That video says to drain the tank first. There's really no reason to do that. Just drain a couple of gallons to relieve pressure and drop the level of water a bit before removing the anode.

 

Thanks to everyone for their responses. I’m not exactly sure what I’m going to do. I don’t have the strength or tools to deal with it myself and getting someone over here will be difficult and pricey. I’m inclined to just put electrical tape over the blinking light and forget about it until the tank truly expires…..

 

I have one been in 44 years without a change and we do not have soft water. Most of the time,,, I said most but tat will get missed I am sure rotten eggs comes from dirty water and from sitting without use. I wouldnt mess with it if I didnt have to.

 

Here is a vid with the same issue, as said in the vid, a regular anode rod can be used, but your electronic anode rod depletion sensor thing won't work any longer.

 

Welcome to the Chatroom.

It seems clear to me that your GE water heater and the Bradford White “GeoSpring” heaters are one and the same. Although your GEH50DEEJSCA is no longer manufactured by BW, I’d be surprised if it is significantly different than the GEH50DEEJS model that is. BW only seems to sell one “Geospring Anode Rod”, which is 40” long, so would fit your 60” tall unit. I think that you’d be safe to buy that anode. Having said that, it’s fairly expensive ($244), whereas a non-sensing BW anode rod is $58. Since your incoming water is probably not changing, you could just use the seven year life that the sensing anode gave you to time your next replacement. The manual says that it is fine to use a non-sensing replacement anode.

We don’t have soft water and there’s no rotten egg smell so I’m wondering if it really needs to be replaced but I’m sick to think I’m helplessly watching the heater die- it wasn’t cheep.

You’ll get conflicting advice about this from the regular posters here. Getting the anode rod out can be a challenge, since it can take a whole lot of torque to free it. When I had a water heater with an anode I replaced it on a regular basis.

 

I did a bit of searching and found like you nothing is available. So you have two choices. Spend the TIME and call GE and pray you can find some one that can point you in the direction of a current replacement. OR start saving for a new water heater.

 

For $265 you are better off without it

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Bradford-White-415-52675-00-Geospring-Anode-Rod

 

I assumed at least anode bolt is standard 1-1/16. You get segmented anode rod. I bought rheem magnesium anode which came in 4 sections and had to remove one because original measured shorter. I should have used the whole thing. Then write the date and next change date with marker on the tank. Heck, if you pass by the heater and never think about it, then print a calendar (free online print a calendar.com or such) into next 3 years and sticky a reminder.

 

Hello,
I have an 8 year old GeoSpring Hybrid water heater that has been displaying F16 “Anode Rod Depleted“ warning for at least 9 month’s. It hasn’t been replaced not for a lack of my efforts in searching for help. The frustrating problem is that GE discontinued this model (GEH50DEEJSCA) and the part (WS02X20625) a few years ago. I’ve tried several local contractors that said they couldn’t help if they even called me back. However the local supplier said he would contact Bradford White to see if one of theirs could be used even if it had to be shortened. We’ll this shot my hopes up into the stratosphere but after several reminders I never heard back from him.
We don’t have soft water and there’s no rotten egg smell so I’m wondering if it really needs to be replaced but I’m sick to think I’m helplessly watching the heater die- it wasn’t cheep. Any advice anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated!

I agree, just buy a regular magnesium anode rod at your local box store. Your auto sensor letting you know it's depleted won't work any longer, no biggie, as mentioned, just write the date last changed by the anode rod somewhere.

They have collapsible and solid ones, your choice. Just measure the old one you take out or tank depth if nothing exists of the old one and cut the new rod to proper length. You'll be good to go. 30 bucks or so is better than 250-300 dollars. your call.

 

He should be saving for a water heater but I dont see any proof it make a difference as a whole. I seen several units get replaced that were maintained and some never and still work. The changing it is NOT a guarantee against failure.
I would say the math on average might be similar to extended warranty.
Right now it aint leaking and still running.

 

If I was buying a new electric water heater it would be 500$ one. The model you have has been discontinued, anything with sensors is going to give problems.
Ideally,, I dont but should is have a hose,,, I got the hose but forget to open the valve on the bottom once in a while. If my water was somewhat hard would buy a new lower element in about 5 years, a universal is 15 bucks would open it up and take a look and change it out after cleaning with a shop vac with a snorkle

 

The OP has a water heater that is a combination of traditional electric resistance heater and air-to-water heat pump. It will have cost considerably more than a traditional electric water heater, so spending a bit of time and money in the probability that it will extend its life is money well spent. Once the tank gets a pinprick corrosion hole it will be destined for the junkyard, regardless of how much it cost to purchase.

 

I worked on an electrc dryer yesterday, I am going to reach up in my storage I have an old dryer , even if i got to fix a wheel not half the battle is something with 50 fuggin lights on it.
My bud gave me one I shelved that had a few hrs on it a while back and i set it there for the day when the water heater springs. Best time to shop for something is before you need it.

 

Yes,,, I was just cotemplating someting I should have done long ago and that is put a moderating tank in one place that would be easy and warm to take advantage of simple passive heating. I could get from 45 all year to 70 for free with 1 tank and no moving parts?

 

Here's some advice: Attempt to remove the anode first, before you even bother buying a replacement.
They are purposely over-torqued at the factory with upwards of 450 ft-lbs, just so that the user can't remove it unless he is Hercules. That way they sell more water heaters.
After 8 yrs of corrosion, you are unlikely to ever get it loose, or you might just bust a copper joint in your plumbing by twisting the entire heater.

 

Just an observation.... If one had any machinist experience ...... Looks like you could easily drill & tap the new anode rod to complete the sensor circuit.

 

I think there is something in the rod that connects to that terminal

 

It may just be a failsafe electrical connection that grounds the rod to the tank. Many sites suggest being sure after standard anode installation that there is continuity ( i.e. checking with a meter ) between the rod threads and the tank itself for the rod to "function" as designed.

See at 6:45

 

Or, when the time comes, replace it with an anode-less water heater. Sorry no hybrid versions made.

Marathon - Rheem Manufacturing Company

www.rheem.com

Went through TWO conventional glass lined (with anodes) in six years on a well with 16 grains of calcium hardness and a softener.

That was 15 years ago.

Became religious about WH flushing on WH#2 and used to see large quantities of calcium flush out. Lost my religion with my Marathon. Now, even with multi year gaps the effort only yield partial cup fulls.

They have changed the fundamental design though. Used to be a spun / wound fiberglass tank with a bladder insert. Now its some type of blow-molded plastic tank. And with a lifetime tank warranty!

HTH!

 

I find one from prosource, around $215 The part is Bradford White 415-52675-00 Geospring Anode Rod