[George6488]

I ordered the TileRedi base, bench and niche. It looked like a sure-win situation. I installed the base with a 3/4" dry mortar bed and of course had to stand on the base to seat the drain pipe on a slab foundation.
Tile installers came 5 days later and would not install tile as there was alot of flex in the pan. I was on a short time span, had installers standing and they wanted extra to just stand around. Of course all the Durorock sides overlap the base. Decision time! I paid the installers to go get the materials for constructed in place mortar / membrane base. I got out the Sawzall and cut the base out in 5 minutes in 8 pieces. The tile setters came back and put their new base right over my mortar bed which had not adhered well to the base at all. I was back on schedule with an $300 in costs for the tile guys and then continued with my projects while their base set over night. I never had second thoughts about the whole issue and just wrote it off to bad luck with a poorly designed product. I used the niche that was installed in the wall and sent the bench back for a refund -20% restocking fee and freight fees at my expense. Returned the bench on 12/19/2011 and had to follow-up on my credit on 01/31/2011....still waiting for their response. Yes.....I did get an RMA number for my return and I did get proof of delivery for my shipment. Did I tell TileRedi about my problem.....no, as I learned when originally ordering that they were not the sharpest tacks in the box. I now have a beautiful bathroom and have never looked back on my experience.

 

[Bud Cline]

George not everyone can afford that kind of rip off.

I'm glad it all worked out for you.

 

[George6488]

I can't afford that waste of $$$ but I had a decision to make and doing nothing was costing me more $$$. I know that I could have carefully removed the base, rescheduled the tile guys to another day and then reset the base. I knew going forward that I would not have any better chance of the base working 100%.
Decision time was upon me and I quickly decided to move the project forward and minimize added costs and delays.
I have spoken with the Tile Redi customer service on several occasions and have never been very impressed or satisfied. Life is just too short to get all stressed out as I fully believed the finger would have been pointed at me and then the fight would have been on.
I have a beautiful bathroom and have moved forward.

 

[JRhino]

:furious::furious:Tile Redi is not for the average DIY, which I am. There is no margin for error. I installed a pan and there were two small areas (less than the size of a coffee can lid) on the pan that did not adhere properly to the mortar bed - made it soft. To test it, I laid tile in that area. Guess what? The tile broke. Tile Redi reps acted suprise. He said I could "have up to 1/8 inch flex and it would be ok to tile." Not true. Then when I tried to save the pan thinking if I could pull it up, I could give the mortar bed another shot. Guess again? The pan had stuck enough that it broke below the water line when I was trying to get it out. I've never wasted this kind of money in a project. If I had skills, I'd go with the mortar bed, which I may still give a shot, but never again would I use the Tile Redi product. I wish I'd found this site before I threw away almost $600. Oh, and when I emailed the company with my issues the second time, silence....

 

[andrugargy]

Tile Redi pan / tray was installed.The plumbers installed drawer, but then went into the thing to blow up the drain pipe. This cement compressed in the front and a bent front result in the seizure after the concrete has dried.
___________________
Kitchen Renovation

 

[beegrice]

Beeg. I want to thank all of you, I was just getting ready to get the Redi tile pan but not now! Sounds like too much grief.
So, I am getting the impression that the most cautious of you feel no shower pan product is worthwhile. I do a lot of home improvement but have little experience with tile. Sounds like I either have to bone up a lot on how to install my own shower pan or hire a tiler. What's the going rate for doing something like a 34 X 42X 66 inch shower stall? (I cant buy a standard shower because one side is boarded by the sloped ceiling in an upstairs cape cod)

 

[aworkman]

Total novice here. I've laid tile in the past, but nothing close to what it looks like it will take to prep a shower for tile. I'm wondering, is there an issue with just using a regular shower pan and just tiling the walls?

Thanks for your input.

 

[Bud Cline]

I'm wondering, is there an issue with just using a regular shower pan and just tiling the walls?

No issues what-so-ever. The only area requiring special attention is the juncture between the wallboard and the shower tray.

 

[aworkman]

Thanks Bud!

 

[boob]

polymer fortified versabond from home depot. this is what i use whenever i set tile and these bases, be generous when putting the shower pan down, get your floor dead nuts level, do not try to level with mortar. they are hard as solid as can be when done properly. epoxy mortar is a b****. cut all tiles fit fit pan first, take them out, apply epoxy to pan, set tiles back. also portion epoxy for side walls. the first time i set one of these i uses some mortar from lowes and it wouldnt dry by the 3rd day!, had to take it up,and clean up the garbage mortar. i always stick to versabond mortar

 

[xpert advice]

Tileredi pans

I sure hear alot of whining about tile redi ,here are the pros & cons PRO When properly installed , they save a ton of labor & provide a perfectly sloped & waterproof base. CON They are expensive(but so are call backs & leaks) the drain cover options leave a little to be desired for the money(looks cheap & scratches easily) the drain connection is a pain ( I spoke to a rep. at a contractor event about switchein it to an industry standard caulkless drain body) the epoxy thin set is apain to work with & doesent stick to the base perfectly ( Tile-redi should think about moulding some tooth to the inside) Dont be in a hurry , start with a sound level base, keep it clean , don't buy cheap thinset mortar to set the base with , get some graduated containers to measure out a portion of the epoxy so you will have some to set the wall tiles that ciontact the walls & curb ( the epoxy kit costs @ $ 100- $130 from Mapei) & don't take this project on unless you are very confident with your skill set I've personally set @ 10 of these pans & once you know the secret instructions they are great to work with but not for amateurs I also recommend A 2"x2" MOSAIC for the bottom once properly installed thes things are practicatlly bullet proof.

