't point them out to anyone when you are complimented. Accept the acknowledgement of your fine work.

Also, you've given us (forum members) a bit of vicarious satisfaction by accepting our assistance.

You did yourself proud; stand tall in your accomplishment.

Now that your near completion, what's your next project? :)

We're here.

Hope you enjoyed your adventure.

CONGRATULATIONS!!!
Thank you very much! I think painting the floor up there’s going to be next !
 
#68 · (Edited)
@phillipd


CONGRATULATIONS !
Your adventure was well worth the efforts.
Looks Terrific !

Vicariously, we also get the satisfaction of accomplishment, :LOL:
What next can we give help ?

after thought:
People seem to have a need for floor coatings. It will be nice to get a durability evaluation on that Brand after about a year or sooner if it deteriorates.
 
#69 ·
@phillipd


CONGRATULATIONS !
Your adventure was well worth the efforts.
Looks Terrific !

Vicariously, we also get the satisfaction of accomplishment, :LOL:
What next can we give help ?

after thought:
People seem to have a need for floor coatings. It will be nice to get a durability evaluation on that Brand after about a year or sooner if it deteriorates.
Definitely and thank you! I may be building/installing commercial shelving in there this fall