I've attached some pics.

 

I've attached some pics.

Usually the doors just lift out of the track/frame like you mentioned unless you got some special kind that has a secret mason way or bracket/locking mechanism that needs removing first. I'm sure there's a way.

You probably already been searching and saw these videos.

another one on a tub like yours.

 

Looks like you have to lift one end of the header enough to get the glass doors out of the bottom guide. They will lift up and out of the top track after that.

Avoid hitting the edges of the glass doors when removing and replacing them. Place on a soft rug or folded thick towel while replacing the rollers. One good knock on the edge can shatter the door.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

How to replace the rollers and fix the sliding doors that are out of alignment/bent track.

 

BTW- buy extra door rollers and hardware before the door company goes out of business or the model changes forever. Make a point to clean the track of soap scum once a month or you'll be doing again real soon.

 

As jmon eluded to....usually the top track is not fastened...just lays on the side track.
If you can unhook the doors then you can lift the track off.
If you can, get some help because once you lift off the track there is nothing to keep the door from falling and breaking except you.

 

I think that block in the middle on bottom gets removed first.

 

Thanks everyone. The problem I'm having is that I can't seem to lift either door high enough to clear the black bottom guide. I've seen videos where the guide is moved (via screw removal) to allow for the doors to be removed, but my bottom guide doesn't have screws. Do they normally use adhesive on the bottom guides if they aren't secured using screws?

 

Thanks everyone. The problem I'm having is that I can't seem to lift either door high enough to clear the black bottom guide.

It appears you have your mind made up on how this should go.
Best of luck to you.

 

Could you post some pics so we can see what you're dealing with?

 

I posted some pics in my first post.

 

Yes, well I for one would like to see more pics of that middle bottom piece from the inside of the shower, since that is the key to getting the doors out.

 

Push both doors to one side. Then using a scraper or screwdriver push the bottom track guide out past the doors so they can swing freely. Some installers used a little silicone to help hold it in place, but with a little effort it will slide. Then you can pop it off the track. It just snaps onto the track. For the top, the wheel screws need to be up near the top of the angled slot to allow enough clearance to lift the door up and off the track. Otherwise, the top of the door frame itself will hit the header. I used a tiny ratchet with either no bit, or sometimes a Phillips#2 to loosen those screws. The bottom track may be held in place with either silicone or butyl tape on the underside.

 

For the top, the wheel screws need to be up near the top of the angled slot to allow enough clearance to lift the door up and off the track. Otherwise, the top of the door frame itself will hit the header.

After looking closely at the header photo, it looks like this is what is happening. Side rails were cut a little too short for the doors, so the wheels were set at the very bottom of the angled slot, and the doors were placed into the header and then the header and doors were placed on the side rails as a unit.

You'll need two people to lift the header from both ends, remove the entire header and doors out of the tub so that the doors can be slid out the ends of the header and replace the worn wheels.

Be sure to install the new wheels in the same location, or the doors will be hitting the bottom rail when you place the header and doors back in place.

Pro tip. Place cardboard between the doors and using masking tape, tape the doors together before removing and before placing the doors back in place. Set everything on thick towels and don't hit any edges with a hard object.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

Really appreciate everyone's comments. I'm going to give your suggestions a try this weekend hopefully. @PaulDay - I'm hoping I don't have to do what you've described, because that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Crossing my fingers I don't, but I appreciate the info if I do!

 

Place two layers of masking tape on the edges of the doors first. A plastic/rubber U-channel over the edges is best, but most people won't have something like that hanging around. This will help prevent breakage if something hits a glass edge.

Once you have the doors removed, you can work on removing the center guide. With it removed, it will make putting the doors back into place easier.

Good luck.

Have a good day.

 

Jmon's second video in post #3 is very similar to how we always installed/serviced these doors with the exception being the order of removal and replacement. I always installed the inside door first, then the outside door second. Your fingers wrapped around the edge of the outside door act as a spacer/cushion to slightly swing the inside door back into the tub or shower as you lift the outside door off of the header, lower slightly into the tub for clearance, and out. Removal is just the opposite: remove/slide track guide out of the way, lift and remove outside door, then the inside.
Good point in his video about not banging them into anything and setting them down on carpet or a cushion.

 

Hi all,

I wanted to provide an update on my post. Originally I thought the bottom guide was not moveable; however, I took a flat head screwdriver and mallet to it, and I was able to slide it down far enough to allow clearance for the doors. After doing that, I was able to remove the doors and get the rollers replaced.

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Thank you so much for providing this update. This was very helpful to me as I had to do exactly the same thing after 5 long days of searching the internet for solutions. Just a Philip screwdriver and a heavy object to hit it did the trick.