 

[Bud Cline]

Just repeating the above information from expert advice:

PRO: (1)
1. they save a ton of labor & provide a perfectly sloped & waterproof base


CONS: (6+)
1. They are expensive
2. the drain cover options leave a little to be desired
3. looks cheap & scratches easily
4. the drain connection is a pain
5. the epoxy thin set is apain to work with & doesent stick to the base
6. once you know the secret instructions they are great to work with but not for amateurs

 

[cortez]

Bud cline , could you help me with a few ?? I bought the tile ready pan 60/46 and this thing has been a big pain the the as!!! I put it down once but had a lot of movement so pulled it back up and done it again. This time just a little movement so I am going to screw it down like you did , but the pan crack in about 4 spot. I was going to put the kerdi mat reliner what did you use to glue it to the pan and what can you use to glue the tile to it . Would you use kerdi on the wall all the way to the top... thanks sorry for all the ??

 

[tomnc27107]

Tile Redi shower pan update

After two attempts I used MAPEI Ultracontact - 100# instead of the mortar bed. After nine months of use I am happy to say that the shower bed is working great. There is no flex. When you step on the shower bed you get a very firm feeling of support. The Title Redi instructions to use a mortar base just did not work for me. Use a compound lke MAPEI Ultracontact and save yourself some trouble.

 

[Bud Cline]

cortez: "Bud cline , could you help me with a few ?? I bought the tile ready pan 60/46 and this thing has been a big pain the the as!!! I put it down once but had a lot of movement so pulled it back up and done it again. This time just a little movement so I am going to screw it down like you did , but the pan crack in about 4 spot. I was going to put the kerdi mat reliner what did you use to glue it to the pan and what can you use to glue the tile to it . Would you use kerdi on the wall all the way to the top... thanks sorry for all the ??"

I used a product called KERDI Fix available from Schluter Systems via Home Depot or any real tile store. KERDI Fix comes in a tube, you would have to dispense it from the tube then spread it with a putty knife to get 100% coverage. That would be my only suggestion. It will take two tubes.

I'm not convinced any of the thinset products will stick to the base material. In fact, I'm sure it won't.

Mapei Ultra Contact is a medium-based thinset product that would be way too thick for this type of application in my opinion.

 

[tomnc27107]

Tile Redi Show Pan Update

Bud,

I wonder if there is a misunderstanding of where I used the thin set.
I used the thin set to set the shower pan, not to set the tile inside of the shower pan.

I know as an experienced tile person that you have at sometime removed floor tile, or shower/bath tile that was placed using thin set. When removing the floor tile it has been my experince that --first - if the tile was buttered properly the tile is hard to remove and usally has to be broken, second - that the thin set will be bonded quite well to the substrate and has to be hammered at times to remove it - third - that the thin set bonds to the dry wall tight enough that the paper is also tore off with the tile.

I used the thin set to bond the shower pan to the substrate. The tile installed inside the shower pan was set using the recommended epoxy material.

Thin set is used in may ways to hold tile inplace on many different substates. Plywood, dur-rock, sheet rock, etc.. Thin set is also used to set tile that is placed on a ceiling application.

I also know that the show pan is firm and does not flex when stepped on. The tile grout is solid and the tile has remained in place.
What more do you want?

 

[Bud Cline]

I wonder if there is a misunderstanding of where I used the thin set.

Yup, I misunderstood. Using the thinset (under) the pan would be okay as far as I can see.

Using the thinset to set tile directly to the "plastic" Tile-Redi shower pan would not be a good idea.

I have used regular mortar products under those type of shower and tub bases for years without a hitch. Sandmix, mortar mix, etc. Never seen a need to use thinset I guess because of the cost. But I have never used the Tile-Redi product in any of my projects. The pan being referred to by cortez is a pan that was purchased by the homeowner and installed by her plumber. It wasn't until things went to hell with her project that I was called. She was a homeowner that was going to piece-meal her bathroom remodel one handyman at a time. She was a know-it-all doctors wife that knew everything there was to know about everything there is.

 

[tomnc27107]

Glad we cleared things up.

I would use a Tile Redi pan again in an application where the extra cost was not a major concern. I do not feel that the Tile Redi pan will ever leak as long the subflooring is solid and the tile walls are sealed correctly.

This whole web site has been a joint learning process.
I hope our misadventures and experiences will save some other person from having a similar a problem.

 

[Bud Cline]

I just noticed this thread has had about 15,000 hits. I wonder how that equates to lost-sales for Tile-Redi.:laughing:

 

[kaylesimon]

What length screws?

I'm in the same boat as others here with a flexing tile redi pan. Not a lot of flex, but any concerns me. I want to now screw it down and apply kerdi fix and kerdi to it. My question: how long and what type should the screws be? Looking at the schematic it looks like they should be about 3 inches, but if someone could let me know what they used successfully, that would be helpful. I imagine they were counter sink screws in order to not have them bumping up? And did you pre drill for them? Thanks! P.S. I'm screwing into wood subfloor, not cement.