DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

200 amp bonding grounding NEC correct fix

1 reading
1.1K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  SeekerKris  
#1 ·
So, I have done enough electrical work to know basics of service install but by know means am I an electrician that know the all the code and non typical problems. I do own a copy of the NEC 2017 and NEC 2011, as well as a torque screw driver that I use when doing any breakers even reciprocals.

I bought my first home, it has it problems, but the short of it is I will be doing a 200 amp to 200 amp main disconnect swap. That stablock has to go.

It currently has RMC with 3 copper feeders from meter to main with no EGC. Not sure what size the RMC is but there clearly is another knockout ring that can be taken out, and of course there is no grounding bushing! Even if the RMC was used as EGC as it has been proven to work better than a #4 or #6 it would create a dual path for the neutral current.

The water main that comes in to the home is plastic, plumbing is new pex just fixed that, there is also no rebar hook up from the foundation.

I would like to add an intersystem grounding bridge and new rods as I have no clue whats out there.

This setup is from the 1970, but with all the plastic, lack of rebar(or accesses?) , not sure how to properly bond to water, and ground to earth.

Not having an EGC in my main disconnect bothers me even if they are bonded at the meter to the neutral.

suggestions, help, hopefully backed by NEC code that I can note on photos. I Will be taking photos to show progression of work, in case of future resell of my home. Codes are not enforced around here they are more like guidelines and its such a shame and pain.

Thanks for your time
 
#3 ·
Seeker.... I'm a GC and not an electrician....

But, is your references above to the EGC (equipment grounding condusctor) or is your reference to the GES/GEC (grounding elextrode system/conductor)

Is your question as to how to properly ground your system given no ufer or metal water system available...?????
 
#5 ·
Seeker..... Wait around for one of our knowledgeable great electricians.

(I think they are going to tell you 2 ground rods 6 ft apart tied continuously with #6 ground to your main disconnect (main panel) grounded/bonded neutral.)
 
#6 ·
Just a new home owner, almost done with an engineering degree and had to learn a lot of stuff to help family out as I was growing up. This house was full of surprises. Note Im good with math and science not spelling etc. Sorry.

what I know:

built 1970's, Location IL, overhead service, provider is Ameren https://www.ameren.com/company/business-partners/service-manual

I will be swapping breaker box out this is the main disconnect. 200 amp to 200 amp.
Trying to fix a grounding / bonding issue.

3 copper Feeders are ran from meter to main disconnect in RMC. (in attic about 20 foot max box to meter)

no ground wire ran to main disconnect, seems they are trying to use the RMC, but did not use grounding bushings, and there is at least 1 eccentric/eccentric knockout left around the RMC. ( don't remember what type of knockout it was)

water pipes:
All in house and up to water meter is plastic.

seems to be no rebar or other metal hooks for earth ground.

There is one grounding rod ran to the meter, not sure how long / deep it goes. assuming It is bonded in the meter box.

What I want to do:

Not use the RMC as ground as it creates a dual path for neutral current (i know there is studies that say it is better conductor than #4 or #6 copper).

Not have to Run a new conduit and feeders.

I do believe I need to get a ground wire to the main disconnect regardless of the bonding in the meter.

I would like to add an intersystem grounding bridge and new rods.

I know you cant just run a bare ground along side the RMC, from my reading it needs to be in the RMC.

It also seem If I run new rods then bring that to the main disconnect via running it under house or along siding then into main disconnect it cause some funky codes that need to happen.

I just need to understand code wise what is legal, and since the lack of other grounding spots is there any other extra I need to do 3+ rods, longer rods etc?

Can I just use a split bolt to tie the rods to the old one? or do i need to run it in to the meter after its pulled.

Hope that clears up what I am trying to do.

Thanks for your time.