Don't like that header.
Put a 12" micro there, dbl if rafters stack over it.

 

I thinking you may be better off asking an important structural design question like this to a paid professional.

Or just blame Titanoman if it sags or your garage falls down, I am sure he wouldn't mind taking on the liability.

Andy.

 

you should really get a engineer to spec this header. the issue with garage door headers is that not only do they have to support the weight of the rafters sitting on it and not sag but they also have to resist wind loads so they dont deflect laterally.

typically any garage i frame, the header is spec'd as a 2ply lvl for shorter spans and can be a glulam or steel beam for larger garage doors

 

How come your make believe header has changed since your first thread in this? This would never work....so call an architect or engineer....then call your building department...

 

I thinking you may be better off asking an important structural design question like this to a paid professional.

Or just blame Titanoman if it sags or your garage falls down, I am sure he wouldn't mind taking on the liability.

Andy.

Why are you bad-mouthing me?
I don't like some of the stuff you say sometimes, but I keep opinions like that out of the public forum.

This picture is of 33 houses I built '95-'98.
All garage headers are as I suggested here, which is what code and the inspector warranted.
I built the same garage so many times I have the header memorized.

Or is everybody wrong but you and your way?

http://www.imgur.com/O9jMe.jpg


Edit: useless picture, I know

 

Why are you bad-mouthing me?
I don't like some of the stuff you say sometimes, but I keep opinions like that out of the public forum.

This picture is of 33 houses I built '95-'98.
All garage headers are as I suggested here, which is what code and the inspector warranted.
I built the same garage so many times I have the header memorized.

Or is everybody wrong but you and your way?

http://www.imgur.com/O9jMe.jpg


Edit: useless picture, I know

im not trying to stir up any sh... here but that was 12-16 years ago,, framing material quality has gone down in that time frame as there are more and more fast growing trees being used for lumber now... conventional lumber for header material that has to span more than 7' is quickly becoming a thing of the past

 

Dupe...

 

Dupe.

 

Dupe...

 

Besides suggesting engineering on this.....

To put it in perspective....

My garage is 20x30....14' wide door....

That header is a PSL beam...7"w x 11"h

You can see pics of it in the garge build link in my sig....

I'm inclined to think that what your suggesting is a bit on the weak side....

 

im not trying to stir up any sh... here but that was 12-16 years ago,, framing material quality has gone down in that time frame as there are more and more fast growing trees being used for lumber now... conventional lumber for header material that has to span more than 7' is quickly becoming a thing of the past

Huh?
One of us is confused.
I said to use microlams, not conventional lumber.

 

Jeez folks. I didn't mean to start an on-line war here. Joe, This is not a "make-believe" header. My first post was my very first post on this site and perhaps I didn't make myself clear enough. I also admitted to being a novice in some aspects of construction. So, I will try to explain exactly what I have and see if this makes more sense. My header is constructed of one 12" I-joist. If that is not the proper terminology then I apologize. What it is is a 12" I-beam construction floor joist. I filled in both sides with plywood, making it a solid 2" thick beam. I then plated that with a standard 2/12 thus creating a solid 3 1/2 by 12" header across my span. I am simply looking for advice. If this site is designed to try to help others...great. If it's just a forum for ridicule and ego wars then I don't think it's for me. Thanks to all that have given their best and knowledgeable advice. I guess I'll wait to see what this post brings.

 

a doubled up tji.. wooden i joist does not classify as a header for a garage door.. it works for a stair well opening and even still it typically would need a bearing wall underneath it. tji's arent rated for what you plan on doing you need either a glulam, steel beam or 2ply even 3py lvl

 

Jeez folks. I didn't mean to start an on-line war here. Joe, This is not a "make-believe" header. My first post was my very first post on this site and perhaps I didn't make myself clear enough. I also admitted to being a novice in some aspects of construction. So, I will try to explain exactly what I have and see if this makes more sense. My header is constructed of one 12" I-joist. If that is not the proper terminology then I apologize. What it is is a 12" I-beam construction floor joist. I filled in both sides with plywood, making it a solid 2" thick beam. I then plated that with a standard 2/12 thus creating a solid 3 1/2 by 12" header across my span. I am simply looking for advice. If this site is designed to try to help others...great. If it's just a forum for ridicule and ego wars then I don't think it's for me. Thanks to all that have given their best and knowledgeable advice. I guess I'll wait to see what this post brings.

I'll tell you the truth, and I don't really care who gives me grief.
The fact is, your header would never pass code anywhere.
But that's not what your asking.
IF this is a gable end wall, ergo no rafters overhead, your header will stay there and never sag once everything is sheared (plywooded) together, as you have built one big triangle, the strongest shape known to man.
Rat runs or cat walks or hog troughs will take care of most deflection.
It will work.
But, you should use at least 1 micro instead, because it's just a better product. You probably even need 2 to pass code, but those people want everything way over built anyway.
As far as starting a war, it's a construction thing.
Carpentry is a very competitive sport, and people from 27 years old, that think they're good, to journeymen (some of us 8 times over), that know they're good, take pride in their knowledge and ability, and don't like it when someone comes along and tells them they aren't doing this or that the way they would do it.
It's a little frustrating in a place like this because nobody can win. Somebody just quits posting after awhile when they think they've been beaten.
It's a lot more fun in person when you can actually show them why your way is better.

Anyway, your header is wrong, but it will work if you must.
All the work you put into it, you bet.
I'd use it.

 

First off, I want to give the OPS credit for the creative way you augmented the I joist. You effectively built a composite construction beam, due to the inadequate strength of the existing beam to carry the roof loads.

I have made it clear repeatedly that I am not in the internet design business, however since you have already designed and installed your beam, I will offer a few thoughts. The beam needs to carry the garage roof load, plus any floor loading above (if you have a floor), plus wind load, plus the dead load of the framing and drywall. Since you did not indicate where you live, it is not possible to evaluate the snow load, which is typically the greatest single vertical load on a roof in snow country. Where I live (Massachusetts), current code requires carrying approximately 32 psf for snow load, in addition to floor loading and dead load as previously noted.

The snow load and dead load is probably split about equally between the two walls which you stated were 30 feet apart, however this needs to be verified, because framing techniques can cause the load to be split unevenly. Assuming equal split, you need to calculate the total load on the roof, which depends on the slope of the roof, which you did not mention in your post. You then multiply the effective vertical roof load per square foot by the roof width to come up with the load per foot on your header.

All of this needs to be done for your specific geometry, location and code requirements. However, I did run the approximate numbers which would have applied to a 3:12 roof pitch in Massachusetts, and your header, while creative, would be severely undersized for my location. Under heavy snow load, the header would be subject to failure. Again, I have no idea what your snow load situation is, and I did not look at wind loading, but the analysis suggests that you may wish to consider hiring a professional to evaluate your specific situation so you do not risk failure under severe loading conditions.

 

About all that...
The gable truss, if that's what this garage has (if not, that header is bearing the brunt of everything above it. 2 micros indeed of course or that wall won't last one winter except maybe Florida. Then there's the hurricanes. That header the op made could end up in any state) is designed to carry everything above the plate line. The header only needs to carry itself and a handful of cripples.
That's it.
I have maintained all along that his header will work fine only in my scenario, not yours.

Hey, op: are there any rafters sticking out over the door or not?
Do you know or have you not designed that part yet?