Post a picture of the inside corners and what your calling trusses.

 

Joe,

Here you go. two pictures of the front corners and more of the ceiling.

 

Is the rafter on the other side sagged?
Is the wall on the other side leaning the same way?

 

Mae,

the opposite wall is not leaning. the horizontal joist in the ceiling is bowed downward. I haven't checked the rafters. I'll go get some string and check them out.

 

Is that just a 2 X 4 ridge beam?
Looks like someone messed up when building the outside corners, and also did not have 2, plates along the back wall to tie the 2, walls together.
One should have over laped the other.
How is it fastened to the foundation?

 

All rafters, joists and ridge beam are 2X6s. It fastened to the footing with bolts.

 

The bowing of the rafters would slightly and very slightly pull the wall in not out.
Measure along the top plate and bottom plate and the front and back, if the top is longer then the bottom then it was built this way.

If it is out only in the middle and not at the corners the wall is bowed out on the top.

 

The bowing of the rafters would slightly and very slightly pull the wall in not out.

Not necessary with the ridge dropping too.

 

I would have thought if the ridge sagged it would likly have pushed out both walls at the top.

You have so many bad things going on I would think it would be best to have someone come on site to look it over.
It may well be as pointed out it was just built that way by someone that had no clue. A simple step like pulling a string to align the top plate before attaching the trusses can throw off the whole wall.

 

Hello all,

I've got a garage wall that is starting to lean on one side and it's roof line is starting to sag. The lumber is in good shape, no termites or excessive weather damage. I'd like to put it in check and rectify the situation if possible and extend the life of the structure. Do you have any ideas as to what I can do to shore it up?

I feel that it will be a combination of pulling the wall into plumb and sistering the rafters and trusses? If so, what would be the correct order to do that and how?

I'll see if I can attach a few images to the thread for reference. Thanks for your ideas! This site is amazing!

JRB,

Not a big deal if the problem is rectified now than later. Other than inadequate framing opportunities (i.e. 2x4 ridge board and incorrect corners), I believe settlement (i.e. foundation and framing) had some contribution to the existing problem.

What I would do if I were you immediately are simply in the followings:

1) Measure the floor span (bottom plate to bottom plate) left to right.
2) Measure the top span (top plate to top plate) left to right.
3) Identify whether these two dimensions are squared.
4) Double check that the bottom plates are completely resting on the concrete foundation.
5) Check for vertical level of the corners to make sure all four corners are straight up.

Once you have the above mentioned completed, please transcribe the data by incorporating them into your sketch. This will then allow me to help you on the next approach. Well, of course, everyone else would then be able to chime in...

Ps. Do you know who built this shed/storage building? (I am hoping it isn't you...)

 

JRB,

Not a big deal if the problem is rectified now than later. Other than inadequate framing opportunities (i.e. 2x4 ridge board and incorrect corners), I believe settlement (i.e. foundation and framing) had some contribution to the existing problem.

What I would do if I were you immediately are simply in the followings:

1) Measure the floor span (bottom plate to bottom plate) left to right.
2) Measure the top span (top plate to top plate) left to right.
3) Identify whether these two dimensions are squared.
4) Double check that the bottom plates are completely resting on the concrete foundation.
5) Check for vertical level of the corners to make sure all four corners are straight up.

here you go sir. these measurements are in the drawing too.

floor span is consistently 23' 6"
top span varies from 23' 7 1/2" near the front and back. 23' 8 1/2" near the center of the garage.

as to whether or not they are square, I think it is based on the lean of the front garage corners (one side of the corner is vertical, the other side is leaning).

image below for clarification

 

Get us a picture of the complete truss----that truss looks like it's the wrong design----the bottom chord is not resting on the top of the wall----I wonder if they used trusses with extra long tails and used the tails as the supporting place for the truss instead of the bottom chord---

I'm not an expert in truss work--so take thhis one as a guess----

 

Get us a picture of the complete truss----that truss looks like it's the wrong design----the bottom chord is not resting on the top of the wall----I wonder if they used trusses with extra long tails and used the tails as the supporting place for the truss instead of the bottom chord---

oh'mike,

four of the trusses have a bottom chord that rests on the top plate. 4 more have chords half way up the rafters. The rafters without any bottom chord are exactly as you describe, the tails are resting on the top plate.

 

Look at how the bottom chord of the truss is connected to the lower end of the rafter. (not shown in any of your photos). A failure of the connection at that point would produce outward bowed walls and the center of the bottom chord would carry the center weight of the roof, bowing down.

