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First time replacing main water shut-off valve

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7.1K views 46 replies 13 participants last post by  Damnyankee  
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#1 ·
I need to replace the main water shut-off valve outside the house. It's the original one from
1995. Every time I replace a faucet or something inside the house, the main valve won't completely shut off the water. There is a very small water flow. But still messy.

In the photo, the blue gate valve is the water shut-off. I want to replace that with a ball valve. The pipe aligned with the valve is some kind of rigid silver/gray metal,

How do I do this? I'll take a guess.

Cut away the entire gate valve assembly at the inlet and outlet ends with a pipe cutter
or angle grinder cut-of wheel.
Then solder in a new ball valve with longer inlet and outlet to fit over the pipe ends.
Does that rigid metal pipe have any flexing that would allow me to pull the pipe end away and slip on the valve body?

Am I on the right track for how to do this repair?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
What the heck is that other rusted gate valve for? It doesn't seem to do anything.

The L-shaped section of pipe on the other side of it going into the ground is PVC.
Is that other rusted valve for irrigation and/or sprinkler system? My sprinkler and irrigation has been broke for years and I will never fix it.
 
Discussion starter · #12 · (Edited)
Yeah, I won't leave that old blue shut-off valve there. It will be removed. To answer Miamicuse question, there is the municipal or city main water shut off valve in the front yard near the street.

I am not sure what that second rusted gate valve is for. Maybe for irrigation/sprinkler which has not been in use for years. I assume that second rusted valve is shut off ?
There is no water leakage or pooling in the yard. But I need to confirm what the second valve is for.

When I get home from work tonight, I'll scrap paint off to see what type of metal it is. I wonder if I could just make the entire 2-valve pipe assembly and attach it to both ends.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Ok. I scraped paint down to bare metal and I attached another photo.

1. Vertical and horizontal pipes are copper
2. Gate valve bodies are brass
3. L-shape pipe going into ground is PVC
4. Couplings on either side of horizontal pipe gate valve have threads wrapped in teflon tape.

I believe horizontal pipe rusted valve, controls water supply to the olive green assembly which has 2 valves for the irrigation and sprinkler systems. Am I correct?

Irrigation and sprinkler systems have been inoperative or disabled for years. I will never have any further use for these.

I'm in no rush to do this. I have to check inspection code, practice soldering, and see what hardware I need. I already
have a MAPP gas kit.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Yes. I have never soldered. Are you talking about using compression fittings with the nut and ferrule (olive)? I have installed those multiple times.

Is it ok to use compression fittings on the main shut-off valve assembly? Does it comply with building code?
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. But I don't think I would ever use a Sharkbyte connector. I will most likely use a compression fitting valve. I've had good results with those.
I just replaced a bathroom sink faucet a few days ago with compression fittings.

A couple of you asked questions. Let me answer these for you.

The olive green colored pipe assembly to the right is for.......if I remember correctly.....both the sprinkler and irrigation systems which have been disabled for years. You can even see 2
dial type shut-off valves. And in case you are wondering, the rusted gate valve on the horizontal copper pipe is in the fully closed position.

Yes, there is a municipal or city shut-off valve in the front yard close to the street. Technically, do-it-yourselfers are not supposed to touch them. The city has a free open the valve/close the valve service so people can do their plumbing repairs. But I know some people open and close the valves anyway.

I'll take some measurements after work tonight. I'll probably post a diagram tonight also.
 
Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Right on MIamicuse and friends. You bring up some good points I have been thinking about. The question is, can I do all of this with just compression fittings? Because if I have to use unions, nipples, couplers...etc...I would probably have to learn soldering. And I would rather not.

I included a diagram of where I would like to make the cuts and attach the cap. This would give any future owner of the house, the option of reinstalling the complete pipe assembly. The idea in the diagram is to cut, cap and back out that rusted valve on the horizontal pipe.

It might be difficult for me to find a compression fitting, nut and ferrule to use for the cap. This might be a specialty item from a plumbing supply store or the Internet. I totally agree with your advice on the compression fitting ball valve.......buy it first.....keep the receipt.........hold it up to the pipe first before installing.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I ordered a compression fitting ball valve with 1 inch diameter inlet and outlet. This is for the house water shut-off location we have been discussing. After I ordered it, I noticed it was standard port and not full port.
Should I have ordered a full port ball valve?

If so, I can return it later for a refund. There was no shipping cost.
 
Discussion starter · #24 · (Edited)
The only gate valves I will end up with is for the washing machine. I do have PEX tubing extending from the manifold to the kitchen through the attic. This was a re-route that resulted from an under slab water leak in 2007. My house is 1251 square feet and single story.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Ok. I didn't forget about you guys. I'm waiting on a full port ball valve with compression fittings I ordered from HD.

(By the way. Let me correct something I said earlier. The PEX tubing re-route from years ago is from manifold to manifold through the attic............not manifold to kitchen.)
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Hello again friends. I'll answer Matt's questions.

The green handle is simply the hose bib ball valve for the garden hose. That green cap is a flow lock to prevent people from stealing water. It comes with a key. I'm replacing the blue handled shut-off valve below it. The plan is to use a 1 Inch diameter full-port ball valve with compression fittings at both ends.

I also need to replace the clothes washer hot and cold gate valves in the house. These are original from 1996. Those appear to just be simple screw-on ones.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
How come the compression fittings won't work for the inline ball valve?

Shark Bite for a main water shut-off valve.......seriously? How long would it last? I've already had a few people say they would not use that option.

But I always try to be open-minded, so I'm listening.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Matt1963 said:
Compression fitting option means that you will have to be able to spread the vertical pipes apart after you cut out the old valve.

If you dig up the main in the ground you might be able to achieve that.

I personally, like I said before, would cut it up and sweat it together but shark bite fitting are approved, plumbers use them all of the time and I will have to say I don't hear about them failing.

For DIYer's there very useful.

I recently used one of those slip couplings in a wall (gate valve stem had broken) because the home owner didn't want to open their freshly remodeled wall.
Click to expand...
Matt1963 said:
Compression fitting option means that you will have to be able to spread the vertical pipes apart after you cut out the old valve.

If you dig up the main in the ground you might be able to achieve that.

I personally, like I said before, would cut it up and sweat it together but shark bite fitting are approved, plumbers use them all of the time and I will have to say I don't hear about them failing.

For DIYer's there very useful.

I recently used one of those slip couplings in a wall (gate valve stem had broken) because the home owner didn't want to open their freshly remodeled wall.
Click to expand...
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
I wanted to get this done this week. But my truck is in the transmission shop for warranty repairs. So I have no transportation to the hardware store right now. I dug up the path of the water line underground, and I believe I can flex the pipe enough to insert the compression fitting ball valve inline. The horizontal pipe underground does not have the weight of the soil on it now.

This will be done before year end or earlier.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
I finally replaced the main house water shut-off valve yesterday. Photo is attached. I incorporated soldering with the compression fitting shut-off valve. This is the first time I used soldering for a plumbing repair. I did practice soldering on and off for 2 weeks.

One thing concerns me. Notice that horizontal section of pipe extending from the hose bib through the wall of the house is flexed slightly upward. I wonder if that puts stress on the pipe. The end result is that this contraption does work and it doesn't leak at this time. Would it pass inspection code? I don't know. I'm not satisfied with my work. But this was my first time. I guess this was lesson 1.

Let me know what you think. I don't want anyone to think I didn't appreciate their help because I waited so long.
If I ever have to redo this, I will build a complete 'L- shaped' assembly for one-piece fitment. No compression fittings either. All copper sweating.
 
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