[carpdad]

Attached photo is the gauge. I don't know where I got the gauges from. Amazon, homedepot. Brand is simmons. I probably bought them after some research or based on the reviews. I used one of it for my parents whole house pressure reducer.
Recently I posted leaky gauge from amazon and why I think it leaks. So made one with parts I had plus the hose connector which is solid piece of 3/4 garden hose x 1/2" threaded male. Hose nut doesn't spin, which is now I understand the need for the red needle. Since nut doesn't spin, gauge may be facing away from me. This setup doesn't have the relief either.
Anyway, on basement utility sink faucet, I got 80 psi. Very surprised. I thought this house actually had lower pressure. I never had any water banging. Never had any leaks from boiler or the water heater.
The gauge is 1/4" thread with a hole little larger than 1/16"? That shouldn't matter with water pressure? As I understood it, water pressure is same everywhere, any size. Please confirm or correct me. The number is from cold side and as far as I know, hot water doesn't mix anywhere. Boiler also has a reducer which is also a one way valve, I think.
Finally, wondering if anybody can recommend a gauge that can be trusted? Pro store? What can I use as a standard? I included back of the gauge to show it's nothing special.
But based on the reading, I am going to add whole house reducer.

 

[SW Dweller]

Gauges are suspect unless calibrated. Depending on the gauge and what you paid for it will tell you if it is worth calibrating. If I am suspect of a gauge I get another one from a different MFG and see what it says.

 

[SPS-1]

The gauge is 1/4" thread with a hole little larger than 1/16"? That shouldn't matter with water pressure? As I understood it, water pressure is same everywhere, any size. Please confirm or correct me. The number is from cold side and as far as I know, hot water doesn't mix anywhere. Boiler also has a reducer which is also a one way valve, I think.
Finally, wondering if anybody can recommend a gauge that can be trusted? Pro store? What can I use as a standard? I included back of the gauge to show it's nothing special.
But based on the reading, I am going to add whole house reducer.

Correct, it doesn't matter what size the fitting or the hole is, if you are measuring static pressure.

Possibly, you can manage to measure your tire pressure. Then, you can probably find several different gauges (home, gas station, etc) that you can compare to.

You can buy high accuracy gauges. See the McMaster Carr test gauges at the bottom of the page. You can get them with calibration certificates traceable to NIST standards. You get what you pay for. Considering your first gauge came from Amazon, I doubt you are going to spring for any of these.

 

[Matt1963]

Attached photo is the gauge. I don't know where I got the gauges from. Amazon, homedepot. Brand is simmons. I probably bought them after some research or based on the reviews. I used one of it for my parents whole house pressure reducer.
Recently I posted leaky gauge from amazon and why I think it leaks. So made one with parts I had plus the hose connector which is solid piece of 3/4 garden hose x 1/2" threaded male. Hose nut doesn't spin, which is now I understand the need for the red needle. Since nut doesn't spin, gauge may be facing away from me. This setup doesn't have the relief either.
Anyway, on basement utility sink faucet, I got 80 psi. Very surprised. I thought this house actually had lower pressure. I never had any water banging. Never had any leaks from boiler or the water heater.
The gauge is 1/4" thread with a hole little larger than 1/16"? That shouldn't matter with water pressure? As I understood it, water pressure is same everywhere, any size. Please confirm or correct me. The number is from cold side and as far as I know, hot water doesn't mix anywhere. Boiler also has a reducer which is also a one way valve, I think.
Finally, wondering if anybody can recommend a gauge that can be trusted? Pro store? What can I use as a standard? I included back of the gauge to show it's nothing special.
But based on the reading, I am going to add whole house reducer.

Not sure of all of your questions but your guage is probably close enough. In my area you can install a water line without a reducer if it's no greater than 80lbs so your close.

Auto fills on boilers are typically reducers because they run on pretty low pressure.

PRV on hot water tanks and boilers are typically 130 to 150lbs that's why you haven't had a problem there.

 

[carpdad]

Thank you all for replies. Absolutely, noway I'll spend big money to calibrate or certified tool. Multiple verification idea is interesting.
1. tire air gauge - my parents is now 40 psi on the water reducer gauge. Does expansion tank pressures (I charged it to 60 psi before the meter and house reducer changes). But I'm guessing expansion tank will still say 60 psi air?
2. or I'll get a gauge from a pro shop. I don't have another gauge for water. Maybe thinking too much but this is an itch.
Again, thank you all for the info.

