[hornetd]

I would think THWN since it will be in conduit

I think that the THWN is a good choice since using type UF cable would increase your cost and require a larger conduit without providing any additional utility. When running cable of any type in conduit the largest cross sectional dimension of the cable is used as it's diameter when calculating its cross sectional area for conduit fill that is done to compensate for how an oval cable will change orientation were it goes around bends. 2 conductors is the lowest percentage of of conduit fill you may use. Combine those 2 effects together and the effect is rather wasteful of material and effort. Using individual conductors will give you a larger percentage of the conduit's cross sectional area than 2 cables would and the 5 wires will use up a lot less of the available cross sectional area in any size conduit.

How to transition to the outside? I could also use a box inside the basement and then use a LB to transition outside and into the ground.

I like this approach but there is one other fitting to install no matter which approach you use. Because the RNC (PVC Conduit) is likely to subside into the disturbed soil in the bottom of the trench or be shifted upward in the soil do to frost heaving, which is displacement by expanding ice in the soil below it, you will want to have an expansion coupling

in the vertical portion of the conduit beneath the LB condulet

(conduit body).
That will keep the conduit from being pulled out of the end of the condulet that faces the ground or forcing the LB condulet upward until the horizontal nipple into the indoor box breaks. By far the most common type of ground movement damage is settling that puts a lot of downward pull on the vertical portions of buried conduit runs.

The pavilion run is 70ft and pool run 150ft. Should I run 2 conduits from the house?

That wouldn't do any harm and it might look better then a stop at the pavilion but you have other choices. Your going to be trenching anyway so you could use a Ground Box

to bring the 2 conduit runs together. A ground box is more "elegant" but it is also more expensive.The one shown will cost around $45. The ground box can also be used as just an access to a fully enclosed weather proof box. Because outdoor conduit systems are always treated as wet locations you would still use waterproof splicing devices.

Another junction point that you might prefer would be a lamp post light.

This would give you an attractive area light and a place to bring the 3 conduits together. neither of these require expansion couplings. The conduits are stubbed up into the base of the lamp post above ground level or up into the ground box to very near the surface and the splices are made in the box using waterproof splicing devices. The conduit could settle a full foot and would still be inside the lamp base or ground box at their ends.


If you have a need for a yard receptacle at the point were the conduit has to run in 3 different directions then consider installing a pedestal or post mounted yard outlet.

at the junction of the 3 conduits. A yard outlet box is a great place to have your pool cover dewatering pump receptacle because the cover design makes it so much easier to fully cover the cord while it is plugged in.

If you use a post mounted box at the conduit junction point you will need 3 expansion couplings for the 3 conduit risers. A pedestal functions much in the same way as a lamp pole base so expansion couplings are not needed for them.

You could also run the conduit from the house to the pavilion and from the pavilion to the pool cover pump receptacle. How you would do that would depend on whether the the pavilion footing is on grade, its floor is above ground, there is a crawl space, and if there are 2 good places to run conduit up the side of the pavilion or only one. If you were to post a photograph of the side of the pavilion were the conduit will be run to we could make better suggestions. Is the pavilion open sided or fully enclosed?

Here is one example of how you might do it at least costs if the appearance would be acceptable. Bring each conduit up the side of the pavilion through expansion couplings into a 2 gang device box

like the one shown above. The six vertical hubs allow you to run 2 conduits in the bottom and one conduit out the center top up the side of the pavilion. You can fit this box with a weather proof switch cover for the Building disconnect of the pavilion. An ordinary toggle switch can be used for the single branch circuit and no Grounding Electrodes are required.

In view of the 150 foot run to the pool cover pump receptacle you are going to want to use #10 AWG wire for that run regardless of whether you run one circuit or 2. We cannot see your house nor can we read your mind or tell the future. If there is any real chance that you or a contractor will end up needing to work on a real project at the back side of the pool then consider running the 2 circuits as a Multi Wire Branch Circuit (MWBC) all the way to the pool cover pump receptacle. If run in #10 AWG copper conductors from 2 20 ampere breakers, which have the handles tied together with the manufacturer's handle tie, each of the receptacles of the duplex receptacle outlet would have 20 amperes of 120 volt power available through it. That would be enough power to supply multiple power tools running at the same time. You could tap off of that circuit at a pole light, ground box, or duplex device box, at the pavilion, to supply the pavilion lights and receptacle outlets. You would want to use #10 wire anyway because the voltage drop for 20 amperes through 12 AWG wire would be hard on any power tool you might end up needing to use back there. By running a multi wire branch circuit you would minimize the amount of voltage drop when loads were powered from both of the energized conductors of the MWBC at the same time. The #10 AWG would be necessary whenever you were running any heavy 120 volt load of 16 or more amperes from one of the receptacles. Examples of such loads are a chipper/shredder, pressure washer, or a high volume water pump used when draining your pool.

What size conduit? I was thinking 1 inch but want only half inch running up the pavilion So not an eye sore.

Use a 1 inch hub box and a reducing bushing

down to 1/2 inch in the top center hub from which to run the 1/2 inch conduit up the side of the pavilion. If you run a separate conduit to the pavilion then you could use a single gang box with hubs that match the larger size of the underground run. By putting a reducing bushing into the top hub you could run the 1/2 inch size conduit up the side as you would have with 2 conduits into the bottom side of the double gang WP box.

Should I run 1 inch and reduce it at the ground level of the pavilion? Or is 1 inch over kill?

The installation I have suggested above will allow you to reduce the conduit size at the top of the device box which is mounted just above the expansion couplings. If you choose to run a separate conduit to the pavilion or to use a ground box you would have only 1 expansion coupling and a single gang WP box for the building disconnect at the pavilion. Without seeing your pavilion I cannot tell how you may want to wire it so how the wires enter from the building disconnect into the interior of the pavilion would be up to you. The hubs of the box must be sized for the largest conduit that connects to that box. You use a reducing bushing (RE) to connect a smaller conduit. The size of a conduit may not reduce except at an accessible point such as a condulet or box.

[If you are located in or immediately adjacent to an area of natural ground cover of any extent please let me know. I'm retired out of 45 years of firefighting and medical rescue service and I can tell you how to make your swimming pool a major fire defense resource. I did ground cover fire suppression for 6 years and structural fire protection is one of the toughest jobs in fire suppression work. By making simple and relatively inexpensive steps now you could save your home from an approaching wildland fire. Living in the wildland urban interface is not for the faint of heart.]

Those are my thoughts for right now. If you provide more information or post photographs of the sides of the buildings were the conduits would go in and out I may have more suggestions.

Tom Horne