The picture looks good. Tell us about your actual installation.
Did you pull a new cable? The 120 volt cable would be only two wires. The 240 cable needs to be 3 wires.

 

I pulled a new 6/3 with ground, installed a 50amp GFCI breaker in the panel, and a disconnect near the tub as required by code.

 

Take the wires off of the lugs to test for continuity. Connected to the tub can give you feedback thru the tub.

 

I did take the wires loose and checked them. No continuity between the wires. Still got a connection between the neutral and line 1.

 

It doesn't appear the tub was set up for 120v at all. Showing us your actual wiring block will help. Can't imagine a hot tub running on 120v anyway, at least not efficiently.

 

The tub came prewired as a 120v, with a power cord attached. I followed the directions in the manual to take the existing plug off, and rewire as a 240/120 volt. BTW, I am a state licensed electrician and I have about 30 years experience, but I can't figure out what's going on with this thing. ??

 

Remove the bond between the neutral and ground. That is probably causing the GFCI to trip.

 

I can not imagine that the picture you show with all of the wires going to the same lug could ever possibly be correct.

What is up with that?

Andy.

 

show with all of the wires going to the same lug

That does look odd. That is why I asked for a picture of HIS block.

 

Classic problems is not connecting the gfci correctly.

 

Check each terminal on the hot tub to ground with your ohm-meter. ( with your supply wires disconnected.)

Everything should read OL, except the bond wire.

Sounds like you have a short to ground somewhere inside the spa

 

You will get continuity on the load side going thru the motor, controls etc. I like Joe's response to isolate the neutrals and grounds.

What brand and model is the tub.

 

You should try asking here.

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Andy.

 

That's for us electricians only....

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He said he was an electrician. 30 years experience.

Andy.

 

Didn't see that (or expect it) (or believe it...)

As for the hot tub, did you change the dip switchs and jumpers as needed? Try the breaker with the 2 hots off the spa?

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Also you sure it needs a neutral? Line 1 might be neutral or hot. Seen that before

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He pulled 6/3 and installed GFCI breaker. The drawing provided shows neutral ground bond in the tub panel. That bond needs to be removed or the neutral current be messed up and trip the GFCI.

 

He pulled 6/3 and installed GFCI breaker. The drawing provided shows neutral ground bond in the tub panel. That bond needs to be removed or the neutral current be messed up and trip the GFCI.

Yeah that's clearly it then. Old eyes on a small screen, I don't even bother to look at most pics.

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Amen to that.

We really need a more clear description of the problem in order to proceed.


Andy.

 

Real electrician and that's not BS?

Your best friend is NEC 110.3(B).

First, disconnect and cap off both hot wires and neutral, and go back and reset the GFCI breaker and see if it holds.

If it does not hold, follow the diagnostic procedure, 110.3(B) to get it to indicate whether it is an overload or GFCI trip. Troubleshoot problem with the cable.

If that holds, then the problem is either in how you wired it (back to 110.3B), or a fault in the tub (dead short, overload or ground fault). Disconnect all tub connections and measure L1-ground, L2-ground and N-ground. All should be infinity. Don't put the megger on it until you first isolate all electronics. But a megger on the heating element may be called for.