What cable re you trying to run? Usually cable is needs to be 1/2 way in the wall, not just running under the plater or drywall. Around here If it is just notched into the studs you need metal plates over it at each stud.

 

Romex, Cat-6 and RG6. I'm planning on drilling through the middle of the studs with a flexible extension if required. 1 1/4'' in to the studs where I can or kick plates otherwise.

How much wall I take off will impact how far apart I can keep the Romex and Cat-6/RG6 - I'd like to keep them apart at least a foot, so at the top and bottom of my channel or holes.

 

Not a great plan for many reasons. Far better to run the wires under the house and then up or dropped down from the attic through the wall.
I've also removed the baseboard, cut out the drywall just below where the top of the base will fall, then drilled in the middle of the studs and pulled the wires.
There is no need for the Cat-6 and RG6 to be that far apart, just use shealded wire a few inches is enough as long as they do not touch.
No way will you have enough control where the hole is with an extention drill.

 

Agree with Joe if the room has a basement run it under the floor. If it has an attic run it over the room and back down. If the room has neither run it under the baseboard.

 

Thank you. The attic or crawl-space would be my first two choices, but unfortunately I have neither (basement room over concrete slab foundation).

I have seen it run under the baseboard, but I was concerned I wouldn't be able to get enough separation between the romex and Cat-6/RG6. Would I even be able to get a few inches between my bored holes in that case?

When you describe cutting out the drywall (in my case plaster) just below the top of the baseboard, are you cutting a continuous channel along the perimeter of the room or are you cutting holes next to every stud? Would I want to keep the plaster over the studs to support the baseboard, or can I just use spacers?

 

I personally would not worry about the proximity . In a DataCenter I manage we have racks of equipment feed with 4 30 AMPs 3 phase current and perhaps 80 cat 6 cables. obviously it all runs in very close proximity, parallels and crosses . Unless a cat 6 cable is creased or improperly terminated to all works fine. I wouldn't worry about the proximity

 

Thanks Jim. Is there any lower-bound? For example, I wouldn't want to put them all through the same bored holes through studs all the way around, would I?

 

Use a 5" hole saw and drill centered on each stud. Drill holes thru studs and run wire. Secure the cut out plug with 2 screws and patch.

 

Thank you for the suggestion... sounds pretty clean.

 

No way would I be using a hole saw for this job.
#1, You would then be drilling the holes in the studs at an angle and making it far harder to pull the wire, and may even end up damaging the outside insulation.
#2, Unless you used a carbide grit hole saw the plasters going to distroy it after the first hole.
You make the hole then how to you get the plug you cut out if there's a screw in it with out breaking it?

 

2 more cents, forget the flex drill extension, sounds like a knuckle buster. Get a hold of right angle drill. I like to run horizontal wires where future fasteners
will not be. So cut out the lower 6" of wall board. Drill your holes in the center of 6". Now when you replace the drywall you will have one seam to repair and your screws will be on either side of the wire. If you want 2 sets of holes add a couple inches and cut at 8 instead of 6 etc.. you get the idea

 

Thanks for the continued comments and discussion.

To throw one more thing in the mix, I just had dinner with a handy family member who suggested at my point to just take down the whole ceiling. The ceiling is a mix of drywall and plaster on blueboard. I have a multimaster I can use to cut the ceiling on the ends.

If I did that, I'd also be able to put in sound proofing installation (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roxul-Sa...proofing-Stone-Wool-Insulation-12-Roll-RXSS31525/202531875?N=5yc1vZasbsZ1z0uu2v) and a resilient channel above the ceiling, which would be very nice for this room (bedroom in a duplex with a kitchen above).

If I did that, I'd be drilling from between the joists through the top plates. Thanks for the suggestion on the right-angle drill - my tool library has a couple in stock, I'll try it out.

Any considerations about that route?

 

Thanks for the discussion... I've decided to move forward by removing the ceiling. It'll be very advantageous to be able to soundproof.

I've started taking down the center of the ceiling, using a retractable utility knife to score the plaster near the edge of the room. The ceiling is mostly the same plaster on blue board as the walls. The edges have a metal corner bead.

What I'd like to know is how should I remove the edges of the ceiling? Should I cut through the corner bead? If so, what do I use to do it? How can I get the whole ceiling down without damaging the top of the walls?

Thanks