Jamser:
So far as I know, EVERY latex paint will have surfactant in it to help wet the surface for better adhesion.
Here, do this: Take a razor and cut a 2 inch square cross hatched pattern (like a checkerboard) through the paint on the area of your house where there was no surfactant leaching and also in the area that have the worst surfactant leaching. Stick some ordinary 2 inch wide yellowish masking tape over each area and pull it off quickly. (This is how they measure paint adhesion in a lab, where the percentage of squares of paint not pulled off with the tape is quoted as a measure of paint adhesion and anything over 75 percent is considered "good adhesion" and over 90 percent is "excellent adhesion".) If you get significantly more squares of paint pulled off in the area that had the surfactant leaching, then it means that film formation and adhesion was compromised by the drying conditions. If you get about the same results in both areas, then it means that the drying conditions weren't adverse enough to interfere with proper film formation and adhesion.
That will conclusively tell you how much the paint film was affected by the surfactant leaching.
Because of the way latex paints (and floor finishes and just about anything that's milky white in the can and dries clear) form films, the fact that you haven't said anything about the affected paint being "whitish" in colour would suggest to me that you still got proper film formation and adhesion everywhere.
You don't need to know this, but it helps to know how latex paint works:
Latex paint consists of a slurry of clear hard plastic particles and pigments of various kinds suspended in a solution of water and a low volatility water soluble solvent called a "coalescing solvent". After you apply the paint to a wall, the water evaporates and the hard plastic resins find themselves surrounded by the coalescing solvent at an ever increasing concentration. The coalescing solvent penetrates into and softens the plastic resins sufficiently that capillary pressure and surface tension cause the soft resins to pull on one another (just like rain drops coalesce in a clowd to form bigger drops) hard enough that they distort in shape to form a continuous very soft plastic film with no air spaces in it. The coalescing solvent then evaporates from the paint film over the next few days giving you that "freshly painted smell" in the air, and the plastic then hardens up to it's original hardness with the pigments suspended in the plastic film very much like raisins in raisin bread.
If there were a problem with proper film formation, then the resins would not have softened enough nor been distorted enough to form a continuous plastic film, and there would be tiny voids or spaces inside your paint film. (Remember, a paint film is made of a clear plastic binder which only has colour and opacity because of the various pigments in it). Those tiny voids in the plastic would reflect and refract incident light in all directions, and the scattering of the light would give the paint film a whitish appearance. That is, the tiny voids in the paint film would make the paint whitish for exactly the same reason that tiny air bubbles in and ice cube make the ice cube white instead of clear. There is nothing white inside the ice cube or the paint, it's just that your eye sees all the different frequencies of light that get scattered in slightly different directions at every refraction as the colour "white".
Since you haven't mentioned anything about a white discolouration in the affected area, that tells me that the paint film formed a film properly, even in the worst affected areas.
Maybe do the masking tape test in several areas to ensure that the results you get aren't just anomolies.
