1st the left corner looks like you cut it. you cannot cut the corners they need to be folded it will leak maybe not right away but in a short while. as far as the step i have only installed plastic forms which you run the pan into and pour cement into it and tile it. but it sounds like you are doing a glass wall there. it looks like you should have cut the "flap over" closer to the wall and more on an angle to cover the whole threshold. at this point you can cut a piece of durock and cover the whole threshold. then put 1/2" durock on the walls butting up close to it and keeping away from the floor about 1/2" and remembering not to screw the durock no lower than 6" above the floor so there are no holes under ther base to keep it water tight. but again if you cut the corners the pan will leak so you need to change the pan now and not let it go. and fold the corners!!!

 

Shower Construction Info (a collection of posts) - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

I see a few mistakes--You need to preslope the floor before the liner goes in--that will let water that gets under the concrete drain away--

No cuts in any corners--folds only---the pan should be flood tested before the deck mud gets packed in there---if it will hold water for 12 hours---then pack your base--

That's good practice,and cheap insurance.--Mike---

A plumbing supply house or tile supplier will have square drain covers for that drain set---a lot easier to cut the tile to a square cover--Have fun--M--

 

i have never nor have i ever seen anyone preslope the floor before the pan. the drain coming through the base have no holes so where will the water go? you keep the pan flat on a clean floor with no debris to prevent anything rubbing through. and yes no cuts in corners just fold and use duct tape to hold the fold. one more thing make sure you silicone under the pan and above the pan where it attaches to the drain.

 

Wellcraft--The drain set pictured has a set of weep holes where the drain cover screws in--
--those weep holes are usually kept open by placing pebbles or a hand full of spacers around the base.

Please take the time to read the link that I posted---I do a lot of packed shower bases--I think you will benefit from reading that link--Mike--

Oh,welcome to the forums---

 

Wellcraft,

Aside from your error oh'Mike just mentioned, you also gave incorrect info about where to put a bead of silicone. Although hardly ever done, you're supposed to apply silicone between the lower part of the drain and the membrane. However, do NOT put silicone between the membrane and the upper half of the drain. That is where the weep holes are.

I'm not sure whether you're a tile guy or a plumber or handyman type, but don't feel like you're getting picked on. I had a "situation" with a 50 years experienced plumber, who is a moderator of the plumbing forum at another forum and has over 22,000 posts, calls himself a "senior plumbing expert" The "discussion" was about the pre slope. You'd think that even if he didn't do it right, (no pre-slope),he'd at least know it was national code and the right way to build a shower.

Go to JB's link and also check out; http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html
Or if you want a really good waterproof shower go here. http://picasaweb.google.com/tile4youinc and look for Kerdi. :thumbsup:

Jaz

 

i do apologize if i seem like i was upset or anything like that. i did research and asked around about the pre slope. but i have to tell you i have been doing plumbing for 14 years with 4 years of schooling. i helped a tileman a lot who was in the business for about 45 years. hes done bases, mud walls and mudfloors (im sure you have too) and not once when we did a base we put a pre slope in. he has since passed on but i also asked other tilemen, plumbers and carpenters i work with on a daily basis who have been around for a long time and they also never heard of pre splopping. so i do apolgize for my lack of knowledge in this area and i am appreciative of learning this method. i am just guessing that maybe in my area of the US they do not require this because even new work they dont.

 

I'm not surprised you couldn't find anyone who knew what a pre-slope is. It's a problem all over. That is why I say that at least 95% of the shower are not built correctly and the membrane is not the only issue.

It starts with the building departments of our cities and towns. They do not make plumbers slope the membranes as the code books specify and so it's no wonder that even conscientious plumbers don't do it. Why should they? They'd have to charge more, who is willing to pay extra when others skip that step and charge less?

Maybe you were absent when you studied shower pans? It's in there. IRC, IBC, UPC every code book, and every manufacturer that makes shower membranes and related items. It says something like; shower membrane to be sloped 2 degrees to the drain. I don't remember the exact verbiage, but it ends up to be 1/4" per ft. min.

You are right that the states are able to choose which parts of the codes they will enforce. Many feel the benefits are not worth the added costs. They must think efflorescence, mold and the odor from the stagnant "swamp water" trapped under the concrete by the flat membrane in fine.

That is why I only build Kerdi showers using the Kerdi Membrane and the Kerdi Drain.

Jaz

 

For starters, a pre-slope is required by every liner manufacturer I'm aware for, for example here are the Oatey instructions, see Fig A and Step 2:

http://www.oatey.com/shower_drains/lit/Shower%20Pan%20Liner.pdf