Are you worried about the loss of ceiling height?

 

Not really, the trusses are 10' up right now. Obviously don't want to drop it too much, but a few inches won't be missed.

 

Strong-tie makes hangers just for this kind of problem.

Attach the hangers to the existing joists at 24" OC, and install the 2X4s in them.

Then use 1/4" drywall to minimize weight.

Now about the moisture problem you mentioned , you need to find out why it happens and fix that before installing drywall, moisture and drywall do not play well together.


ED

 

Thanks, didn't know hangers like that exist. Got a link to specifically what I'll need?

As for the moisture issue, I should have said humidity. The main problem I have is the attic is vented as it should be, but without a ceiling, I'm getting a lot of airflow through the garage causing condensation issues when the temp drops quickly. I know this won't necessarily fix the issue, just hoping it'll abate it a bit.

 

Went searching for link, got it, it wont paste here.

Search for Simpson Z clip.

You will find a suitable one for your purpose, there are several.


ED

 

Got it. So I'd have to cut the 2x4's and have them between the bottom cords of the trusses?

 

For those specific hangers yes.

Now that you have found the Simpson Site, look through it to see if there is another that you can use, Certain hurricane clips will work, but I thought that you might not understand using them for hangers.


ED

 

my two cents.. if you aren't concerned about ceiling height then just screw the 2x4s into the bottom of the trusses... much less work than trying to use those hangers.. 2 for every 2x4 across the entire ceiling..


I've never put 1/4" drywall on a ceiling at 24" OC so cant speak from experience but some would suggest 1/2" to minimize concerns of the drywall sagging. Also in some areas an attached garage requires 5/8 type x drywall.. maybe not applicable in your case but just throwing it out there..

 

Also in some areas an attached garage requires 5/8 type x drywall.. maybe not applicable in your case but just throwing it out there..

It's required by code as a fire barrier, if here is habitable room above the garage.

 

+1 to what ryansdiydad said.

I would just screw them in across the bottom and rock some 5/8" per code.

 

If the ceiling framing is 4' on center spacing, they are probably rafter ties, required by minimum building codes. Not trusses, unless log/beam trusses- which I would be surprised to see in a garage. Perhaps you have rafters with rafter ties which may be 2x4 or not very often- unless span requires -2x6. These, at 4' oc may be stressed to carry additional framing/ drywall ceiling/insulation since they are 4' apart. What is their span/size?

Since the ceiling is exposed already, you probably don't have living space above requiring 5/8" Type X drywall? You should have 1/2" drywall on the house/garage wall, (all the way up to peak) if built to Code minimums.

Pictures would help us...

Gary

 

For the small difference in price (usually less than $2 per sheet), I would prefer to have the thicker and fire rated drywall in my ceiling.

A large garage might have 35 sheets in it so we are talking about less than $70 and more than a handful of fires start in the garage.

 

And go to harbor freight and buy a drywall lift for like $160 after coupons off......and then sell it when you are done....which my son just did. Had it for a year (long story), sold Craig's list for $10 less than he paid originally.

 

I think a lot of the answers are not understanding the problem (or maybe it's just me)... "I'm planning on drywalling my attached garage to help with moisture and to allow me to insulate in the future. Right now, the "ceiling" of the garage consists of the bottom of the roof trusses that are about 4' apart. To install drywall, I'm assuming I'm going to need to attach 2x4's perpendicular to the trusses at 16" intervals (if I can go further than this to save some material costs, let me know)."--- maybe too hard to read...

""ceiling" of the garage consists of the bottom of the roof trusses that are about 4' apart"--- he has rafters and rafter ties (required by code 4' apart- not trusses (unless beam trusses with 1-1/2" car-decking as sheathing). If he had them at 2' or 16" on center- he wouldn't need the sleeper 2x4's. He has to add more ceiling joists at each rafter or one at 24" on center with blocking to hold them upright at each bearing between rafters- or use the rafters; IF at 24" on center spacing.

"The main problem I have is the attic is vented as it should be, but without a ceiling,"-------------------------- no ceiling OR ceiling joists, you cannot just add strapping between the rafter ties unless they will handle that 48" on center spacing- hence why I asked the size and span of ties.


syogod;
1. what size are the framing members at ceiling height across the garage at 4' on center?

2. How wide is the garage- direction rafters run?

3. Is the house/garage wall drywalled to the peak?

Gary

 

syogod;
1. what size are the framing members at ceiling height across the garage at 4' on center?

2. How wide is the garage- direction rafters run?

3. Is the house/garage wall drywalled to the peak?

Gary

Sorry for the slow reply, been a busy few days.

1. They're 2x4's

2. about 25-26'. not at home so can't get you exact measurements.

3. No. The goal is to eventually drywall/insulate the ceiling, and the walls up to, but not beyond the ceiling.

I pulled a few pictures off my phone that kind of show that I've got. If you need/want better, I'll get some when I get home. http://imgur.com/gallery/kt6tm

Another concern I just ran across is the ability of the bottom of the member of the truss/rafter to bear weight. Is this going to be too heavy to do?

 

Wow, picture does help us! Thanks! Your trusses appear to be standard ones (to my eyes) rated at only 10# per square foot ceiling load---at 24" on center--https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplrp/fplrp499.pdf--, not yours--- check your manufacturer's truss papers or with the City/County on the permit. Judging by the existing sag in the bottom chord where the back-hang for garage vehicle door is- that point is overloaded already. OR, the brace between both trusses is pulling closer to camera truss so holding a ruler under the first common one (end of the brace) shows it very low but could be an optical if not on layout for straight from one end to other on same truss. It may be designed for a ceiling/framing/insulation- or it may not- no one here is going to take that liability.

Gary

 

Thanks!

How do I go about finding out who the manufacturer is for the trusses? My county doesn't require building permits and I don't believe they even employ inspectors, so I think that'll be a dead-end.

I don't believe there's any sag...probably just an optical illusion from the camera. I can check for sure when I get home though.

Assuming I can find out what the trusses are rated at, how do I go about determining if it'll be able to handle a ceiling? Do I just take that 10lbs/sq ft times the square footage of the ceiling? I imagine there's probably more to it than that.

 

You really need a Structural Engineer, with residential experience... try some of the local pole barn/truss manufacturers, since those are 2x6 chords, they would berated at more than 10#, cleaned my glasses, lol. You might find one to take the liability... maybe not as it is not their work. Then there is the issue of no shear blocking at horizontal panel edges at the corners...2x4 stud walls over 10' high (rather than 2x6) may also be a problem. Probably find more things that may deter someone to commit. I wish you success.

Gary