If you bend it, it will cause the trap to canter to the left, throwing the shower drain off. Is the shower in place?

 

Yes, shower is in place. I probably leave it as it is, seems like it's the best option.

 

right now, the vertical pipe bit off to center, so, moving the trap to bit left would be fine I think.

I am wondering what would be the proper way of fixing this issue?

Thank you!

 

Furring your joist is the only solution. Raising the trap removes the vent.

 

I would cut it out and start over using fittings to move it up.

 

Yes, as OT says.

 

It depends on a few other parameters.

How far away is the vent take off from this shower trap outlet?

What is the slope on this pipe right now? 0%? 1/4" per foot? Somewhere in between?

 

This is going to sound odd.

Cut the drain close to the floor, with enough room to put a 90 on it facing the camera, then run pipe at the camera, and another 90 toward the left joist, install a trap there, and 90 back to your current proposed pipe to bend.

Cut that pipe to fit a 90 from the trap extension.

All while keeping a grade to flow out.

ED

 

Cut the drain close to the floor, with enough room to put a 90 on it facing the camera, then run pipe at the camera, and another 90 toward the left joist, install a trap there, and 90 back to your current proposed pipe to bend.

Cut that pipe to fit a 90 from the trap extension.

You are still raising the trap doing that,

If you raise the trap, the existing pipe must also be raised

 

Some additional detail/pictures:
Slope: about 3/16" drop for 20" length
I was looking up PVC fittings, not sure what would work best.
Photos:

 

Here is an idea: Leave it as is, rock and finish the ceiling, leaving the errant drain protruding the ceiling.

Then use a disguise lid over the trap.

A mirrored ball half would be an added decoration and would look like a security camera in a supermarket was watching the kids every move.

ED

 

Currently you have a horizontal wet vent with the lav being vented. If you only have 1 shower head you could downsize the trap to 1.5 inch and get a 1.5 inch shower drain kit.

 

I would move the trap up and use a couple of 22.5 degree elbows and other fittings to get it to connect to the existing pipe through the joists.

 

Thank you all for your help. "Here is an idea: Leave it as is, rock and finish the ceiling, leaving the errant drain protruding the ceiling... " from de-nagorg makes me thinking. I probably leave it as it is. Thanks again.

 

So you are wet venting, the length from the p-trap outlet to the vent take off is the length hilited in red in the image below. If the straight distance you showed is 28", I am guessing the developed length in red is about 36" or 3'.

For the venting to work, you cannot drop more then 2" (because you have a 2" pipe) of grade within this distance, this means you can actually steepen the slope to around 0.5" per foot from that vent take off to the P-trap. If this is to be inspected a building inspector may fail you on the slope being steeper then 1/4" per foot because most building inspector does not fully understand how the pipe size (2") the developed length (3') and the slope are related and as long as you can keep the air pocket open between the trap weir and the vent during "full flow" then you are OK. So that is one option.

The other option is like Ghostmaker suggested reduce your shower to 1.5". Now some AHJs require 2" regardless, some OK with 1.5" and some makes it dependent on your shower GPM output.

The third option is to cut a hole in your ceiling to let the U-bend protrude and mount a disco ball to cover it LOL.

 

Under IPC he is allowed 1 shower head on 1.5 inch trap for a shower.

 

Just put put furring on the joist and drop the ceiling an inch.
That is how your ceiling should be done anyways in a basement.

 

"That is how your ceiling should be done anyways in a basement." -- could you please explain why furring on the joist is the way to do ceiling in a basement?

 

It helps deaden sound transfer for one reason.
They can help flatten the ceiling when the joists are perfect
They help clear plumbing traps or any thing else that is a little to low.

 

Which leave another question.

Have you ever been in a basement with too little headroom?

I have, at 6'3" I have encountered one where the owner "finished" it at 6'1".

And I had to hunch over to get in and out.

Most likely not code compliant, but the owners were all "shortys", at around 5'6".

ED

 

If you furr I would furr perpendicular to the existing joists.

But I think considering all options I will downsize p-trap to 1-1/2" you can keep the pipe from p-trap outlet to lav as 2". That way you don't need to mess with the joists at all. That plus shaving a bit off the drywall's back side may get you the 1" total you need.

A third option is to build a box, or circle in that area to conceal the p-trap. Can even be a stripper dance pole using the void behind the cone shaped top for the p-trap.

 

Maybe a couple 22's to step up the horizontal. That's still a tricky redo to glue it up and get it exactly where you want it.

As an aside, looks like a bit of negative pitch going on.

 

He is doing a horizontal wet vent, so can't offset up with elbows has to be a constant pitch.

 

I am only 5ft 6 myself so I don't think I ever had a ceiling to low .
But good point . We don't know the ceiling height .

