the drain pipe would freeze and then the pan would overfill.

 

agree.

But the unit was not installed correctly, the original installer is responsible for making it right.

 

Based on what the OP stated how was it not installed correctly?

 

they put it in her carport and now she has nuisance flooding.

 

the op wanted it there.

I had them place the outdoor unit on our carport, which shares the house's concrete slab foundation.

The way the OP talks there is no good place to put it that would allow proper drainage.

 

missed that....thanks


Hey Op ...you made a mistake....sorry I mislead you.:yes::thumbup:

 

A couple of things;
If you made a drip pan then make it alum.or at the vary least galvinized metal.
There is an outdoor electrical heat tape that can be submerged.Its used along the bottom of a gutter and inside the downspout.You could use that to get rid of the water.I have actually used this heat tape several times and it worked great.It is more expensive than normal heat tape.
Since its a heap pump you should already have pump up legs underneath it.Usually 12 " legs.

 

thanks for the replies.

if the drip pan froze, then overflowed....what is the problem that it would cause, other than, more annoying flooding. i would only build the drip pan about 2 inches deep, and it looks like the unit it self has a 2-3 inch base (or more) before anything inside it would be sitting in water...so if drip pan froze....what would be the problem.

i live near fort worth texas, it rarely freezes, however, the exterior unit floods the carport all the time when the heat is on. so if it froze occasionally, but prevented the flooding carport, most of the time....where would i be going wrong...

the installer actually chose the location, i said it was fine, with no knowledge of the condensation. sorry to mislead with me saying "i had them place it there." they chose it as the first option, i said ok.

legs on the bottom? 12" legs? i dont see them, are they hidden underneath? why do they have legs?

and im a he....not a she....what gave you the impression im a she.

thanks again.

 

The coils would be crushed by the ice. And then you would need a new coil, and it wouldn't be covered under any warranty.

 

The coils would be crushed by the ice. And then you would need a new coil, and it wouldn't be covered under any warranty.

So your saying all the coils lay in the bottom 2 inches of the unit?

i dont see any thing that would be sitting in the ice though...

however, if your saying the ice would build up...and up...and up, then wouldnt that be an issue with or without a drain pan....the unit sits flat on the concrete with no cut outs/drain holes in the plastic on the sides of the bottom for water to drain away, it just seeps from under the unit....wouldnt that just be an issue with ice build up?

last winter the thing built up ice about an inch thick around the bottom of it, and thats just around the outside of the unit, the inside had to have been worse....so i would say the whole ice build up thing would be a void argument....wouldnt it? (well besides the pan filling up and freezing, which would then cause the main problem of water/ice on the carport to come back to haunt me, but only during those extremely cold days)

i dont care about warranties, however, how would it not be covered....the pan could simply be removed.....what proof would there be that a drip pan existed to cause the issue.....

 

Heat pumps are suppose to be on pump ups to aid the water in draining out and not building up ice inside of it.

There are drain holes in the bottom of the heat pump.

Its not hard to figure out that something prevented drainage. Are you going to thaw the ice when the heat pump quits working when its real cold outside and quickly remove the pan so the tech doesn't see it.

The coil will cost of the coil alone will be 1/3 to over 2/3s of the heat pump. Plus labor and incidental cost.

 

Heat pumps are suppose to be on pump ups to aid the water in draining out and not building up ice inside of it.

There are drain holes in the bottom of the heat pump.

Its not hard to figure out that something prevented drainage. Are you going to thaw the ice when the heat pump quits working when its real cold outside and quickly remove the pan so the tech doesn't see it.

The coil will cost of the coil alone will be 1/3 to over 2/3s of the heat pump. Plus labor and incidental cost.

There are no pump ups (which i presume you mean some kind of legs that lift the unit off the ground a little bit) installed on my unit, or at least as far as i can tell.

I didnt say there werent drain holes on the bottom of the heat pump, i said there werent any drain holes around the sides of the bottom of the unit (which would allow the condensation to drain away from the unit.) My unit is sitting directly on the slab, as in the only thing allowing the condensation to drain away right now is 1) the fact that the concrete slab is somewhat porous and not level and 2) there is a imperfect, paper thin separation between the concrete and the bottom of the unit, which is due to the fact of the concrete having a brushed texture and not a smooth, polished texture. (however in freezing weather it doesnt drain away)

Yes, it (the drip pan)could easily be removed...within the amount of time it would take a tech to get to my place which is hours from anywhere, and theres only like one a/c installer that would even come out this far and would need a few days notice....however, again, i do not believe in the idea in warranties, would never and have never taken part in buying or using a warranty, and dont plan to, plus, i think not slipping and breaking a bone (or knocking myself out) on my carport is a little more important than a warranty.....and the cost of an entire replacement unit if need be.

but anyways, i understand what you mean by freezing up and the coil freezing, however, i do not see the difference in the unit sitting in a frozen 1-2" deep drip pan vs. there being 1-2" thick sheet of ice around the unit and presumably inside the unit (because how would it not be frozen inside that much if its frozen outside that much).

now with all of this said, it would probably be best to have the unit sit on either the pump up legs (if this unit has them hidden somewhere) or on some concrete blocks inside the drip pan....keeping the unit out of the drip pan, but allowing the condensation to fall down into the drip pan....good/bad idea??

not trying to be a smarty pants, im simply trying to figure this out....and understand anyones opinions they have shared...as in, dont get offended if i question your suggestion....thats how a problem is solved. (just thought i would say this because i always seem to offend everyone (in forums) by asking them to explain themselves).

