Looks simple to me.

You change the angle of the stair stringers, to a landing 3/4 the way up the knee wall, then a landing, and then more steps down to the floor.

That pipe will just go through a different level in the steps, no problem.

It looks like there is a little room to widen the steps too, where the kneewall is a few inches from the other wall.


ED

 

It’s hard to tell from one picture, looks like there may not be a headroom limitation. But there might be an issue at the bottom landing that might prevent extending the stairs. More pictures and/or a sketch is needed.

 

There's a view from the top of the steps.
That paneled looking wall on the left is original....or at least was there when the house was bought 30+ years ago. Same with the banister. We can't push the wall out to make it wider because at the top on the other side is a small hallway.
I think the landing at the bottom is fine. It was all originally concrete and about 20 years ago the put laminate down. I could get better pictures of the bottom if they needed.
Don't know if it effects anything but there's another staircase over this one (which is why the ceiling is sloped.
If specific pictures are needed just let me know and I can get them. Same thing with measurements.
Thank you guys so much for the advice so far. I really appreciate it.

 

Hi. We're looking to replace the basement stairs. They're a bit steep and we've noticed that as our dogs age they become scared to go down them. Even older family members aren't fond of going down them.
We'd love to fix them ourselves but we have an issue of a pipe going through them and the pipe cannot be moved. Not really sure how to work around that. Is there a way to put a sturdy staircase in? Or are we stuck with what we have?

We will need some measurements to start just see what is possible
We need the total height from floor to floor but we never trust the lower floor to be level so you have to draw a level line from the floor upstairs.
The landing of the stairs at the bottom is usually about 2 feet passes the head block so that is the height between the floors see arrow 1.
height of head box at the corner see arrow 2
Height of pipe see arrow 3.
Distance to the bottom of the head block from the upstairs wall?

Having theses measurement will allow more questions.

 

I wonder if you can train your dogs to use a stair lift.

 

Redirect Notice

Don't know if above will show. My computer stops with google owned images. Search with "framing stairs" and go to images. Look for headroom. It is 80 inches but you can get away with 73 or so. My 1920 house just grazes my hair if i don't stoop a little. It's fine because it was built before the rules. So you need to change your stair risers and you can as long as you don't hit your head on the framing above every time. If selling the house, rub some dirt on the new framing and say it was like that all the time.
Old stringer may not have to be removed. Haven't thought about it very much. Can it be done with just changing the cleats under the treads?

 

You need 7 ft headroom at the header, so if you make the stairs less steep by making them longer, you run the risk of creating a head-knocker.