 

Look at how the bottom chord of the truss is connected to the lower end of the rafter. A failure of the connection at that point would produce outward bowed walls and the center of the bottom chord would carry the center weight of the roof, bowing down.

Where the hell are the nails?

Go back and read GBR's post (Gary). Read it twice. Then go to the excellent links he gave. Find the appropriate data for your roof.
Pay especial attention to the nail chart near the bottom of the second link. Since you only have a ceiling joist for every other rafter, those joists carry twice the load and there is twice the force to seperate them from the rafter at the heel joint.

Then make an inspection of your framing. When you understand what is failing you will be pointed at the right fix.

 

This is not truss system... It is stick frame instead. Two very different designs. Truss is of course usually stronger.

JBR,

What your diagram shows confirms my prediction...

Basically, you need to pull in your top span to match the bottom span. Easy said than done - of course.

You will need to support from the outside first to ensure the walls don't collapse on you.

Then you need to work on bring in the top span starting the middle. The top middle span is 2 inches wider! (Probably run some 2x6s to connect the middle of the top bands by laying them flat to prevent future bowing).

Quite honestly speaking, the roof though is "inadequate" to some extend, the main problem is really in your walls.

The structure is slowly collapsing, so my advise is for you to not wait any longer...

All the while, bring the front corners to upright position...

Once this is done the roof will decrease.

Depends on your own ability and degree of understanding the engineering behind this project, I would rate this project a 10/10 for difficulty. (This likely means that your siding will have to come off for you to implement the repairs).

 

Looks like the joists are 2x6 spanned about 24 feet. The span is to long and needs at least supported by a support wall or beam in the middle.

 

Get that door off the rafter ties, first, and any other load. The 2x4 and 1x4 "struts" or web members are helping the rafter ties, do not remove them. The 2x6 ridge board is fine, as are the collar ties, though they are only for high wind uplift to hold the rafters to the ridge board. This is not a truss system. http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_8_sec002_par018.htm

Check the amount of nails in each rafter ties (compare to the span/snow load listed, especially the one pictured inboard of the garage door opener; 9th chart down; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_8_par027.htm?bu2=undefined

The raised rafter tie takes the next chart adjustment factor below that. See where we are first, before fixing it.

Gary

 

plan of attack

Based on everyone's great comments and feedback, i'm starting to generate a plan illustrated below. Let me know what you guys think. Is this sound?

1) create anchor plate on top of leaning wall with 2X6
2) drill eye bolts to anchor plate and into cement floor and attach turnbuckle.
3) build wall or use floor jacks and a beam under sagging joists.
4) tighten turnbuckle and raise joists simultaneously until leaning wall is vertical and joists are flatter
5) add new beams across span to stop wall from leaning out again. Q: what should the dimensions of this beam be? 2X6?
6) add collar ties and/or sister-up rafters as needed. Not quite sure how many ties will be needed and where. I assume lower is better?
7) remove turnbuckle and floor jacks/wall.
8) put my cars in here????

 

Based on everyone's great comments and feedback, i'm starting to generate a plan illustrated below. Let me know what you guys think.

I think you’re jumping the gun here. Pushing things around and throwing a few more nails in this isn’t going to “solve” anything.

In short what I’m seeing is a failed attempt at a home made truss design. Being in Wisconsin I’m sure snow load weighs heavily into this too.

I think your first step should be to hire a design professional to come onsite and evaluate your situation and hopefully come up with a plan so you can work with what you have there.

Once you have that then you can figure out how you’re going to implement it. It will be money well spent.

 

The problem is what everyone is saying, but the reason that one spot is worse is because you have that massive overhang at the end with no real tie in. That end wall has a ton of weight .

 

This is a small garage----it might be time to remove the old roof----brace up the walls--and head to Menards for nice new trusses----and not waste time and money trying to jury rig the old sagging roof----

 

if you have a string line along the ridge and raise (jack)the ridge up to the string line and then add full length joists that go across the room and sit fully upon the top wall plates and connect to the lowest point of all the rafters where they rest on the top plate with adequate nailing and hurricane ties, you should be able to take the jack down and the ridge will stay where it is,straight. The pulley wire system will work in conjunction with/while raising the ridge. Personally, I would focus more on raising the ridge while watching the rafter to wall connection as the ridge goes up, it all could pull in by itself with no help needed or not.

 

Just thinking outside the box here from what's already been said...but why couldn't you use double 2x12 LVL's with posts under and/or them and sister them to the existing 2x6's? You can park a truck on LVL's. They should be able to support your structure no problem.