 

Here is the update: I tried to take the least effort path - not messing with the slope and p-trap, so I just used Oatey 8 oz. Purple CPVC and PVC Primer and Medium Milky All-Purpose ABS, CPVC, PVC Cement Combo Pack 302322 - The Home Depot to glue the pieces together - seems like I didn't do a good job (this is my very first PVC gluing effort) and it is leaking water.
1. Water was not leaking when I had dry fit but leaking after gluing! How is this possible? I am trying to find all the reason so that I will avoid (or try to avoid) in future.
2. At this point, to fix the leak, what are all my options? Is there some kind of "stuff" I can use at the leaking point to stop the leak permanently?
3. If cutting the horizontal pipe (and p-trap) is the only option, I will go with 1-1/2" p-trap and 2"x1-1/2" couplers (this is just regular shower, just one shower head). I came across flexible PVC coupling: Fernco 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. DWV Flexible PVC Coupling P1056-215 - The Home Depot Does flexible PVC coupling work in this scenario?

Thank you.

 

Here is the update: I tried to take the least effort path - not messing with the slope and p-trap, so I just used Oatey 8 oz. Purple CPVC and PVC Primer and Medium Milky All-Purpose ABS, CPVC, PVC Cement Combo Pack 302322 - The Home Depot to glue the pieces together - seems like I didn't do a good job (this is my very first PVC gluing effort) and it is leaking water.
1. Water was not leaking when I had dry fit but leaking after gluing! How is this possible? I am trying to find all the reason so that I will avoid (or try to avoid) in future.
2. At this point, to fix the leak, what are all my options? Is there some kind of "stuff" I can use at the leaking point to stop the leak permanently?
3. If cutting the horizontal pipe (and p-trap) is the only option, I will go with 1-1/2" p-trap and 2"x1-1/2" couplers (this is just regular shower, just one shower head). I came across flexible PVC coupling: Fernco 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. DWV Flexible PVC Coupling P1056-215 - The Home Depot Does flexible PVC coupling work in this scenario?
View attachment 801427

Thank you.

"Water was not leaking when I had dry fit" how did you do the dry fitting? When you dry fit you cannot push the pipe all the way into the fitting and have it bottom because the fittings are tapered intentionally so when you apply the cement the solvent welding will happen. I am not sure how you dry fitted for leak testing as nothing will be fully inserted.

I have never used a "all purpose cement for PVC, CPVC & ABS". PVC, ABS and CPVC all have different properties so I always used PVC cement for PVC, CPVC cement for CPVC and ABS cement for ABS. I doubt with an all purpose cement you are getting the strongest connection which is solvent welding you are just getting it "glued".

The process matters, did you clean both male and female ends, primed both ends, applied cement on both ends, insert until it bottoms and turn the fitting or pipe to allow even spread once inserted? Did you let go after a second and it backed out a bit? Was the insertion crooked a bit? Did you apply primer or cement only part way up the female?

Also why is that coupling even there? Why not a straight piece of pipe from shower to top of the U-bend? That coupling looks like a pressure coupling not a drain coupling although it should not matter in this situation.

There is no solution but to redo it.

 

Possibilities, not enough adhesive.
Not seated firmly, and not perfectly straight (plumb).

And what you have cannot be taken apart to repair, start over.

An idea, get a small can of FLEX-SEAL PASTE, and a disposable putty knife.

then make a plug / patch all around the joint with the paste, let dry and test it for leaks.

This will be ugly, but it will not be seen again when the drywall is installed.

ED

 

"... not perfectly straight (plumb)." - straight pipe from U to shower drain is not 90 degree, it is more like 93-94 degree because that's U's position allowed. but to keep the pipe at the center of drain, I held it at the center of drain and completed the drain installation. How does plumb affect gluing and cause leak?
I picked up Flex paste, will try and see how well it works. If it still leaks, I will start over. Thanks for suggesting Flex paste, I might use it wherever I join pipes as extra layer of leak proof (using Flex paste this way is ok, right?)

 

Chamfering the pipe is "encouraged" but I have not met one plumber who does it on PVC. The idea is the bottom of the fitting hub is beveled therefore a chamfered pipe will meet that bevel perfectly. The reality is as you push the pipe into the fitting excess cement will be pushed forward into the joint forming a ring of cement around the inside, this is why one should not apply too much cement.

No idea why yours failed.

Just speculation, did you make the joints from one end to the other one by one and the leaking joint was your last joint? I asked because that coupling may be joined two ways. One is you apply primer and cement to the shower drain tailpiece and the u-bend at the same time so that the coupling can be inserted and by turning the coupling as you insert both sides in you spread the cement evenly. If you do one joint at a time and that's the last one, you can only push up on it but not turn it.

I suggest redoing the p-trap completely but use a 2" sch40 swivel u-bend, this give you the ability to take it apart later if you drop a diamond ring down the shower drain, and give you some play in the install.

 

I did one joint at a time and the leaking joint was the last one, however I did turn it while pushing the vertical pipe is still free. I installed shower drain after gluing all the pieces. shower drain link: Oatey Round No-Caulk White PVC Shower Drain with 4-1/4 in. Round Snap-In Stainless Steel Drain Cover 420992 - The Home Depot

redoing: I will first come up with a playbook, thinking like this setup: existing 2" horizontal pipe connected to 2" x 1-1/2" coupler connecting to 1-1/2" swivel u-bend connecting to 2" x 1-1/2" coupler connecting to 2" pipe leading to shower drain. I want to use 1-1/2" u-bend to save 1/2" so I don't have to box there.