Will it be hardwired from the panel, or will it plug into a power source closer to the application? Is it operating on line voltage (120v) or low voltage? If the latter, where is the transformer located?

 

It won’t make any difference to the gate opener, but it might to you. The purpose of a GFCI is to protect people, not equipment. If you’re working on the gate control box and 120V current flows through you to the ground, the GFCI might shut off the power before it kills you.

 

If he works on the gate control box without turning off the power to it and 120V current flows through him to the ground, he will get what he deserves...

 

Its almost always better on gfci, its one of the greatest fail/safe things they ever invented and made up for a lot of sins.
It was super great on ratty old service stuff where the connections never were right or had failed, had become disconnected etc.

 

I would say no because you don’t want any nuisance tripping. I would cut the cord end off the gate equipment and hard wire it . I would still have an outlet out there with a gfci just put the gate on the line side. So you still have the option to put Christmas lights at the gate or what not

 

If it plugs in and is outside, it needs GFCI protection. How you provide that is up to you.

 

Still looking for you to tell us the information requested in post #2 so we can give you a more detailed answer.

 

looks like it might not be as sensitive as national security. Personally would always rather find a fault at low current rather than 75A. Out of semi convenience and cost still use a common recept if I can.
A thread like this is a spark,,, I have one I really dont use and outlived its purpose and while we yack about additional installs I am not against removing some especially if its old and simply not used.

 

looks like it might not be as sensitive as national security. Personally would always rather find a fault at low current rather than 75A. Out of semi convenience and cost still use a common recept if I can.
A thread like this is a spark,,, I have one I really dont use and outlived its purpose and while we yack about additional installs I am not against removing some especially if its old and simply not used.

What in the hell are you talking about?

 

I ran in to a fault relatively recently didnt show up on a grounded circuit. Out of curiosity when did gfci show up for garages? First it was kitchen, bath, outdoor.

 

What was that fault?

My builder mustabeen ahead of the game. Or mebbe the city inspecton process.
My house had GFI in garage, kitchen, bath and outdoor in 2004 when built.
And 200A and outside disconnect.

 

I'd do a gfi and fall back to nonGFI if there is any problem and then find out what the problem is.
But then, I have spare gfi breakers and outlets. I wouldn't mess around with this stuph without
known good spares.

 

My neighbor is a licensed master. Most of his old house is 2 wire and maybe even fuses,,, his garage is still that way. Its legal and he is happy.
I am a bit of an upgrade junkie. Not the first in line but if I have a chance to change a panel or put 4 wire to an appliance I am on it.

 

In my case I have people using it. Ours is piped so adding was a cover and recept change for the most part. I still have some outlets doesnt have it but its available and in the real popular or what would a few cycles ago been required.
Probably own 50 of them.

 

I have that Liftmaster and when it wouldn't open I tried to figure out what circuit it was on. Took a while to realize the gate was powered by the batteries, not the A/C . When the batteries wouldn't charge I replaced the transformer, never did find out what circuit but it's a long way from the kitchen so I'm guessing a living room receptacle.

 

Took a while to realize the gate was powered by the batteries, not the A/C

Thus my request for his power needs. It doesn't make sense for us to diagnose his problem without answers. @waawpe you awake?

 

Will it be hardwired from the panel, or will it plug into a power source closer to the application? Is it operating on line voltage (120v) or low voltage? If the latter, where is the transformer located?

Still looking for you to tell us the information requested in post #2 so we can give you a more detailed answer.

Thus my request for his power needs. It doesn't make sense for us to diagnose his problem without answers. @waawpe you awake?

Maybe the OP doesn't know the answers to your questions, but they're all answered by the info in the manual. Hard-wired 120V power supplies a built-in transformer that supplies power to charge two 12V batteries wired in series to provide 24VDC power for the control board and motor that operates the gate opener.

 

I have a GFCI outlet for a remote refrigerator. It opens on occasion. I have replaced the outlet and it still happens. Things happen with extension cords and things buried. Buried is better. With good connections that don't get wet/moisture.

 

If it was hard wired would probably have/add a service switch.

 

That's just it. @waawpe has never returned to tell us how it is wired.

 

We need a get a grip button here. Not everyone walks by this is gonna die either way.

 

Neighbor girl reads stuff like that, scared to plug a heat tape in an lets the stuff freeze.

 

Before the GFCI was invented, ground fault protection was the metal grounded case of the appliance. This is a perfectly safe and acceptable way of providing protection against electric shocks.

However, the issue is that if there is an electrical socket in a location that could get wet (bath, kitchen, outside), then someone will unplug the grounded gate opener plugged and plug in something else, albeit temporary, that doesn't have a metal grounded case, and thus will not be protected against a ground fault. For this reason the code, and good safety practice requires GFCI protection for all outlets located where water is possible (including garages).

A gate opener with a grounded case already has the ground fault protection needed, but the issue is the socket. Therefore, one perfectly acceptable solution is to remove the socket and directly wire the gate opener to the circuit, bypassing the plug and socket. Then you don't need a GFCI. Of course, the gate opener must be listed for a direct wired connection. If this is the case, it will have screw terminals and a 1/2" hole for the conduit.

 

All 120 volt outlets outside require GFCI. If you question that, look up the NEC definition of an outlet.

 

If there have been many arguments over time it is related to grounding. Theoretically there should only be ONE GROUND and that Neutral-Ground tie is the point of ground. Ground being a copper or steal-copper rod or array driven into the ground straight off the mains. ONE only. But what if you have a water well? What if you have a metal pole building? What if you have a steel gate? Outbuildings? What if you live in an area of lightning strikes and cross country power transmission lines? Even power poles nearby? All of these are complexities with lightning being something you can do best efforts to remediate but it will still burn your house down.

As always, it depends where you live. This is all covered in the NEC. And of course your local electrician and inspector will have their own opinion if you involve them. But to the OP, I would do a GFI to the gate AND a weatherproof outlet there because it might be handy some day for something else. Whether you ground the gate opener/outlet to the gate frame probably dictates how often you have to walk around it to the house to reset it (for no obvious reason). Because ground transient current will trip it. Or maybe not. You have violated the single point ground at your main panel. And a tripped GFI will tell you "No, this doesn't work". Then just do a solar opener with a battery disconnected from your AC wiring.

 

I have always thought solar charging on a gate to be optimal. No need to dig a trench for power. Running control wires would be optional and wouldn't require such a deep trench. No GFCI needed.

 

No control wires. Just clickers in everything.

 

This aint all that big of a deal. But,,, just sayin,,, if it was mine,,, depending on length,,, no reason NOT to have anythinbg outside gfci which is really the "intent" of all the code upgrades for decades involving gfci. Would rather detect a small fault than a large one on a long circuit that I might dedicate to this or reduce the ocpd to as low as practicaL. AM i REALLY going to run AC or space heater,,,, table saws there?

 

AM i REALLY going to run AC or space heater,,,, table saws there?

No, but maybe a trouble light or a battery charger. Maybe a block heater? I hate extension cords with a passion esp when you need 2ea 100' cords. Afterthought, even if you do a battery unit you should have and outlet there.

 

How much is this really going to be used for personnel?

 

Ever been to the docks in Key West,,, wanna see some pitiful junk. No matter what, an extension cord, and doubly if it was on gfci not really likely a threat to many people.

 

If a guy wants an outlet there and willing to pay fine. I am not sure why a guy might really need it, so he can see it from his living room and makes him feel good.
Be a different matter if I really needed service, dig 200 ft and park some wire on another circuit I will likely never use for squat,,, I would use a cord for a temp job vs the install and maint. and general depreciation.