 

oh and this is my heat pump

http://www.trane.com/Residential/Products/Heat-Pumps/XL20i-Heat-Pumps

 

The installers should have left you with a home owners manual.In that little book it would show that "pump ups" are reccomended.If you look around you will find them on most heat pumps.You will not find them on a/c units.
Your idea of having a pan underneath the pump ups is perfectly acceptable and in your case probably a good idea .The only reason that they did not install the pump ups was to save the cost of these items.P.S. they are not expensive but if one cuts corners this is something one is apt to see eliminated.
It would be a real good idea to have the charge checked to make sure that isn't adding to the condensate one would normally expect.

 

ok. thats what i thought.

i just looked up pump ups/snowlegs..(finally)..and then found the installer manual for my unit online, it has some as an optional accessory.

what kind of work is involved when installing snow legs? would the unit need to be completely disconnected and lifted up, tilted? i will have the installer do it, i was just wondering. because if they are going to have to come out and disconnect it all, i might as well have them slide it off the carport onto the ground (2 feet away) of course on one of those slabs made for the outdoor units (with the snow legs and drip pan under it.)

kind of skeptical that they even know what they are, or that they exist...they are very professional people though...

 

It all depends on how the lines have been run.They would have to lift the unit up at least the 12 inches without kinking the copper refrigerant lines.
To move the unit they would have to pump the unit down,make some alterations to the lines.
One man can't do it by himself so he would need a helper and 3-4 hours labor,possibly a new electrical whip, brazing of some copper fittings and maybe a couple oz of refrigerant plus the new pad and the pump ups.

 

The difference between being just on the concrete and sitting in a pan. Is that on the concrete the water runs away a little before freezing, as you see of it wouldn't have ice over such a large area. In a pan, it won't have any where to run to and would just freeze in a much smaller area.

A pan with pump ups supporting the unit, will allow several gallons to collect before over flowing.

 

in a pan with a drain line, it would have some where to go....down the drain line....

once the ice has formed about 1-2" thick around the bottom of the unit, THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE sitting on the slab, or in a pan.....period. if you think there is, i would like a little more of an explanation of to why it is different. the one you provided doesnt explain anything, at all, because once it builds up on the slab.....it doesnt have anywhere to go, contradicting your statement. however, if you mean it has somewhere else to go before it freezes.....then how is that different then being in the pan (which too, has somewhere else to go)?

maybe i just completely misunderstand your reasoning?

 

slide a 2" lipped aluminum pan under it with a 3/4 FMP connection a PVC it away,or just the pan and let it evaporate with the day...ice build up coils busting please what is this the Titanic don't scare the guy... anything above 32.1F in the car port the ICE will melt:wink:...how about this park your car so the exhuast blows into the condenser pan and melts the ice as you warm it up going out for the day....going green or what:whistling2: if the sun swings on the car port in the winter the solar heat will melt it...for water to go from 32F water to 32F ice...my calculations... 20F with a wind chill of 25MPH in Texas?the pan is the best deal even plastic if you can find one and definitly slide something under the condenser to get it off the slab.HD/LOWES

 

thanks, this was my initial thoughts on the issue. i mean its texas....this year i only saw water freeze once. However, the carport has an awning, and is on the north side of the house, so there is only sun in the morning that hits the unit. its just that last year (or the year before) it froze a lot, thats when i saw the ice build up on the slab.

its been 28F here, all night before, water still didnt freeze....

i bet if i use a black poly pan (or even just paint a metal one black) for the drip pan.....i would even have a lot better chance of it not freezing.

 

Guess you never seen the damage the ice does to a heat pump that isn't set up above the ground or its pad. It crushes the lower tubes of the coil.

 

869873...for water to go from 32F water to 32F ice...my calculations... 20F with a wind chill of 25MPH in Texas?

Your calculations are off.

 

that was just an guess... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNx99zZwfoE&NR=1&feature=endscreen when the defrost cycle doesn't kick in and the ice is so thick you can't hear the compressor running in the heating mode...now that is ice...

 

See a fair number like that every year.

 

I see all the posters have an idea of a drip pan with a drain line.

since this unit is outside on a cncrete pad, is there any reason you couldn't cut a small channel in the concrete leading to the yard ( and possibly an underground piece of PVC or something leading away from the slab?

 

anythings possible...

 

Drill a hole in the slab and make a drain.