DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All..

I am new here but have been reading the posts hear for a while.

I would like some help on my up coming project where I need to replace
a shutoff Gate Valve on a 1 inch copper supply line. As you can see in the pictures below, I currently have a gate valve that will not shut off completely. I have a city ball valve in the water meter ground vault that I close when I need to do work in side the premises , but I need to fix the main shut off. My question is to get the opinion of the pros on line here about soldering the joints on the 1 inch pipe that is coming out of the ground (with concrete around it). I am fearing that will not get enough heat into the joint to sweat it correctly. What I was planning to do is to cut the existing pipe above and below the gate valve and then replace it with a ball valve with pieces of pipe already solder on to the ball valve. I would use copper couplers on the top and the bottom to joint the existing pipe with the new pipe. I was planing to use MAPP gas, but am wondering if I should use acetylene due to the 1 inch pipe and the ground cooling. I was planning to suck the water out of the inlet (coming from the ground) with a piece of vinyl tubing as far down as I could stick in down the pipe.

Can anyone who has tackle a task like this comment on the soldering challenges?

Thank You

Joe
 

Attachments

·
General Contractor
Joined
·
84 Posts
First tip, don't use the new valve with that bottom pipe already sweated on there, you would have to cut down near the cement to union it in. Cut just below the existing valve and attach the new valve directly there. As long as the city main shuts flow completely you shouldn't have a problem getting those pipes hot enough.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First tip, don't use the new valve with that bottom pipe already sweated on there, you would have to cut down near the cement to union it in. Cut just below the existing valve and attach the new valve directly there. As long as the city main shuts flow completely you shouldn't have a problem getting those pipes hot enough.

I though that it would take more heat to sweat the brass ball valve vs a union. I didn't think about the union being closer to the concrete though...
Do you think MAPP gas is enough heat to do this?

thank you...Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,493 Posts
Keep all the work up as high as you can, stay away from the concrete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Mapp Gas should be plenty hot enough to sweat the new valve onto the incoming copper pipe. Just make sure that you clean all the paint from the pipe. I mean really clean the pipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Mapp Gas should be plenty hot enough to sweat the new valve onto the incoming copper pipe. Just make sure that you clean all the paint from the pipe. I mean really clean the pipe.
Do you have any recommendations for cleaning the pipe? I used sandpaper to get the paint off the segment of pipe in the picture. I then plan to cut the pipe and use more sand paper, and a pipe brush on the pipe and the valve. I will then flux, mate and sweat as usual...

Thank you...Joe
 

·
General Contractor
Joined
·
84 Posts
Do you have any recommendations for cleaning the pipe? I used sandpaper to get the paint off the segment of pipe in the picture. I then plan to cut the pipe and use more sand paper, and a pipe brush on the pipe and the valve. I will then flux, mate and sweat as usual...

Thank you...Joe
Sandpaper :thumbsup:
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top