Ive never had anything not stick to new sheetrock... Maybe its was really dusty? That can happen. That said, you cant go wrong with 123, but make sure any sanding dust is wiped off. Also, what kind of mud were you using?

 

Ive never had anything not stick to new sheetrock... Maybe its was really dusty? That can happen. That said, you cant go wrong with 123, but make sure any sanding dust is wiped off. Also, what kind of mud were you using?

 

99% of the problems with paint is because the surface is unclean or other problems.
I use a floor mop and wipe the walls before painting.

 

Sheetrock First coat is my favorite drywall primer.

 

 

I'm not a Kilz fan but that should not have been the problem - without having been there, my first thought is the drywall was not clean.

 

Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate them. I wiped the walls with dry microfiber. Is there anything else I could try doing? (I know you can't get fresh drywall wet.)

 

I'm also not fond of Kilz latex primers but most anything will stick to new drywall so I doubt that was the problem .... unless the primer had froze before being used. It sure sounds like a contaminate on the drywall, if it wasn't dust than maybe something else.

 

Since your other drywall project was in your basement there could be issues with moisture. You need a plastic vapor barrier at the least to keep moisture from migrating into and through the walls. Also could be foundation leaks. I said all of that because it’s very unusual for paint to peel off of drywall. Even if you didn’t remove dust properly, the primer usually mixes in with the dust and still sticks to the paper facing of the drywall. I wouldn’t worry too much about primer adhesion on your latest project, as long as you have a clean, sound surface.

 

That paint is peeling, which is a real heartbreak, but not the subject of this post.

Did the paint come off, or the paint and primer?

 

Drywall is faced with paper. Paint sticks very well to that textured paper, and also to drywall compound. Drywall primers are pretty much misunderstood I think. If you have a failing issue, there is some other problem.

Most modern paints are "self-priming" so to speak over bare drywall. Which is to say, you don't really need to prime drywall. If you have some problem, figure out what the problem is and fix that, either with a primer or some other way. Fresh drywall shouldn't have any problems.

If you want a true sealer, Gardz is possibly the best. Many drywall primers have some sheen which makes paint adherence worse, and you just have to sand them.

 

Hi all, new member here. We're midway through a renovation. I previously primed new drywall in our basement with Kilz Drywall Primer and finished with two coats of SW Super Paint Satin. That paint is peeling, which is a real heartbreak, but not the subject of this post.

I'm once bitten, twice shy and really don't want to go through more problems with paint not adhering well to new drywall.

Thanks so much for reading!

I use PVA Primer on every new sheetrock/drywall. PVA Primer is specialized just for that.

It is what I also use before and after surface texturing too.

-- It is cheap
-- Never have a recall or a issues with it.
-- Use several brand including SW and what ever in special at Lowes or HD.

$58 for 5 gallons.

At that price, you can apply 2 coats pretty easily.

It is only for new drywall or "new texture". It is not the best primer for already painted surface or wood.

 

The problem with PVA primers is they don't do a great job of sealing the drywall. Lower end flat paints might not be washable over PVA and latex enamels require an extra coat to achieve an even sheen. Not saying a PVA primer shouldn't be used, just that it has limitations.

 

Here, we are doing mostly textured wall. I like PVA for that. It is sold to us as a Primer and Sealer. But, if I only put flat or eggshell I might use another Primer type or some cheap semi-gloss white paint on top of the PVA.

For Crazy thick texture (3/8"), a few PVA coats might not be enough to prevent paint ghosting. That the only issue we did have with PVA and SW.

Several years ago, we did have some issues with Zinsser giving us false VOC numbers or refusing to give one. I lost a big customer. Since then, I have banned Zinsser from job site, except the BIN that is sometime requested by some Insurance company (that I generally replace by SW Shellac). We did ban Rust-Oleum for anything that is not metal or some shiny 3000 grit polish. Even that, we use many others brand now.

Might be a function of the type of Client we do have. Many ask for zero or low VOC for all product.

 

For actually sealing drywall, I don't know of anything better than Gardz. They could probably get more business if they marketed this stuff differently.

 

Is it possible that humid temperature caused the paint to not adhere properly? I would try running a fan in the room. I've used Kilz all-purpose primer from Home Depot and Sherwin Williams paint as well and never had any issues. Also, try mixing the primer/paint fully before applying.