I'd like to move a duct vent over one joist lane starting at or near the main trunk. The trunk has built-in outlets coming off diagonally to better accommodate the air flow. These diagonal elbows that come off have the dampers built in. Running parallel to the trunk, 16 1/2" away is a cinder block wall finished with drywall. As a result, a sort of vertical elbow piece was used to immediately bring the outlet up into the joist lane above. I'm open to any suggestions on how to best do this, but here are 3 ways I'm considering.
A) Simply seal off the exiting limb then cut a new outlet from the trunk where I want it. Problem might be amount of space I have to work with and the need to have a fitting with a damper in it. Then I'd need the ductwork to immediately go up into the joist above in a sort of vertical elbow. My feeling is I should use something like what's called a 6" "take off" from the main trunk. Something like this:
![Image]()
However, I'd want to have a built in damper and I'd still need to make a quick turn to get me into the joist lane. I haven't worked with 6" ductwork much, but maybe I could just use some flexible 6" ductwork to make my curves? I'm actually not sure if the above fitting will even fit without interfering with the previous outlet I'll be shutting off.
B) Leave the outlet in the trunk where it is with damper intact, but then sever it just after the damper and try to use elbows to turn it over to the joist lane next to it, then turn it again and then turn it up to get into the correct joist lane. I might need to custom make an adapter to make the transition. Maybe convert to a 6" flexible duct to make the turns easier.
C) Just cut the entire diagonal elbow section out of the main trunk, then move the whole section downstream (one joist lane over). Then go back and patch with sheet metal. That way the diagonal elbow, the damper inside of it, and the elbow going up and into the joist lane would all move with it. No need for more or special elbows. No need to convert to 6" circular duct. I wouldn't be able to move the entire 4-wall section because it's actually wider than the section where I want it to go. The trunk tappers down and becomes more narrow as it moves downstream.
NOTE: However I do it, the run will be very short, terminating with a vent within four feet of the main trunk. As a result I'm not at all concerned with the amount of elbows and turns the run makes. Ductwork will terminate in a 4x10 rectangular wall vent close to the floor.
I'll also add that I'm not afraid to make my own ductwork with sheet metal screws, pop rivets and metal tape, if necessary. Then again, I'm not afraid to spend a few bucks on adapters or fittings either.
Below are some pics which should make this much easier to understand.
Thanks if you can help!
Here's a bottom view of the trunk with the cinder wall at the bottom of the photo:
![Image]()
Here's a side view of the elbow that starts at the damper and goes up into the joist lane above. These vertical elbows are everywhere along the limbs coming off the trunk. This particular one is not the one I'm working with, but it was easiest to see because it was exposed.
![Image]()
And here's the same vertical elbow take from below looking up:
![Image]()
A) Simply seal off the exiting limb then cut a new outlet from the trunk where I want it. Problem might be amount of space I have to work with and the need to have a fitting with a damper in it. Then I'd need the ductwork to immediately go up into the joist above in a sort of vertical elbow. My feeling is I should use something like what's called a 6" "take off" from the main trunk. Something like this:
However, I'd want to have a built in damper and I'd still need to make a quick turn to get me into the joist lane. I haven't worked with 6" ductwork much, but maybe I could just use some flexible 6" ductwork to make my curves? I'm actually not sure if the above fitting will even fit without interfering with the previous outlet I'll be shutting off.
B) Leave the outlet in the trunk where it is with damper intact, but then sever it just after the damper and try to use elbows to turn it over to the joist lane next to it, then turn it again and then turn it up to get into the correct joist lane. I might need to custom make an adapter to make the transition. Maybe convert to a 6" flexible duct to make the turns easier.
C) Just cut the entire diagonal elbow section out of the main trunk, then move the whole section downstream (one joist lane over). Then go back and patch with sheet metal. That way the diagonal elbow, the damper inside of it, and the elbow going up and into the joist lane would all move with it. No need for more or special elbows. No need to convert to 6" circular duct. I wouldn't be able to move the entire 4-wall section because it's actually wider than the section where I want it to go. The trunk tappers down and becomes more narrow as it moves downstream.
NOTE: However I do it, the run will be very short, terminating with a vent within four feet of the main trunk. As a result I'm not at all concerned with the amount of elbows and turns the run makes. Ductwork will terminate in a 4x10 rectangular wall vent close to the floor.
I'll also add that I'm not afraid to make my own ductwork with sheet metal screws, pop rivets and metal tape, if necessary. Then again, I'm not afraid to spend a few bucks on adapters or fittings either.
Below are some pics which should make this much easier to understand.
Thanks if you can help!
Here's a bottom view of the trunk with the cinder wall at the bottom of the photo:
Here's a side view of the elbow that starts at the damper and goes up into the joist lane above. These vertical elbows are everywhere along the limbs coming off the trunk. This particular one is not the one I'm working with, but it was easiest to see because it was exposed.
And here's the same vertical elbow take from below looking up:
