[Kschlach]

So we’re changing our shower in our master bath in our 1960-built home and have the wall down to the studs. The finished wall is 3/4” think (3/8” drywall and 3/8” plaster veneer). What is the best way to match that thickness? I was planning on using Kerdi Board but can only find 1/2” panels at Lowe’s or Floor & Decor. Can I shim the Kerdi Board? Also, how should I match the new wall around the vanity where we took off the tile and the plaster disintegrated so we removed the drywall? 3/4” green board isn’t easy to find. Can I double up 1/4” and 1/2” drywall? Is shimming it best?

 

[Bud9051]

Doesn't look like there is a lot there. Would it be easier to just remove all of the old and install new 1/2" Too many times I have caught myself being penny wise and trying to save something that had little value.

Also, consider the possibility that everywhere your new whatever matches the old they will expand and contract at different rates.

Bud

 

[u2slow]

I like the Synko Concrete Fill for patching (use scrap drywall for backing) but on larger walls... either feather one gentle transition, or change the whole wall to new board.

 

[Kschlach]

I don’t know if it matters, but everywhere the drywall is removed will be tiled (except the gap on the ceiling).

 

[Mike Milam]

I would strip it all down to the studs and use one thickness throughout. You will hate yourself if you don't.

 

[u2slow]

Depending on the tile thickness, and what edging you use, may not need to match the board thickness at all.

 

[Kschlach]

Depending on the tile thickness, and what edging you use, may not need to match the board thickness at all.

That’s assuming I don’t already hate myself for this. I thought putting up a little bit of new drywall would be easier than patching the parts of plaster that came off with the tile.

 

[Missouri Bound]

Replacing it is the better way to go. But if you want to save it, double up 3/8" drywall.