[HenryMac]

Dangerous - Bad - Poor - Good - Better - Best

I'd have used a composite deck board under the header. PT tends to split as it ages, and the orientation you have the short board it will split with the wood grain and be of little use over time.

I enlarged the photo... looks like you are still using non structural screws ?? they aren't designed for structural / shear loading. Didn't we already talk about that in this thread? :vs_mad:

 

[ny86yanks]

I only used the nail to hold the board in place while I drove the screws in


on the 2x4 mounted to the post under the joist I used GRK structural screws, code complaint. this is whats in the 2x4 under the joist:


https://www.grkfasteners.com/products/multi-purpose/multipurpose


in the post to beam I used ledgerlok bolts, I actually called the company to make sure they were load carrying bolts


we did speak about this in the thread that's why I used all structural screws and bolts


at this point some of you are just being REALLLLY critical...I am building deck DIY in my yard, im not a contractor doing it for a client


"Yes, it is acceptable to add a cleat on each side of the 4x4 support post. Cleating is a side mounted support along the post, underneath the beam. This is a great way to reinforce the support post and add girder support.

Cleating will provide extra support for the 2x8 beam, but it may not be entirely necessary. The carriage bolts should be strong enough to support the girders. However, it is always better to have the added support.

Why not, its an easy enough job which will provide you with piece of mind."


I will go back and add more screws to the supporting 2x4 like this photo

 

[ny86yanks]

thougts?


https://www.decksgo.com/can-i-reinf...nforce-my-decks-4x4-carriage-bolted-supporting-girders-with-a-cleat-system.html

 

[HenryMac]

I only used the nail to hold the board in place while I drove the screws in....

The nail is fine.. my bad on the screws. They looked like deck screws.

I'm not being critical, just want to make sure all your effort is wo:wink2:rth the blood and treasure.

 

[NotYerUncleBob2]

at this point some of you are just being REALLLLY critical...I am building deck DIY in my yard, im not a contractor doing it for a client

All the more reason to do it better than the worst thing you can legally build. It's going to be your family standing on that deck.
Stop trying to justify cutting corners.

 

[ny86yanks]

enough


not sure where you are getting that I am trying to justify cutting corners and implying I may want to put my family at risk


that is the whole point I posted here...and why I took the time to correct things on the framing


using structural hardware (lag screws/bolts) at the post to beam connection and cleating underneath the joist seems to be an acceptable fix without having to rip the entire deck down to notch the posts....



also, I like your simplistic analysis there of saying the worst thing I can legally build...im no expert but carriage bolts and lag bolts at the connection is hardly the worst thing one could build

if you have any further suggestions for me im happy to hear them, but you aren't being helpful.


on that note I think I have gotten what I needed from this thread.

 

[ny86yanks]

The nail is fine.. my bad on the screws. They looked like deck screws.

I'm not being critical, just want to make sure all your effort is wo:wink2:rth the blood and treasure.

I decided to the grk structural screws they weren't as expensive as the ledgerlock screws that I used on all the other connections

 

[HenryMac]

I'd be more concerned if the deck was 5 to 10 feet off the ground, but based on the fact that it's nearly on the ground... no worries.

 

[ny86yanks]

exactly...number one deck failure is ledger failure, im 18" off the ground lol


id also like to point out that simpson makes a bracket for a post to beam connection with no notch, so im sure my 2x4 bolted to the side under the beam is doing the same thing that simpson bracket would, or pretty close to it

 

[ny86yanks]

some municipalities allow it, it looks like


Attaching the Beams
1. Follow the building code for attaching the horizontal beams to the vertical posts.


Carriage bolts attach the beam and post from the side. Metal post caps attach the beam to the post below it.




5. If required by code, add cleats to provide additional support to the beams. Even if not required, cleats are a good idea. To install cleats: 1. Measure down the width of the beam. 2. Install a small cleat made from a 2x4 with nails or screws.

 

[RockyMtBeerMan]

Me, I have an upper deck that is 20 feet off the ground and lower one that is 11 feet off the ground. I fastened (with 6 inch HeadLok screws) pressure-treated 2x6's under the PT 2x12 beams all the way to the concrete footing. Next, I'm adding 2x8's to the other sides of the 6x6 posts to further support the 2x12's. Then I might band them all with steel bands.

Moral of the story is that it's called Minimum Spec for a reason. Always overbuild and over-brace the heck out of things. You'll sleep much better. And you won't have picky friends coming over critiquing your work if something wiggles. Fewer lawsuits, too.

