Is that post sitting on a post base, if not it's going to rot out.
Use a solid stain not paint, want it smooth then sand first.
First thing that's going to rot out is that post base you made, the end grain is exposed. Grain should have been horizontal not vertical.
Consider installing vinyl cove molding after you stain it to direct water away from it.

 

I wanted to paint it white, to match the rest of the trim on the house. Do you have to sand it first or can you just paint the rough cedar as is?

It's not sitting on a base of any sort, it's simply a cedar box base. The previous post that lasted 20 years had rot at the base I noticed.

 

It was installed wrong needed a post base, yes it needs to be sanded of you want a smooth finish.
Two coats of solid stain and it will look like paint but not peel like paint later on.

 

Thanks. I agree it should've had a base. We're replacing this stupid post because the previous one did rot (at the base) and didn't have a base either.

I was wondering about using a white stain on this. Ideally I wanted to paint it but if I'm forced to use a white stain I suppose that would be the best option at this point. And then have them redo the base so that it's horizontal.

 

Recently, I hard somebody saying that the difference between a paint and a solid color stain is that a solid color stain is self-priming on wood. Maybe an over-simplification, but it makes sense.

 

From the little I've read they basically look the same except with a solid stain you can't choose the different sheen, rather it's more of a matte finish (which is perfect for this application). The solid stains don't need a primer to prevent tannin bleed as they're supposed to be formulated to help with that. They also allow the wood to breathe better, letting moisture escape. The only downside is that solid stain doesn't last as long as paint, therefore would need to be applied more often as a maintenance item.

 

No need to sand it if you're ok with the rough look. Prime with a quality primer, which, in this case will need to be oil to seal in the tannins from the cedar. If you use water based primer it will wick the stains up through the primer and into the finish. So, oil-based primer followed by two topcoats of your favorite latex paint.

And, if you want to stain, again, it should be oil-based to eliminate the chance of wicking the tannins into the finish coats.

 

Thanks. Do you think it's best to leave it rough? (that was my initial plan but everything else is wrapped smooth)

I was curious what you would recommend to fill in the spot where the wood split? I wasn't sure if I should use a minwax (bondo stuff w hardener) or a paintable/stainable caulk?

I guess it depends whether I stain or paint. I'm just not sure which one I want to do yet.

 

CJ, I think the size of the base is just fine. It seems to be proportional to the size of the porch and looks great to me. Tough call on paint over stain. Either is gonna be just fine. If it were me, I would leave it rough for one big reason.......paint or stain seems to stick to a rough surface better than it does to a smooth surface. As you stated before, though, stain is flat and has no sheen to it. Paint can be satin, semi, flat, and in this case a semi-gloss paint may be the best bet for ultimate protection.

 

I appreciate your opinions. Most people seem to like the size of the base so I may just keep it as is. I know he put the "cut" ends of the cedar base on top/bottom instead of left/right.. so I'm hoping if I keep it how it is now it won't wick up too much water from where it was cut and rot..

This pic clarifies what I mean by left/right cuts (wood grain is horizontal)

Not sure how big of a deal it is but I know a couple people said you want the grain to go horizontal on the base to prevent it from rotting.

Also, the trim used here I was thinking of adding or a cove style molding to clean it up and give it a lil bit of a ledge for the water to drip off.

 

Search the internet there are ways to seal the end grain that will keep it from decaying a lot longer. Sealing it will keep the water from wicking up into the fibers.

 

I read that you can apply a water repellent first, then prime and paint. A lot of people said not to do it, but in this application it may make sense since all 4 sides of the wood are not primed.

The issue is I can't get to the end grain on the bottom of the base since it's been installed already..

 

i'd caulk the end grain with a good, paintable caulk. (quad max is paintable in 24 hrs.), use the same caulk on the split in the pic. prime it in oil "bump sand" the rough, parts that are sticking out and slap 2 coats of finish on it to match the rest of the trim. stain is a great idea for all the reasons mentioned but for the sake of consistency and maintenance down the road, just keep it simple. it's a post.

oh, tip for using quad-- keep a rag wet with thinner handy, you'll need it. lay a bead on the surface and smear it in good with your finger. it's pretty sticky but it goes better if you wet your finger with a bit of thinner first then wipe the excess caulk off on the rag. wipe any excess off the surface with a rag also. it can be a messy product to use for a beginner but it's the best in my nsho. and it's not that big of a project.

 

I went into the BM store today and they suggested I don't use any WRP. They were concerned the primer/paint wouldn't adhere as well with it.

They recommended to prime it with their oil-based "Fresh Start" primer. (not the fast dry version). So I will do 1 coat of that, wait a day or 2 and then finish it with 2 topcoats of BM "Ben" exterior paint (also has a primer in it).

I bought a 2 1/2" flat brush as well. I'll probably practice on a scrap piece of cedar to test.

 

I need to paint this cedar on the back of my house as well, under the sliding patio door. He filled in the void using cedar wood and used 2 pieces of wood with the metal coil (same coil we wrapped windows with) for the flashing. Ideally I would have used 1 piece of wood but he used 2.

My question is should I paint this clay (siding color) or white? Notice he used clay caulk.

If I do paint it clay, should I try and paint the white flashing between the two pieces of wood?

I wasn't sure how well the paint would stick to the white metal coil (flashing).

 

Clay.

 

Not sure why that's flashed like that but scuff it with a piece of sandpaper(don't go nuts. Just enough to get some bite.) And it should be clay colored as well imo...

 

Thanks. He wanted the water to stay out between the boards and indicated caulk wouldn't last as long. His idea was this would be less maintenance so he flashed instead of caulked.

I was also thinking about scuffing that white strip of flashing between the boards. Maybe like 150 grit or something and lightly scuff it up.

I could also paint it as is and if it doesn't turn out to my satisfaction I could scuff that strip up and repaint just that part too.

 

Is your home still under construction or remodeling? Looks like partial siding with house wrap showing where the siding stops with nailing edge.

 

I'm having my siding installed & trim wrapped and was waiting on windows to be installed so I had a bunch of exposed Tyvek in areas.

 

The post needs to be settled on the post base initially. You will need solid stain to cover it. First of all start with the sanding process. You can use the white stain. But, remember the first thing which will rot out is that post base. The grain need to be horizontal not vertical. For better results you can consider using vinyl cove molding to keep it away from the water.