Two hands are your best removal tools after punching a few strategically located holes.

A crow bar will remove the screws easily.

 

Don't forget there's insulation above.
If you are going to go into the attic to do something with this anyway, I would kick the drywall down from up above, if this can be done safely.

Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2

 

If you use a bar and rip the screws out, they'll tear up the truss chords as they come out. Personally, I'd rip the drywall down, then unscrew. If they're plugged with mud, use some small vice-grips to remove them.

DM

 

I agree. Unscrew them!

 

If you use a bar and rip the screws out, they'll tear up the truss chords as they come out. Personally, I'd rip the drywall down, then unscrew. If they're plugged with mud, use some small vice-grips to remove them.

DM

What about smacking them back and forth with a hammer until they break?


Sent from a Samsung Galaxy S2

 

That'd work too, but if it were me, I'd unscrew and clean them up and recycle them! (I'm cheap! :laughing: ) I'd also be concerned about not having a smooth, flat surface to reattach to.

DM

 

Thanks for the responses guys. I figured as much, looks like I should get a heavy duty crowbar and some gloves and have at it!

 

Ceiling drywall screws are required to be longer than the ones used on walls. If you crowbar them out, you'll almost certainly tear up the wood, making it weaker and less likely to have a good surface to re-screw to when you replace the required 5/8" drywall. If you do not want to reuse them, then I'd be inclined to go with titanoman's suggestion and break them off.

DM

 

Good point. Now that I think of it, I will be hanging my new ceiling using clips and a hat channel (this is a sound barrier project). So I probably can just leave the screws in there since there will be a 1.5" gap between the bottom of the joists and the ceiling.

 

A simple flat bar is plenty---be sure to knife the corners --so you don't damage the walls as the drywall is removed.

 

If you crowbar them out, you'll almost certainly tear up the wood, making it weaker and less likely to have a good surface to re-screw to when you replace the required 5/8" drywall.

Phooey !!!
There will be plenty of meat remaining for the new screws. Drywall screws are never that healthy to begin with. Scrape the splinters and go for it.

 

Ceilings Mike....

DM

 

Okay, whatever you guys say. But of course, you know I'm right...... :laughing:

DM

 

since there will be a 1.5" gap between the bottom of the joists and the ceiling.

3/4"..............

 

It's actually 1 5/8". Clips + channel.

 

Drywall of 5/8" thickness is a typical "code minimum" for ceilings most everywhere I know of. Has to do with fire protection.

 

oh'mike and I were just talking on the phone (he was on his way to breakfast with a friend/client) and he suggested throwing down some visqueen plastic before you start! I have to agree! Then when you're done, just roll it up and dispose.....
This WILL be a messy project, guaranteed!!

DM

 

I should have also added that 5/8" won't sag (between the rafters) as quickly as 1/2" will.

 

And yes, 5/8th is code for me. I'll be actually adding 2 layers of 5/8th.

 

I'll be actually adding 2 layers of 5/8th.

Okay...but why?

 

Sound proofing reasons.

 

Got it!

 

Are you going to use Green Glue between the drywall boards?

It's good to be learning all of this. I'm going to be tearing drywall out of 2 rooms in my basement soon.

Instead of taking the drywall screws out of the studs, would it be alright to use a multi-tool or a Sawzall to cut them off?

Also, would it be alright to use a circular saw to cut a line in the drywall from one end to the other between the studs? Of course, with the blade set slightly deeper than the thickness of the drywall to avoid hitting electric wires. I'm sure there's a reason why that won't work, but thought I'd ask.

 

Why wouldn't you be able to cut the screws?
Using a saw...if you want dust everywhere.

 

Instead of taking the drywall screws out of the studs, would it be alright to use a multi-tool or a Sawzall to cut them off?

Those screws are super-hard. Not sure with the cost of blades for Sawzalls and Multi-tools it would be worth it.

 

I hadn't thought about the dust. Hmmm. I don't know if I have the strength in my hands to pull down drywall. I guess I'll find out .

The Sawzall blades would probably be the cheaper of the two. Multi-tool blades are fairly 'spensive.

 

If you have the strength to hold up a saw, you can rip drywall out.

 

A claw hammer will make short work of drywall removal too.

DM

 

I like using a good garden hoe to pull it down. Doesn't pull through the board as quickly, so you get bigger chunks torn off.

 

Good idea!

DM

 

There is also always a neighborhood teenager.