Good man listening to all, okay, most, of the advice from the good people here. ;-)

 

[ny86yanks]

those fastenmaster brand screws are amazing aren't they?


I used two to three of the ledgerlok screws at each post to beam connection (5" long ones) and on two parts of the deck used the 8" long headlock screws...they claim to al be stronger than lag bolts


I am not done making the deck safer either, I am cementing 4x4s in the ground under certain points of the deck attached to the joists, for extra support and less load on the post to beam connections...trying to find a simpson bracket that sits on top of a 4x4 and attaches to one 2x, but most of the simposon brackets that sit on top of posts seem to be for two 2xs together


the grk structural screws I use for the cleats I put under the connections


I am looking for something like this, but instead of accommodating two 2x8s I want one that only accommodates one:


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...m/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ZMAX-Galvanized-Double-Post-Cap-Base-BCS2-2-4Z/100374868

 

[HenryMac]

I am looking for something like this, but instead of accommodating two 2x8s I want one that only accommodates one:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson...m/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-ZMAX-Galvanized-Double-Post-Cap-Base-BCS2-2-4Z/100374868

If all else fails that one will work, just shim with scrap lumber.

Cut the ends of the scrap at 45 degrees, and layout the screw pattern in a symmetric eye pleasing pattern... it'll even look nice.

 

[HenryMac]

Me, I have an upper deck that is 20 feet off the ground and lower one that is 11 feet off the ground.

Part of the problem with codes and spec's. is one size doesn't fit all. Realistically, construction of a 20 foot high deck that is 20 ft square is going to be different than one sitting 6 inches above the ground that is 6 ft x 4 ft.

We replaced a deck on the back of our home 2 years ago simply because it was PT and the surface boards were getting spongy. The deck had been there since 1978. I made a few changes, but logic told me if it lasted nearly 40 years, it's basic design was good.

I was more concerned with the spiders that had red violins on there tummies than anything else. :vs_whistle:

 

[ny86yanks]

thanks for that tip about shimming it with a scrap 2x......sometimes the solution is so simple


that thing may be venomous lol

 

[NotYerUncleBob2]

If all else fails that one will work, just shim with scrap lumber.

Cut the ends of the scrap at 45 degrees, and layout the screw pattern in a symmetric eye pleasing pattern... it'll even look nice.

When you double a board like that, put a piece of flashing tape over the top. Sistered joists like that are a notorious water trap that will rot quickly.

 

[NotYerUncleBob2]

enough


not sure where you are getting that I am trying to justify cutting corners and implying I may want to put my family at risk


that is the whole point I posted here...and why I took the time to correct things on the framing

Ok, I am being a little harsh on you, but hoping to get through because it's an important message and hopefully others might get the lesson too. When building you inevitably come across situations where you have to make adjustments, or improvise, and sometimes it's an opportunity to make it better, but often you wind up with a solution that's less than what you hoped for when you started. When you start off from a position of barely good enough, or cutting corners, then you're going to wind up with something even less.

I had a friend die on the job because someone thought that it was good enough when they started. None of those guys working that day thought that what they were doing was going to fail, let alone kill someone.
All the stories I hear of serious accidents and deaths always come back to not following the procedure or cutting a corner.

also, I like your simplistic analysis there of saying the worst thing I can legally build...

That's the definition of saying something meets code. The worst thing you can legally build. The code is supposed to be the absolute minimum, not the standard we strive to meet.

 

[RockyMtBeerMan]

When you double a board like that, put a piece of flashing tape over the top. Sistered joists like that are a notorious water trap that will rot quickly.

Glad you mentioned this. I have 50 feet of 4 PT 2x12's on the upper deck beam and I put aluminum flashing over the full length and down the sides a bit and over the ends to keep water out and to prevent "frost heave" between the boards; works great.

 

[ny86yanks]

I got the flashing but my posts are in the ground, they will rot


I got boracare which may help? not sure if it will....


I found out they sell post sleeves after the fact, the post slides in so the ground doesn't touch the post.....pissed off I missed those

 

[NotYerUncleBob2]

Deck posts shouldn't be in the ground at all. The post sleeves won't help you there. They should be on post bases that separate them from the ground.
Flashing tape won't do too much on the vertical post. It's for the top of doubled up joists to prevent water from pooling there and then soaking the space between the boards.