Is too many drywall screws ever a problem?

hp34234 · Jan 1, 2017

I am repainting a room in my 22 year old house, and on one exterior wall, it looks like almost every screw has popped to some extent. I have been going through and for every popped screw, I put two screws above and two screws below (each separated by an inch), sometimes more. I know the recommendation is one screw above and one below, but I would rather be extra certain I don't have issues going forward. My walls are half inch drywall, and I am using 1 1/4" coarse thread #6 screws. I think my dimples are all pretty good, just barely below the surface, enough to hold a pocket of compound.

Is there any issue in using too many screws in drywall? The only things I can imagine is that if you go to hang a picture, you could be more likely to hit a screw, but that's not really a big deal. I had a drywall contractor mention to me that it is bad because with more screws, there is a higher chance that at least one will pop. However, I didn't follow his logic. If the screws are all fully set so that they dimple the paper but not tear it, the back of the drywall should be flush with the stud. The only way you could get a pop then would be for the screw to work loose from the drywall or for the stud to warp so badly that it pulls the screw through the paper. I figure that additional reinforcement can prevent these scenarios. Is my logic flawed?

stick\shift · Jan 1, 2017

I think your process is overkill but don't think it would be a problem.

Are these actually screw pops or nail pops? And what are you doing with that fastener?

hp34234 · Jan 1, 2017

Are these actually screw pops or nail pops? And what are you doing with that fastener?

They are a combination of screws and nails. Some of the screws appear to have gone in a bit angled, so they probably tore the paper. With popped screws, I usually remove them unless they appear not to have torn the paper. Most of the nails are not so bad that you could easily pull them out, so I use a nail set to pound them in fully.

Gymschu · Jan 1, 2017

Not a problem in the least. More holding power = fewer chances for pops later on. Just more screw heads for you to cover with joint compound.

Gary in WA · Jan 2, 2017

----------Welcome to the forums!-------------

The drywall contractor was correct. If you simply have more screws than required in a given area THAT is prone to move....you may get more popping: exterior wall= more moisture with the seasonal changes and maybe a prevailing rain exposure direction? Your studs are moving due to the changing RH in them, heating season, cooling season, they get wetter- then drier--- and if you have an exterior air leak (or brick veneer) bringing in moisture to the stud bays, they will swell. Then the sun comes out for a few hours after days of rain and drives the moisture in the studs (hold 1k times more moisture than air). Pulling away from the drywall-cutting a divot in it, then pushing back on it after wet swelling- showing the light bump. The maximum flexural qualities of the panel may not be enough to stop the pops- depending on the amount of stud movement. The longer the fastener, the better chance of a pop. What type of siding? Pull the electrical outlet covers (shut off power first) on that wall and feel for a breeze there... links if needed.

Gary

hp34234 · Jan 2, 2017

What type of siding? Pull the electrical outlet covers (shut off power first) on that wall and feel for a breeze there...

The house had Masonite for 19 years, but it was upgraded to Hardiplank 3 years ago. Don't feel much air flow from the outlets (with covers removed), but I'm sure there is some.

So basically, there will be regions of the drywall that cannot support any screws at all without popping them? With 4 screws in a row, I would imagine they either all hold or all pop, assuming I set them correctly.

Gary in WA · Jan 3, 2017

My point was if there is air infiltration, the studs could easily store moisture enough to swell, then shrink later and pop fasteners; http://www.paintsource.net/pages/solutions/new%20construction/wood_shrink.htm

May want to air seal any bigger holes/cracks; around soffit if cantilever, around exterior penetrations- light box, dryer vent, etc. You need to find out why it is only on that particular exterior wall or the same problems could happen again. Is another wall on the exterior in that room... is it happening there to a lesser degree or not at all? Do you have access to a smoke punk or laxer thermometer that you see the air movement or temperature difference- showing an air leak in the wall infiltrating that room; under the baseboard or near the ceiling/wall interface; http://www.aaahome-inspections.com/files/100891076.pdf

Did you check in the attic for wind-washed insulation- dirty fiberglass (soffit intake proximity may null this)- or if drywall to top plate joint is tight- which should really be air sealed with canned foam- regardless; http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...eewall&ei=IvqWTveuIKW0sQK3zPzwBA&usg=AFQjCNHwd56o0AxLi8-V03E5cMUmwWATQw&cad=rja

When furnace is on, do you ever have moisture condensing on the bottom interior of window, or mildew behind furniture showing high RH? Is there panel sheathing under the Hardi? No idea where you live as it is not a requirement on this forum- only...

Gary

clarenceboddick · Jan 3, 2017

Are the popped screws and nails rusty? Any moisture stains on the drywall? Is there a lot of foundation movement? Do you have cracking on the interior ceiling and wall corners? I'd figure out why that wall is moving before I did any drywall work.

hp34234 · Jan 4, 2017

You need to find out why it is only on that particular exterior wall

Most exterior walls have pops. Some interior walls as well. The pops aren't all horrendous, some are just a bulge.

When furnace is on, do you ever have moisture condensing on the bottom interior of window, or mildew behind furniture showing high RH? Is there panel sheathing under the Hardi? No idea where you live as it is not a requirement on this forum- only...

I don't think I have interior humidity problems. Not sure about the Hardi, wasn't around when it was installed. I live in North Carolina, the land of high humidity and heaving clay soil.

I am planning on adding some insulation over that room, so I can check for leaks at that time.

Are the popped screws and nails rusty?

Combination of both. Nails are rusty, screws aren't. It could be the previous Masonite siding that had the moisture issue. Hard to tell because I have only been in the house going on 3 years.

I had two foundation guys come out, and neither thought I had any issues. I had a drywall guy out yesterday, and he thought it was probably from the initial settling.

Is too many drywall screws ever a problem?

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities