[Karen Laura]

Moved dryer to new location. It has a 4 prong receptacle. Installing new 4 wire cord and getting conflicting opinions on what to do with existing green/yellow wire that is attached to dryer frame under a green screw. Also need to know if:
1. Does green wire from 4 wire cord go under that screw with the green and yellow "or"
2. Does green and yellow get removed and capped off and new green wire only goes under screw "or"
3. Leave green and yellow under screw as is originally by itself and not attach new green to anything (cap or off)
I have seen all 3 opinions in various forums.

 

[Jim Port]

Normally there is a ground symbol on te frame that the jumper needs to be moved to from the center terminal. You should be able to find your manufacturer's instructions on line to verify.

 

[rjniles]

Remove the wire from the green screw and connect to the neutral terminal of the dryer along with the white from the 4 wire cord. Connect the green of the cord to the green screw on the dryer frame.

Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk

 

[seharper]

So here's the thing. Dryers need 2 hot wires and neutral. So on a 3-wire connection, there is no ground. "uh-oh"...

When grounding became a requirement in the 60s, the appliance industry was worried about losing sales, so they lobbied to make it legal to do this weird and sort of shady trick. Instead of grounding the dryer, they just attach the dryer's chassis to the neutral wire. "What could possibly go wrong?"

Well, what could go wrong is if the neutral wire gets loose, it doesn't stay at neutral and floats up to 120V, and then touching the dryer zaps you. (remember the washer right next to it is actually grounded, so touch both and blammo!) The industry's argument is "this should be quite rare, since dryer connections are rarely disturbed."

So, anyway, in a 3-wire dryer connection, the dryer's neutral is bonded to the chassis/ground of the dryer, by a wire or strap.

When you go 4-wire, you want to make sure you remove that.

The dryer's instructions (typically available online) will walk you through that, but you can also test it with an ohm-meter, by setting either ohms or continuity (beeps if connected) and measuring between neutral and ground on the plug. Those are the two on the plug's centerline. If you *didn't get it*, it'll read very low (below 10 ohms) or will beep. If you did, a high or infinity resistance, and no beep.