Are you siding over the T1-11 when you are done?

 

No, it will just be the siding and then trim...with no sheathing underneath. I will have to cut the siding back a couple of inches to get the old window out, and then put the new window in.

 

Anyone? I am assuming the main concern will be getting the metal behind the existing siding and out to daylight. I would prefer to not have the cap above the trim but I want to do this correctly.

 

you will have to get the drip cap in place before the trim goes on. this allows you access up behind the siding from below- just cut the drip to size and slide it up from below(make sure all nails are clear to allow the drip to slide up till it sits against underside of cut siding and use a quality caulk between underside of siding and top of drip to squish it in). the drip at this stage just hangs in place mooshed into your caulk until you get the window trimmed out butting the trim up to the underside of the drip pressing it in place and not allowing any further movement.

 

Ok, so you would recommend the drip cap over the head trim.

I may be confused here, but if I caulk the bottom of the siding to the drip cap wouldn't effectively be trapping the water and rendering the drip cap useless?

 

bump for more responses

 

bump...after looking around my neighborhood I cannot see a single home with drip caps on their windows. Not saying it's right, but it makes me question their necessity.

 

if you were to pull the trim off of the top of those windows the T 1-11 behind the trim would be water softened most likely. caulking is the drip cap in that scenario and caulking fails/cracks depending on conditions.

 

Thanks for the insight. I want to use a drip cap so I am going to try to carefully cut the siding without disturbing the felt paper behind it, then try to attach the drip cap to the studs and lay the felt over it. The problem I am having is finding a drip cap at a local store that has the correct dimensions for what I need.

 

Did you find any flashing? I have used roof-to-wall flashing before when in a pinch. Use a 2x for straight, clean bends (cut to width before bending). Don't forget the end dams, page 8. And 2 pieces of flash, one over trim, one under trim- over window frame, pp. 10; http://www.mtcc1170.com/images/BCRainScreen.pdf

Gary

 

I did not find any flashing yet, but I think I will have to get creative as you mentioned. Thanks for that info, it's helpful.

 

Here are some photos of what I did over a door. The L flash angled down over the top trim keeps everything dry, no caulk needed. I put spacers under the top trim to nail it in place. The downward pressure from the flash will hold the top piece in place even without fasteners.

The downside is its a lot more work and you need a track saw to cut the downward angles in the siding. Inserting L flash under t-11 is a pain if its already nailed tight in the work area.

With a nail fin on the top edge of a window frame, I have never seen the need for an upper drip cap, at least for T-11 siding.