Uh, ya they would. Send pics.

 

Think 1966 Chevy Nova with a V8 and changing #8 spark plug. Engineers saw an opening and put an engine in it to match the hole. Problem was the engine had to be lifted 6" to access the #8 plug. They can do it.

 

Can you pick out the parts we are looking for?

Porter Cable PCB220TS Parts Diagram for Assembly (jackssmallengines.com)

 

PARTS IN QUESTION. -Been out of town just got back. The parts in question are 127 & the Bevel gear that mounts to it. Porter cable has these labeled as: #3685 for the shaft & 34PR for the bevel gear.
Thanks

 

PARTS IN QUESTION. -Been out of town just got back. The parts in question are 127 & the Bevel gear that mounts to it. Porter cable has these labeled as: #3685 for the shaft & 34PR for the bevel gear.
Thanks

I found a video for a different saw just to see how it works.
It looks like you would have to free up the threaded shaft and then turn it far enough to clear the gear.
I am not sure how you do that. You may have to remove #126
PC model 220 TS table saw. parts blade raising gear change - Google Search

 

HI
First- Part No. #126. On the drawing, it appears to be a separate part, but in order to remove it, you have to take apart the entire blade housing cover to get to any bolts holding it on the blade cover.
That's a lot more complicated than what you might think. It makes sense that part #126 would be removable.

Second- On my saw, I took a very close look at that part 126. To me it looks like it is actually a part of the aluminum blade cover casting which means it cannot be removed at all. But I WILL take another look at it. In the drawing, they also show a part #129. There are two part #129's and they support the motor casting and mounting. One of them is shown as sitting on that part #126. On my saw, that is not the case. Both of those part's 129 bolt onto the lower blade guard casting.

Third- I have the actual user's manual for this saw. In the manual all the part numbers on the drawing are different from the part numbers posted in the drawing above adding to the confusion. However the drawing in the owner's manual and the one posted are the same. However, the actual saw itself is NOT the same construction as detailed in those drawings. If this sounds nuts to you, its because Porter Cable obviously made changes to this saw at some point in time but NEVER bothered to update their parts drawings. This is the only thing I can figure out here. Their stuff is a mess.
Its no surprise to me why the so called authorized repair depots charge $200 (as posted by another person) to change out a stupid $10 plastic bevel gear.

I've run into this problem with other equipment manufacturers who do not post the revised drawings on line. I've run into this many many times with John Deere equipment. Their drawings & part numbers contain many errors & revisions but they neglect to release them. Why I don't know. Their own dealerships have not been able to chase down parts for me without getting the area supervisor involved. Global sourcing, or just make it ad to the bottom line & force people to buy new or pay idiotic repair fees.

After having said all this, what I am thinking might be easier, is to remove the entire saw table top & lift it off. That would allow me to remove the #126 once I remove the screw holding the bevel gear in place. But right now I don't even know if removing the table top is possible & I'm not in my shop to take a look at it. PC is no longer the company it once was. Its now just a bunch of cheaply made junk by Black & Decker.

Thanks for your effort, but that video you linked me to really does not help this situation. Actually I found the video you posted earlier & looked at it. But thanks anyway for your effort. I appreciate it. I guess I will still have to just tear this entire stupid saw down to change out that one gear. Unbelievable. I worked for a major oil filter manufacturer. We had engineering drawings for every part & kept strict control over part numbers and revisions. We even had a drawing of a piece of common string that went into one of our filters, along with a rubber band drawing. These companies do not have stupid engineers working for them. They certainly know what they are doing & so do the idiot accountants that work in the same engineering depts. dictating everything.

 

HI
First- Part No. #126. On the drawing, it appears to be a separate part, but in order to remove it, you have to take apart the entire blade housing cover to get to any bolts holding it on the blade cover.
That's a lot more complicated than what you might think. It makes sense that part #126 would be removable.

Second- On my saw, I took a very close look at that part 126. To me it looks like it is actually a part of the aluminum blade cover casting which means it cannot be removed at all. But I WILL take another look at it. In the drawing, they also show a part #129. There are two part #129's and they support the motor casting and mounting. One of them is shown as sitting on that part #126. On my saw, that is not the case. Both of those part's 129 bolt onto the lower blade guard casting.

Third- I have the actual user's manual for this saw. In the manual all the part numbers on the drawing are different from the part numbers posted in the drawing above adding to the confusion. However the drawing in the owner's manual and the one posted are the same. However, the actual saw itself is NOT the same construction as detailed in those drawings. If this sounds nuts to you, its because Porter Cable obviously made changes to this saw at some point in time but NEVER bothered to update their parts drawings. This is the only thing I can figure out here. Their stuff is a mess.
Its no surprise to me why the so called authorized repair depots charge $200 (as posted by another person) to change out a stupid $10 plastic bevel gear.

I've run into this problem with other equipment manufacturers who do not post the revised drawings on line. I've run into this many many times with John Deere equipment. Their drawings & part numbers contain many errors & revisions but they neglect to release them. Why I don't know. Their own dealerships have not been able to chase down parts for me without getting the area supervisor involved. Global sourcing, or just make it ad to the bottom line & force people to buy new or pay idiotic repair fees.

After having said all this, what I am thinking might be easier, is to remove the entire saw table top & lift it off. That would allow me to remove the #126 once I remove the screw holding the bevel gear in place. But right now I don't even know if removing the table top is possible & I'm not in my shop to take a look at it. PC is no longer the company it once was. Its now just a bunch of cheaply made junk by Black & Decker.

Thanks for your effort, but that video you linked me to really does not help this situation. Actually I found the video you posted earlier & looked at it. But thanks anyway for your effort. I appreciate it. I guess I will still have to just tear this entire stupid saw down to change out that one gear. Unbelievable. I worked for a major oil filter manufacturer. We had engineering drawings for every part & kept strict control over part numbers and revisions. We even had a drawing of a piece of common string that went into one of our filters, along with a rubber band drawing. These companies do not have stupid engineers working for them. They certainly know what they are doing & so do the idiot accountants that work in the same engineering depts. dictating everything.

Good luck with it, let us know when you have if figured.
It is the sawdust in the threads and gears that caused these things to break.

 

This is a dewalt but it might help, with out the blade with the saw upside down he unbolted the motor.
Change the bevel gear on the dewalt dw745 table saw - YouTube

 

A Shear Pin seems favorable for these applications . Shear the pin , time to clean the machine and lube it .

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_pin

 

A Shear Pin seems favorable for these applications . Shear the pin , time to clean the machine and lube it .

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shear_pin

The trouble with shear pins, after the first time they shear they are replaced by something stronger to fix that perceived problem.