I would pose this question on the flooring board where Angus, BudCline or Jazzman will give you a good answer.

I know that the hardiboard is a good deal lighter and less prone to breaking. But many of the old time installers refuse to change their ways and stay with the bulkier harder product.

Hardiboard is under constant threat as new, but pricier options like ditra and a hardiboard look alike that you can carry at least 3 pieces with one hand.

For the differences, which was you question though, check with the flooring side.

 

They are both cementitious boards: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cement_board

Cement board (Glass-Mesh re-inforced Cement). Composition:
PermaBase® BRAND Cement Board is a rigid substrate made of Portland cement, aggregate and glass mesh.
Durock cement board is formed in a continuous process of aggregated portland cement slurry with polymer-coated, glass-fiber mesh completely encompassing edges, back and front surfaces.

http://www.usg.com/navigate.do?reso...g_Content/usg.com/web_files/products/prod_details/DUROCK_Brand_Cement_Board.htm
http://www.nationalgypsum.com/products/product45.aspx​

Hardie board (Fiber-re-inforced-cement). Composition: 90% Portland cement and ground sand. HardieBacker™ board contains no asbestos, glass mesh, formaldehyde, or gypsum.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/products_backerboard_halfInch.shtml​

 

They can be used interchangeably, based on installer preference. I'm a fan of good old wonderboard/Durarock personally.

 

They can be used interchangeably, based on installer preference. I'm a fan of good old wonderboard/Durarock personally.

Same here. I find the Hardiebacker fiber-cement too brittle. I prefer Durock or Perma-base. Current tile jobs: one sunroom addition, 3 bathroom remodels, and building a day-spa/salon (showers and tile floors) = all Perma-base installations, no hardie backer.

 

I usually end up with Hardi because of availability. But overall, it really doesn't matter too much because AFTER YOU WATERPROOF the CBU, you're good to go anyway. :whistling2:

 

Thanks all I kind of thought I was doing it right but the kid a HD kept insisting that everyone uses hardy backer for their tile projects so I thought I would ask.I know I shold have known better comming from HD :no:

 

You could use DensShield/DensGuard (same stuff) instead. It will make the waterproofing quicker and easier. Cause you are going to waterproof, right?

 

oh yes I got plenty of membrane to cover it from top to bottom. Like I said I was in HD and was looking at the hardy and the other cement boards and this kid/salesperson came up and started telling I was using the wrong stuff.He said it enough that I was kind of doubting myself and what I had already done so I just wanted to get a clarification before I went and did anymore.I waterproof the whole shower and behind the sink and even around where the supply line comes in for the toilet then tile ,grout and seal all, that may be a bit overkill but when I am done I don't worry Thanks

 

Backer boards

I live in Alaska/cold wet climate... in the process of redoing a bathroom due to mold problems (created by old construction problems. I have reviewed many of the backer boards and "tilemasterga" videos on YouTube (masterfully detailed but long) and am still wondering what backer board I should use in AK. Then it occurred to me if the problem would be solved by painting Hardie Backer on all sides with a membrane that is used for the joints to solve the mold/moisture problems associated with this otherwise very easy to work with and strong product. I would like your comments on the subject and any others below.... thanks in advance.

I have provided my thoughts, research, and comments from professionals and big box stores...

Dens Shield: pro's - built in moisture & mold barrier, best rated for moisture, includes fiberglass, easy to cut; con's (what I wanted to use but no one sells in Alaska, wonder how it holds up in cold climates)

Durock: pro's - strongest, cement based, fiberglass, water resistant, no swell; con's - edges can crumble when cut, told by contractor that can crack down the road, saw a comment on internet that freeze/warm cycles can lead to this (this is my hesitation for using this)

Permabase: pro's - cement based, fiberglass, edges with fiberglass (less crumble), manufacturer claims lowest water absorption; con's - difficult to cut like all cement boards (if my solution above for hardie backer is not a good one I will likely go with this one or durock)

Wonderboard: pro's - cement, water resistant, fiberglass; con's - everyone states that crumbles

Hardie backer: pro's - strong, easy to cut; con's - no fiberglass so water permeable and requires visqueen (this is the problem I encountered when I took it out it was moldy and crumbled to say the least), contractor comment on internet suggested leaving it outside and watch it delaminate while others swear by it

Green board: pro's - upscale water resistant dry wall; con's - thing of the past, no one recommends as backer board, could use in rest of bathroom

 

Between the OP and reply #9, the same basic product may have been called at least by half dozen different names.

And I thought figuring taxes was confusing until I read this.

Is it a chop saw or a miter saw. Is it a saber saw or a jig saw.

 

A miter saw can replace a chop saw...but a chop saw can't replace a miter. (Chop saw - straight up and down cutting a square end...miter saw- cutting up and down both at a square end and at an angle).

As to the same basic product being called by different names, it is kind of like tar paper, roofing felt, roofing underlayment....or Grace's, Weatherlock, ice and water, Ice and Water Armour, etc. ron

 

chop saw is simply slang for a mitre saw... a compound mitre saw can bevel one way.. a dual compound mitre saw bevels bouth ways...

 

I am putting slate ledge stone around my fireplace up to ceiling. Do I need cement board or use what the installer has put up being 1/2 inch CT-Easi-lite? It looks like cement inside!

 

I was looking at backer board because I plan to rework the shower in our master sometime this spring. I found Durarock actual thickness of 1/2 inch where others they had locally were just a hair under. I think I'm going with the 1/2 because I will be mudding it into 1/2 inch drywall.

 

@juliayn you are posting to a 12 year old thread. You may want to start your own so you can get personalized answers. Not that Mkes's response was not correct. He is spot on.

 

Good catch, lol.