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Felt Paper and Fiber Cement Siding

21K views 29 replies 7 participants last post by  Gary in WA  
#1 ·
I am planning to replace the siding on the front of my house with fiber cement siding (Certainteed Random Square Shingles). Both Certainteed and James Hardie recommend using a Tyvek type house wrap. My preference would be to use 30# felt paper instead of the housewrap. Are there any potential problems or issues with using felt paper instead of house wrap?

Thanks in advance.

Greg~
 
#4 ·
Felt is cheaper, and if water does get behind the siding then there will be mold that follows because the paper does not breath as well as the house wrap. You are putting a cement siding on, which is a premium product, and it will last for many years. Do you really want to put a cheaper underlayment on and take the chance of having to tear off all your siding in the future because the felt wouldn't breath right. Spend the extra money on the house wrap. It is more efficient at breathing and holding water away from your framing. Always overlap your housewrap 4 -6 inches and use the tape for housewrap and tape EVERY seam. I hope this was helpful and if it wasn't, let me know...

http://www.handymanhill.com
 
#6 ·
Thanks for your reply Stephen. My consideration of using felt paper is not because it is less expensive but because I believe it would do a better job of keeping water out. If I were to use the housewrap I would tape all of the seams but what about all the holes created by attaching the wrap and nailing the siding? I would think that water could seep right through those holes to the sheathing, whereas with the felt they would be sealed up. That being said, one of the good things about the shingle panels is that there won't be any exposed butt joints like with lap siding so potential water penetration points on the area that I am re-siding is pretty much limited to where the panels will butt up to the corner trim and window trim.

Thanks again.

Greg~
 
#8 ·
75 percent of jobs I have uncovered with a paper have had surface mold. I have uncovered it under stucco, under brick, and under hardwood floors and in most cases there was surface mold do to moisture. Water is always going to get back there, if not water then it will be moisture, the house wrap breathes and will drive the moisture out the felt paper will not. As for nail holes, I always blind nail siding so that there is no nails showing if you do face nail you can caulk the nails. In my experience home owners use felt paper and professionals use house wrap. Ask Mike Holmes. I hope this was helpful.

HTTP://WWW.HandymanHill.com
 
#10 ·
75 percent of jobs I have uncovered with a paper have had surface mold. I have uncovered it under stucco, under brick, and under hardwood floors and in most cases there was surface mold do to moisture. Water is always going to get back there, if not water then it will be moisture, the house wrap breathes and will drive the moisture out the felt paper will not. As for nail holes, I always blind nail siding so that there is no nails showing if you do face nail you can caulk the nails. In my experience home owners use felt paper and professionals use house wrap. Ask Mike Holmes. I hope this was helpful.

HTTP://WWW.HandymanHill.com
Quoting Mike Holmes? Really?
Have you seen some of the crap he's done?
 
#9 · (Edited)
with new energy codes coming up,it's eventually going to be necessary to tape all seams in the wrb,felt to my knowledge can't be [unless somebody now has a compatible seam tape

Hardie now has their own wrap that is engineered to the climate zone you live in

i don't argue wrb type,just make sure it's a non perforated one and is installed correctly
 
#11 ·
tomstruble said:
with new energy codes coming up,it's eventually going to be necessary to tape all seams in the wrb,felt to my knowledge can't be [unless somebody now has a compatible seam tape

Hardie now has their own wrap that is engineered to the climate zone you live in

i don't argue wrb type,just make sure it's a non perforated one and is installed correctly
I agree whole heartedly. I have just found the house wrap to be a better product in my opinion that's all I was trying to say.
 
#13 ·
Ron6519 said:
Quoting Mike Holmes? Really?
Have you seen some of the crap he's done?
I actually have not seen some of the crap he has done. If you would please send me a link to some of it. Not that I don't believe you but I have to see things for myself. I just graduated college a few years back and started a company with my brother and have seen a lot and done a lot, but I also realized I don't know everything. I just tell people what I have found in my experience. I hope we are not on bad terms...
 
#23 · (Edited)
Back in the mid 90’s the 4-5 year run of LP replacement began.

My company tore off and replaced at least a hundred of these LP jobs. Time and time again when we removed the siding the houses covered in Tyvek and other house wraps were soaked behind the wrap.

Were there improper flashing details or bad installation, sometimes. There were also many walls of straight siding with no penetrations (other than nails) that were soaked as well. Why is this?

The houses we did that used felt didn’t have these issues. Any wet sheathing behind the felt we found all could be traced to an installation issue.

At the time I also was using Tyvek. I switched from felt primarily because of ease of installation and guarantees by the reps that Tyvek was a quality product suitable for our region.

After seeing all of these soaked Tyvek walls and knowing that I have few years worth of my jobs covered in Tyvek was alarming to say the least. When confronting the reps with these concerns I’m told “Tyvek is only a vapor barrier not a moister barrier” WTF. There suggestion was to switch to there newest product Typar.

At the time probably 25% of my jobs were Vinyl which as most know (contractors anyway) is far from a water tight product. I lost sleep over this thinking that scores of vinyl/Tyvek houses with my name on them are rotting away. I ran a few jobs with Typar but at that point lost all confidence with DuPont and went back to felt and over the course of the next few years “every“ local contractor I know did too.

Felt has worked fine for the last hundred years no reason to think it wont for the next.

Was this a regional thing? I don‘t know, maybe, probably, hopefully, Coastal Oregon and Washington have a unique climate and it pretty much stays wet for a good chunk of the year.

Does Tyvek have it's place? Sure, just not on my jobs.
 
#24 ·
kwikfishron said:
Back in the mid 90’s the 4-5 year run of LP replacement began.

My company tore off and replaced at least a hundred of these LP jobs. Time and time again when we removed the siding the houses covered in Tyvek and other house wraps were soaked behind the wrap.

Were there improper flashing details or bad installation, sometimes. There were also many walls of straight siding with no penetrations that were soaked as well. Why is this?

The houses we did that used felt didn’t have these issues. Any wet sheathing behind the felt we found all could be traced to an installation issue.

At the time I also was using Tyvek. I switched from felt primarily because of ease of installation and guarantees by the reps that Tyvek was a quality product suitable for our region.

After seeing all of these soaked Tyvek walls and knowing that I have few years worth of my jobs covered in Tyvek was alarming to say the least. When confronting the reps with these concerns I’m told “Tyvek is only a vapor barrier not a moister barrier” WTF. There suggestion was to switch to there newest product Typar.

At the time probably 25% of my jobs were Vinyl which as most know (contractors anyway) is far from a water tight product. I lost sleep over this thinking that scores of vinyl/Tyvek houses with my name on them are rotting away. I ran a few jobs with Typar but at that point lost all confidence with DuPont and went back to felt and over the course of the next few years “every“ local contractor I know did too.

Felt has worked fine for the last hundred years no reason to think it wont for the next.

Was this a regional thing? I don‘t know, maybe, probably, Costal Oregon and Washington have a unique climate and it pretty much stays wet for a good chunk of the year.

Does Tyvek have it's place? Sure, just not on my jobs.
Wow, I will have to do some research, but thank you for the info. I have never heard house wrap only being a vapor barrier. If that is the case then you should never use house wrap as you already have a vapor barrier on the inside of the wall.
 
#29 ·
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Thank you for your understanding,

Gary
 
#30 ·