The photo is crown molding I think. It will not give you tight joint to the cabinet. Best if base molding is used and match the stain by experimenting. Take the door with you to a paint store.
To answer the question, sorry, you can use glue but hold it tight to the cabinet with weights under dry.

 

There are double sided tapes that would work here.

 

Neal I like the sound of double sided tape. I don't have to worry about making more of a mess. Do you have a tape in mind or brand? I've never used finishing nails, but that's what the guy at HD recommended and to put some color matching putty over the holes. I just don't want to rip the tiles out and set new ones. I have plenty of tile left over, but I have so much work already and no time.

 

All I see is the cabinet side with short tiles. Not sure what is happening with the door case molding. I would use shoe molding with 18 gauge nails driven into the cabinet at an angle. You could also use hot glue, but I find it usually cools down too fast for longer pieces.

 

http://www.surfaceshields.com/products/adhesive-tape/carpet-installation-tape#
At the end they do the molding too.

 

I guess I am the only one on DIY that mops their tile floor in the kitchen ?

So two sided tape would not work long for me long, as it would get wet.

I would buy some color matching sanded caulk and put it right in the offensive tile too large of opening, making it have the appearance of just another grouted tile joint.

Then its water sealed, dog hair sealed, all done and will still have the finished look it has now, by leaving the existing color matched trim at the bottom...on it. JMO

 

Sorry guys, my wife took the pic while I was at work. I will take some better pics and maybe they will explain what I am trying to do and what Im dealing with on the gaps. Will try to take em tomorrow with good lighting. To be continued....

 

Home Depot started selling Scotch/3M double-sided trim tape, the same kind used to hold emblems on your car. Expensive but you don't need much.

 

I'm not trying to take credit from anyone.

Some of this is mentioned above.

I would use either base molding to match existing or quarter round.

Yes, take the door to the paint shop and match it up. But not with stain with paint.

Nail it, putty it, wet rag it smooth, then paint it.

 

Thx Ron, I'm looking at all my options and advice from all you guys. Here are some more pics of what I'm working with. My buddy said I could borrow his nail gun. I want to use plastic wood base molding like in the first pics I put up. It matches the cabinets, I made my cuts to wide and not close enough to that lil toe kick I have on my cabinets. I think its a toe kick, I'm talking about that lil piece of wood I ripped off the cabinet. The gap is really wide and that's where the new molding will hopefully cover it. I wanted to just glue it on, but that tape idea from Neal sounded good too.

 

Not sure what type molding (profile) you have in pictures 1 & 2, but it won't get the job done as I see it. It has been mentioned that you use base molding that will match your cabinets as well as using either shoe molding or quarter round to finish it off. I think either will cover the crack sufficiently. You may want to insert some grout caulk to match your grout in the crack to lessen the effect should the molding fall slightly short of total coverage.

 

Well, ifen't it wus me and I had a couple pieces of tile left over. I would chip out a couple pieces and replace them now that you have remove the molding around the end.

Then you can reinstall the molding you have.

After thinking about it for about a minute, fill the gap with grout and reinstall the molding on top of the grout. Just look like another joint unless someone is real nit picky.

 

I nail it with hand driven 4p or 6p finish nails.

 

Where are the bad cuts? You cut the tiles to the cabs, you
didn't go under the cabs with the tile? I'm having trouble seeing
the bad cut(s) In the pics the tiles look ok to me.

edit, ok, I see it now...you cut the tile a little short of the cabinet.

 

Filling the gap in with the grout as Greg suggested would work,
however, it doesn't solve the problem of the beat up condition
of the bottom edge of the cabinet and the kick plate under the
cabinet. I would run a wide piece of molding along the side and
under the toe kick as well.

You said your friend will lend you a nail gun. If you friend has a
nail gun, I assume he has some skills, ask him to help you
with the molding if you're hesitant to DIY. It would look so much
better than that little piece of molding.

Your tiles are great looking and you did a nice job. :smile:
and the lil' jerk is adorable.

 

Thx for the reply two knots and everyone else. I used his nail gun before when I installed my tile. Im gonna buy a piece of molding and see if it will work and then proceed. Im just nervous about the holes and if I will be able to fill them with the right color of putty and looking good.

 

I bought the base molding and its really close to my cabinets so I'm gonna give it a go. I really wanna go the easy/lazy way and see if liquid nails will hold it on there. I guess I can nail them and fill holes if it doesn't hold. Or should I listen to everyone and nail them lol. Decisions, decisions...

 

Very Nice, you found a really good match to the cabinets.

We've never used liquid nails -- but frequently use a nail gun...
you can use headless brads -- 18 gage with the nail gun would
probably be good a good choice...You won't see them.

Please let us see a pic of the final completion.