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homerenovator

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
The door itself (white/primer) is $139.00 and to get a colormatch on one side would be an additional $50.00 or $100.00 for two sides. These will be the garage service doors which is the primary entrance to the house. Is this cost worth it or should i just paint it? If i should paint it, how, using what type of paint? Would there be any additional maintainance either way?

Thanks
 
I know people have painted them with spray-paint cans or brushed on latex or enamel paint. I've done some with a automotive grade spray gun and used either Rustolium enamel or in the case of my house, Dupont car paint (white) as I had it here from when I painted my old truck.

Probably cost you around $10.00 with spray cans. Prep is the most important part.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I know people have painted them with spray-paint cans or brushed on latex or enamel paint. I've done some with a automotive grade spray gun and used either Rustolium enamel or in the case of my house, Dupont car paint (white) as I had it here from when I painted my old truck.

Probably cost you around $10.00 with spray cans. Prep is the most important part.
What does the prep look like? Is there any future maintainance with this?
 
Both ways will work. Any acrylic latex paint will work.
Both at sometime will need to be repainted or touched up. If you do the painting you'll already know what brand, sheen, paint was used.
When I buy those cheap doors I buy the one with flat jambs and install PVC brick moulding instead of wood.
The brick moulding the first thing to rot out.
The higher the sheen the cleaner it stays and is easier to clean.
I like to lay the door out flat on saw horses and use a 6" foam hot dog roller and a 2-1/2" sash brush for tipping off.
Comes out as smooth as spraying.
 
Just to let you know. A lot of those doors come with a Powder coat finish on them. Our door that we put in in 2012, came with a white finish. The manufacturer of the door that we purchased, only recommended painting the Brick molding and frame, since the door already has a finish on it.
 
For $139 they are primed not powder coated.As far as using automotive paint,it would cost you more than the 50-$100 to do that and you would need spray equipment.
For a lower cost door as these are I would just paint them and be done with it.
I have painted them before with" equipment and barn" paint from a farm supply store and it's held up very well.
 
For $139 they are primed not powder coated.As far as using automotive paint,it would cost you more than the 50-$100 to do that and you would need spray equipment.
For a lower cost door as these are I would just paint them and be done with it.
I have painted them before with" equipment and barn" paint from a farm supply store and it's held up very well.
Again, depends on the door you are buying, and how good of quality it is.

Lower cost doors will come only Primed. Higher end, will come Powder coated with a finish coat already applied. That is what we got for our backdoor, so that we did not have to worry about painting the door. Only thing that still needs painted, is the molding, which I am probably going to rip off this Summer, since the dog has gouged it with her claws, when she stands on her hind legs, to knock on the door. Yes, that is correct, our Golden actually will try to open the Storm door, but it sounds like she is knocking.
 
What is the sw? Does it hold up well?
Sherwin-Williams all surface enamel. It's pretty good stuff. It's an all purpose paint that can cover a variety of surfaces from wood to metal.

If it were me, I would opt for the factory finish. It lasts longer than ALMOST anything you yourself can apply to the door.
 

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Sherwin-Williams all surface enamel. It's pretty good stuff. It's an all purpose paint that can cover a variety of surfaces from wood to metal.

If it were me, I would opt for the factory finish. It lasts longer than ALMOST anything you yourself can apply to the door.
It is all about Prep. In my area, I can actually take it to a local shop that does Powder Coating, along with a few really good body shops. One of the local shops does Kitchen Appliances also.
 
check that the slab is not bigger than the one that is in the hole now. typically a door unit slab will be 1/4" smaller width wise than just a door slab purchased alone. it will be hard to rip a 1/4" off a metal door........

example. a 36" door unit slab is 35 3/4" when buying the whole unit- jamb, door, brickmold, weatherstrip, threshold

a 36" slab bought alone is 36" exactly.
 
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