 

[Matt1963]

Thank you all for replies. Absolutely, noway I'll spend big money to calibrate or certified tool. Multiple verification idea is interesting.
1. tire air gauge - my parents is now 40 psi on the water reducer gauge. Does expansion tank pressures (I charged it to 60 psi before the meter and house reducer changes). But I'm guessing expansion tank will still say 60 psi air?
2. or I'll get a gauge from a pro shop. I don't have another gauge for water. Maybe thinking too much but this is an itch.
Again, thank you all for the info.

Expansion tank needs to be set at water pressure before you install it on the water line. There is a diaphragm is there and you want it in the middle so it can absorb fluctuations and surges. If it's set to 60 and you hook it up when the pressure is at 40 it's going to move to one side making it not work properly.

I find that most are set wrong and older ones have failed and filled with water and no one even knew it.

Funny, it all in the instructions but nobody seems to read them!

 

[Matt1963]

Here is a good video on the subject. I had to watch 3 videos until I found a guy doing it right. Crazy!

 

[carpdad]

Thank you for the information. I'll check the video. I hope this video explains why same pressure numbers are important for only 20 psi difference and how those numbers affect the operation and life/quality of plumbing fixtures in the house. There are many how to but I haven't found any (not extensive search) principles and consequences explained.
I'll figure it out and if can't, will follow the book.
I also had another thought about the water pressure gauge. I don't think i have to obsess too much about the accuracy of the gauge. It is relative to what I see about the plumbing fixtures I think? The biggest problem with too high pressure is banging pipes I think and, as you say, pressure relief valves are there and boilers have reducers.
It was a surprise to find my house pressure is that high and the first thing I did was knee jerk disbelief.

 

[Domo]

Perhaps I don't understand OP's concerns.

Big box stores have pressure gauges for around $12 that work just fine with female hose connector for deepsinks, hose bib, etc.

• Accuracy is ASME, type B

 

[carpdad]

I am thinking too much. For my use, relative is good enough, is my conclusion. I found professional grade gauges from graingers and a store called mccarr(?), and they are near $100. My parents water pressure is now around 40 psi and no complaints about showers. I will just use the gauge I have and see what happens to my shower. I will also adjust the WH expansion tank to it.
I'm kind of mystified now why I don't have banging pipes. Maybe I shouldn't change my luck by questioning it.
I started suspecting the accuracies of cheap gauges after buying a cheap pressure tester when it leaked from hose connection. Before this, I just took the accuracy for granted. I think I just over reacted.

 

[Matt1963]

I am thinking too much. For my use, relative is good enough, is my conclusion. I found professional grade gauges from graingers and a store called mccarr(?), and they are near $100. My parents water pressure is now around 40 psi and no complaints about showers. I will just use the gauge I have and see what happens to my shower. I will also adjust the WH expansion tank to it.
I'm kind of mystified now why I don't have banging pipes. Maybe I shouldn't change my luck by questioning it.
I started suspecting the accuracies of cheap gauges after buying a cheap pressure tester when it leaked from hose connection. Before this, I just took the accuracy for granted. I think I just over reacted.

Just so you know, the water pressure coming into my house before the regulator is 120psi. I have it knocked down to 80

 

[TheEplumber]

@carpdad, I agree that you are over thinking this. You said in your OP that you have no issues at 80psi which, although at the top end, is within acceptable pressure range per code. If it concerns you, add the PRV, throw cheap gauges on there and move on.

 

[carpdad]

7 years in this house and never suspected the water pressure. Actually I was thinking water pressure is on lower side. I realize this is just another guess, but I blamed american standard faucet for leaking after just 6-7 years. Though I would assume a brand name faucet should be ok with 80 psi. It didn't have satisfying shut off feel(?) either. Feeling like it had rubber washer and the handle bounced back. This is not a question, just a product review. Ordered watts water regulator with dual union. Another fun project. I also realized how much spare parts I kept with me. I can do the whole regulator addition with just the new regulator and reducing bushing for the gauge.