Flex pipe is dangerous when it comes to those things. Likes to collect a good bit. What is the discharge side look like outside?

 

It's pretty much a standard plastic vent. I will post a pic shortly.


What I like about flex pipe is the ability to make it fit without cutting any of the rigid pipe. I have a tin snips though, so I suppose it wouldn't be so difficult to do so. I would need to wear heavy gloves to prevent getting cut up of course.


As it stands now, I have been periodically (about 1x /yr) removing the entire vent system and removing the lint buildup. I can do this either by shaking/banging the pipe on the driveway or using a shop-vac to suck it out.

 

They accumulate way more lint, aren't easily cleanable, and can be crushed. Bad combination of factors stacked up against them.

 

The outside vent.

 

I would still hard pipe it and I would put a clean out in the line between the dryer and on the wall.

 

Hard pipe is the best but not always practical. Plastic flex hose/duct is a no-no. The expandable aluminum flexible pipe in the picture should be fine(?)

As far as the outlet is concerned, you could use a flanged adapter that screws to the wall and inserts into the pass through or just install a new hardpipe through the opening and terminate the exterior with a new animal/bird-proof cap (good luck finding one these days).

 

Thanks guys; I can go with the hard pipe. It really shouldn't be a problem. I can probably re-use the two 2ft sections that are connected to the dryer now, as I don't see anything wrong with them.
So far as a animal/bird proof cap, the one i have now does have a flapper inside. I'm not sure if that is what you're talking about or not.
I guess a trip to the local DIY store is in order.

 

The code in NY only allows flex pipe as a short connector from the dryer to a hard pipe that is in close proximity to the appliance.

 

The other thing that is missing in the current setup is that none of the joints are taped. All the joints will need aluminum tape - the good stuff. I believe for a gas dryer vent to be code compliant, the tape has to meet the UL 181 standard that not all aluminum tapes do.

 

Thanks for that info. I was wondering whether I needed additional clamps where the lengths of pipe join, but hadn't thought about tape.
I just checked on HD website. The UL (181) listed tape is so much more expensive than the 'general purpose' but I will use the right one.

 

It looks like I will need some sort of collar or flange to mount to the inside wall and attach to the pipe coming through the wall so that the interior piping is securely attached.
I'm trying to find such a part but don't know what to call it. There was originally something like that, going by the 'shadow' on the wall

 

Use rigid duct all the way through. People use flex because its fast and easy, but rigid is less restrictive and collects less lint (and looks better and not amateur). I don't buy that going full rigid is not possible.

That outdoor exhaust vent has two holes for fixing it to the wall. Better yet, buy a new exhaust vent -- that one looks like it has been taking the UV's for a while - not sure how much life it has left. (should be four holes anyways IMHO.) Caulk perimeter after fastening.

Buy a crimper for joining ducts. Note that there is a right and a wrong way in deciding which piece to crimp. No screws into the ducting.

 

Thanks for the vid;
I never gave those crimps any thought; figured the pipe came that way.
I'm still not clear on how the pipe inside the house connects to the one coming through the wall from the outside vent hood. It is too short to put a clamp or tape the joint.
So I'm thinking that normally that pipe (the one with the hood at the end) should be longer, which would allow proper clamp/tape to the next length of pipe.


I think that going to the DIY store and having a look will help me figure everything out.
If I buy that crimping tool, this will be my only use for it, so I'm going to get a cheap one.


Wondering whether this vent hood will last, or become stuck after a year or so, refusing to open when the dryer is running - just like my kitchen vent flap:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/No-Pest...com/p/No-Pest-Vent-4-in-Low-Profile-Dual-Door-Wall-Vent-in-White-NPVW/207125511


Of course, there's no grease involved here as there is with the kitchen vent.

 

Took another look in the laundry rm.
The wall where the vent goes through has a shadow from a flange, but no screw holes.
Measuring the length of the pipe from the hood, it is 12in. The foundation wall is about 1in thicker than that, so the pipe actually ends before it gets fully inside the house.
Note that this house is nearly 100 years old. I guess no one builds homes with foundation so thick anymore.
I will probably have to buy the vent hood and another length of pipe to use instead of the 12in long one that comes with it. At least if I have some pipe (inside) to work with, I can properly tape the joint.

 

The flexible duct can only be used as a transition from the dryer to the permanent exhaust duct and cannot be longer than 8'. The remainder must be rigid metal duct. Taped joints are not required, just one of the acceptable methods of joining ducts.

One end of round sheetmetal is pre-crimped, you should not need to buy the crimper. It also comes in 5' lengths. I would use 'U' brackets attached to the concrete wall and keep it rigid all the way to the dryer.

 

Can clamps be used to join sections instead of tape?

 

Clamps work fine for flex duct, but aren't very effective for the 'hard pipe'. I recommend just buying the aluminum tape. I you're anything like me, you'll find plenty of uses for the rest of the roll, once you see how well it works. You may never use duct tape again.

 

are you able to remove the vent cover and duct from outside the wall? If so you can install suffice t duct to go through the wall and seal it properly.