We have a ground level deck we had built a few years ago. It ended up being too high off the ground so we added a surrounding step to help close the gap and make it less of a tripping hazard. The ground is not completely level, and there is still about a 5” gap along parts of the steps. We have gravel and fabric underneath deck to reduce weeds and water pooling. Currently there is some flagstone placed to narrow the gap under the step, but it’s not ideal. What is the best solution to make the bottom step level with the ground? Bring in top soil or pavers? Do I need to place gravel around deck first, then top soil to prevent water flowing to low points underneath deck which will be lower after adding fill?
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Insultcomicdog
We have a ground level deck we had built a few years ago. It ended up being too high off the ground so we added a surrounding step to help close the gap and make it less of a tripping hazard. The ground is not completely level, and there is still about a 5” gap along parts of the steps. We have gravel and fabric underneath deck to reduce weeds and water pooling. Currently there is some flagstone placed to narrow the gap under the step, but it’s not ideal. What is the best solution to make the bottom step level with the ground? Bring in top soil or pavers? Do I need to place gravel around deck first, then top soil to prevent water flowing to low points underneath deck which will be lower after adding fill?
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The time to fix this problem properly has passed. However what I'd do now is place fill around the lowest step and sod it, leaving a 4" plastic drain pipe at the lowest corner to drain any water that may fall on the top and drip between the boards. Use a clayey soil immediately in front of the step, and whatever else you can get to feather the slope out toward the rest of the lawn.
It should have a concrete step on the ground with the same rise and tread width as the wood step
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I would say it was built this way so the water would drain from under the deck which imo is a great idea. You will be causing trouble if you try to restrict water from running away from the deck.
Now you need to build another step that is 6" tall (riser) and 11" deep (tread) that is built like a bench. That is to say closed in on the 11" side and open on the 12 foot side with a couple of supports in the middle. Make two of these. These are not attached to your deck. But rather these short steps are pushed up to the deck on the two sides where there is the open space beneath. These measurements will end up with all risers being same height which is good for safety as it reduces trip hazard.
The legs could be set onto of bricks that are countersunk into the earth with the top of bricks at top of soil. The bricks will keep the legs above the soil so the legs won't rot.
I like to use 2x12 cypress for steps. Cypress is very strong, durable, long lasting and rot resistant. I like to use 3" deck screws with predrilled holes.
I don't know exact dimensions of your deck but one of these new steps will be 11 1/2" longer than the other so that they meet up at the outside corner.
Oops. I just reread your original post. Seems like you added a step before. Seems that you need to do that again on two sides but leave these new steps open for drainage purposes.
You could attach strong L-shaped brackets to the current steps that would hold the new steps down. These brackets would prevent the new steps from tipping. By using brackets you would be able to move the new steps. Because the new steps are close to ground, they may need to be replaced before other parts of the deck.
Now you need to build another step that is 6" tall (riser) and 11" deep (tread) that is built like a bench. That is to say closed in on the 11" side and open on the 12 foot side with a couple of supports in the middle. Make two of these. These are not attached to your deck. But rather these short steps are pushed up to the deck on the two sides where there is the open space beneath. These measurements will end up with all risers being same height which is good for safety as it reduces trip hazard.
The legs could be set onto of bricks that are countersunk into the earth with the top of bricks at top of soil. The bricks will keep the legs above the soil so the legs won't rot.
I like to use 2x12 cypress for steps. Cypress is very strong, durable, long lasting and rot resistant. I like to use 3" deck screws with predrilled holes.
I don't know exact dimensions of your deck but one of these new steps will be 11 1/2" longer than the other so that they meet up at the outside corner.
Oops. I just reread your original post. Seems like you added a step before. Seems that you need to do that again on two sides but leave these new steps open for drainage purposes.
You could attach strong L-shaped brackets to the current steps that would hold the new steps down. These brackets would prevent the new steps from tipping. By using brackets you would be able to move the new steps. Because the new steps are close to ground, they may need to be replaced before other parts of the deck.
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