Rubs on something that causes a short. They need to talk to some one with a clue.

 

What are you thinking … works for a while, heats up, expands, makes contact?

And apparently they had a service call but the tech was useless.

 

Across hot to hot = 240v
hot to neutral = 120v
hot to ground = 120v

It may be hardwired to a junction box, which is the normal scenario. Do you know who wired the circuit? From the junction box to the oven is probably an armored cable, so there should not be any "rubbing". You'll need to inspect the breaker and its connections. Be prepared to send us pictures as you work on it.

 

Unfortunately the installation instructions available on the ge website are terrible, they don’t say if it’s a plug or bare wires. Since it doesn’t call for a particular receptacle type i’m leaning toward hardwire. I’m going to have to cobble together something that i can use to support the oven when i pull it out of the cabinet.

 

I've installed lots of slide-in ovens and cooktops. None of them were cord & plug, they all hardwire in. The junction box could be in the same cavity behind the oven, or in an adjacent cabinet.
I highly doubt there is any rubbing, and it wouldn't come and go as the oven is not being moved. Sounds lie something in their control panel. That or failed temp sensors.
Are both ovens doing the same thing?

If you need to slide it out, you could ask them to give you the measurement from the floor to the bottom of the cavity that holds the oven. Then you could make a little stool to match the height. I have used sawhorses with a board on top for the oven to sit on. First, I would check the adjacent cabinet to see if the junction box is there. If it is, you may not have to pull the oven out.

 

I was thinking of asking for a dimension, and then use a full size furniture dolly and scraps of 2x4 for cribbing. The cooktop is adjacent to it, possibly the j-box is in the cabinet below that. I will ask if anyone paid attention when the oven was installed.

 

Here is a tale for you.

Years ago, I was called to a home where BUBBA had replaced his wall oven with new.

it was wired correctly and installed properly.

It would begin to heat and shut down.

He thought that he had bought a bad oven.

I got there and during diagnosis noticed the WIRENUTS were loose.

AHA, I thought, and replaced the WIRENUTS with new ones from my supply.

Turned out that BUBBA had re-used the old WIRENUTS and they lost contact soon after the current started flowing.

I was there 15 minutes, and BUBBA was upset that I had to charge the trip charge, and the minimum one-hour service fee.



Point is check those WIRENUT connections.

ED

 

When it shuts off, do they have to re-set a breaker? If not, it could either be a faulty connection or an internal problem.

 

That's BS that the cabinet is too tight. The oven front is 23 3/4" and ge only requires a 22 1/2" opening in a 24" cabinet. From the pics, it surely meets that. I agree that it's most likely a wiring issue, but why didn't the installer come back and verify it's working/not working condition? If you do end up having to pull it out, I'd move the junction box to the upper cabinet if possible to make it easier to service. Mine is the upper only version of that and the sides are smooth, nothing to rub that could affect the operation.
I still don't understand how they can sell her a $2k oven, install it, and then leave her with an inoperable product?

 

I sent an email to the neice with several questions … will report back.

 

Ok, it’s like pulling a confession out of a child. The tech who came for the service call pronounced the cabinet too tight. The breaker trips sometimes but not always, the oven just quits. No response if there are any error codes.

 

So my plan du jour is to take some basic tools and a vom, find the connection between the oven whip and the conductors, check for loose connections, check voltage, check for loose connections in the breaker panel, confirm conductor size and breaker size. Manual calls for 30 A. What should the conductors be?

 

If it was wired and breakered for 30 amps, 10 gauge wire, BUT most likely it has a 40 amp breaker and #8 or possibly even #6 wire, depending on that the tech decided to use for the run to the junction box.

 

I think they hired an electrician to run the new (replacement) circuit, so the breaker and conductors should be correct.

 

No clue if this is in any way related to your problem, but our brand new Whirlpool oven would 'quit'. It would heat up to the pre-set temperature then seem to lose interest. It wouldn't go completely off but would only a temperature of about 150* or so. It took three warrantee calls and two sets of techs (after I complained about the guy that did the first two). There was much talk between the tech and WP tech support but after about an hour they did solve it.

Pronouncing the cabinet clearance as the problem sounds like a tech wanting to clear a warrantee ticket as fast as possible, get paid for it and move on. I would verify the dimensions from the installation manual as Wrangler suggests, maybe take a few pics, then make some noise.

I don't know about wall mounted ovens but stoves typically don't have wiring down the sides so I'm not sure what could get pinched.

 

Pronouncing the cabinet clearance as the problem sounds like a tech wanting to clear a warrantee ticket as fast as possible, get paid for it and move on.

Eggs-aktly!

 

Update. What a freaking mess. The house dates to about 1962 and is mostly original. So SIL ordered a new double oven and paid nephew to install it, apparently he had some experience or something that she thought qualified him. SIL is something like 86 YO. Nephew removed the old oven, discovered electrical was wrong (almost certainly 3 wire vs 4) and hired an electrician to change tht. Then nephew installed the oven. Don’t know if it ever worked properly in the 8+ months since then.

We live 6 hrs away but were planning to visit for thanksgiving. I voluntered to work on the oven, and in the mean time sil came up with a honeydo list. Anyway, looked at the oven, it was not installed correctly, it was not pushed back into the cabinet all the way. Looked like a hack job. Pulled it out about 3” and replaced the control board. Wasn’t particularly hard job, except getting the panel closed back up ... very difficult … “wasn’t this hard to take apart”. Could not get the oven back into place, it sticks out an inch. Had help cuz it weighs over 150# but it would not budge. While it was pulled out I checked cabinet dimensions … they are correct.

Fired it up even though it is an inch out … error message, something about door lock. Tried resetting several times, could not clear it. Wife and niece were there, so i had proper supervision, could not clear the error. So we left it, no better or worse than before. I feel defeated.

 

You tried, you get credit for that.

Likely it has a sensor to know if it is properly in the cabinet correct.

ED

 

Have you checked out this site for the error code? F9, FC, LOC/unlock door codes?

Range & Wall Oven - Oven Error, Fault or Function Codes