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deck screw selection

8.4K views 21 replies 10 participants last post by  jeffnc  
#1 ·
I will be using deck screws to attach my wood deck (2X4s) to wood beams (2X6s) and I have some questions about selecting deck screws.

(1) There are "flat head" deck screws and "bugle head" deck screws. I went to the box store and looked at one vs the other. The look the same to me as far as the front and back of the screw heads, what am I missing?

(2) I see typically 2-1/2" and 3" lengths. Give that I am using a 2X4 deck instead of the typical 5/4 decking, a 2-1.2" will give a 1" penetration into the joist where as a 3" will go 1.5" deep. Is 3" a better choice in this case?

(3) Due to being in south Florida with rain and humidity, and the fact that I am a few miles from the ocean, and the deck may be exposed to water occasionally since it is over a fish pond, I will be using SS deck screws. I noticed there are 305, 306 and 316 SS and 316 being the most expensive. Is 316 the best in terms of corrosive resistance? I shall mentioned that I used some GPK exterior construction screws rated for PT lumber and 2 months later the screws were not recognizable.
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
The problem with coated deck screws is when you drive them in with an impact the head's coating gets partially removed. Then whenever it rains (which is almost every day where I am) water sits on the screw heads constantly and I don't know what metal is under the coating. To get maximum corrosion protection I am going with SS especially since these coated deck screws are only rated for ACQ treated lumber I don't know how it will do with copper azole treatment lumber at higher concentration.
 
#8 ·
I don't want to use nails for multiple reasons, one of them is not being able to remove them without destroying the decking. In my experience with shooting ring shank nails to fasten 5/8 to 3/4 wood pickets to the horizontal rails, to date I have not been able to remove one picket whole by removing the nails first. Usually the pickets break first, or the process of trying to dig under the nail heads destroys the material around the heads.

But more importantly if I need to remove one piece of deck for replacement, screws will allow me to back it out. I cannot use a pry bar due to the presence of joist tape on the joists.
 
#14 ·
Size matters. #10 if possible, #9 is ok. #8 are very common because they cost less, but they are thinner.

The kind with the little nubs under the head tend to self-bore a little better, bugle head can split the board at the last few turns.
I think I will be using #10. I thought bugle heads countersink better because of the concave on the underside of the head like drywall screws but I looked at one bugle head next to another one with "flat head" and I can't tell the difference side by side. Hence I asked what the difference is.

The one I am considering is CAMO 3 in. #10 316 Stainless Steel Premium Star Drive Bugle-Head Deck Screws (350-Count)

CAMO 3 in. #10 316 Stainless Steel Premium Star Drive Bugle-Head Deck Screws (350-Count) 0348174S - The Home Depot
 
#11 ·
Be aware, SS screws are weak at the head and you will cam out really easily. One cam out and the screw is toast. Choose SS strength and head design well.

Another thought is to use Trex screws with T-20 heads. They don't cam out easily.

 
#15 ·
I hate nails for the most part, and use screws for almost everything. Definitely for this.

3" is the right length, but the problem I see with the screws you picked is that the bare shank isn't quite long enough for screwing in 2x material. What you really want is something that looks like this.


Or at least has a counter thread in the shank area, like this.


Alternatively I guess you could predrill a hole a little bigger than usual in the plank only, so your screw threads don't catch on in the plank.

The reason for this is that if the threads are stuck on both pieces of wood, the screw won't pull the plank tight. You can never get two pieces of wood really tight if the threads are catching in the top piece.
 
#16 ·
This is another option from Amazon. 316 stainless steel marine grade 3" deck screws.

 
#21 ·
With 2x decking I would use 3” screws. The unthreaded shank is long enough to virtually go through the deck boards. That lets the screws pull the decking down tight.