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Go to Amazon and do a search on GU10 and GU24 LED Lighting. For reference, GU10 is equivalent to an MR16. I've got a bunch of 4" recessed cans that use GU10. I was spending some time on Amazon last night deciding which ones to go with. I'm looking at basically 2 types....one's that will be used with fixed lighting (not dimmed) and ones that I plan to dim.

On the GU24 side....it's basically your standard bulb....but instead of an Edison base, it has a pin base like the GU10.....and also meets California Title 24.

These are the cans I bought....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TQLP24/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is another source LED lighting...especially rope lighting...

http://www.superbrightleds.com/

 

I would go with a standard Edison base. The screw-in LED PAR20 bulbs are less expensive and more readily available than the Gu24 PAR20 LED floods.
If you decide to go with a LED and trim module, they come with a screw in adapter.

By electing to use 4 inch cans, you are driving up the cost of the project. You will end up using more cans and LED's than you would with 6 inch cans.

 

Oso....those above fixtures cost me $about $15 ea.....and came with bulbs....

 

The bulbs are halogen, not LED, right ?

Have you tried putting an LED in them yet ?
Most of the GU10 LED's have a slightly different profile than the Halogens that they are made to replace. If those gimbal trims are like many of the less expensive ones, you may end up breaking the U-clip that holds the bulb in when you try the LED's.

By the way, since you are in Calif., if you installed those into the attic space, those do not meet Title 24. Title 24 requires all can lights to be air tight and insulation contact rated, if they penetrate the attic space (entire house, regardless of room)

I get the 6 inch new construction ICAT cans for just under $9 a can. If I had to get a remodel can, they are about $15. Those are single can prices, even lower as a 6 pack.

50 watt equivalent, dimmible GU10 LED's will be about $30 apiece for your cans.

 

Bear in mind that current screw-in LED replacements don't throw out the same amount of total light as you'd get from an incandescent. So you typically need a few more cans if you're planning on LEDs using a screw-in base. But considering how LED tech is improving I'd expect that to change in the next 18 months. In the new house we're building we went with regular screw-in incandescents because of this. If the bulbs improve then I can swap them out. Otherwise I would've had to spend a lot more for additional cans and deal with the more cluttered look.

As for buzzing, you need to make SURE to use LEDs and a wall dimmer that will work together. This was true for low voltage incandescents too (MR16 halogens, etc). Using the wrong dimmer will cause noise. But for LEDs it's worse as it'll cause the elements to fail sooner than their designed lifespan. So be SURE to match the lights to whatever dimmer you want to use.

 

I have an LED bulb in a lamp where i sit and that is NOT the case ....


I have LED screw in floods on one corner of the house and that is NOT the case ...

they put out like ur date an prom night


LED bulbs also come in a variaty of "temeratures" ...cool white - warm white or
3000K or 4000K

 

Light color/temperature and output (lumens) are entirely different things. That and wattage does not necessary correspond to lumen output. Yes, it's entirely possible to have an LED replacement that puts out more lumens than the previous incandescent that might have been installed. As in, you had an old 40 watt soft white incandescent screwed in and you replaced it with a 3000k LED. The color/temp of the new element might give the impression of 'more' light. Or while the wattage is lower than the previous incandescent it's not the 'equivalent'. Then there's the angle the LED directs the light, which may be focused differently.

 

Light color/temperature and output (lumens) are entirely different things. That and wattage does not necessary correspond to lumen output. Yes, it's entirely possible to have an LED replacement that puts out more lumens than the previous incandescent that might have been installed. As in, you had an old 40 watt soft white incandescent screwed in and you replaced it with a 3000k LED. The color/temp of the new element might give the impression of 'more' light. Or while the wattage is lower than the previous incandescent it's not the 'equivalent'. Then there's the angle the LED directs the light, which may be focused differently.

Isn't that what we're talkin about ???

do you break out your lumin meter or just say "self that light is not as bright as the last one i had in thar " ...LOL

 

I've been in rooms that had cans with incandescents and seen the same rooms later with LED replacements. The overall lighting effect was less with the LEDs. This has everything to do with the style of cans, the trims AND the LED bulbs. This was also covered in discussions with lighting professionals. Not just one example.

My point is that it's not a one-to-one replacement scenario. What's yours?

 

Thank you for the insightful information from all. Certainly enough to get me started.


One additional question: Using a 4 inch cans & trim, what should I counting as the "lit-up area" ? I remember that when I was using 3 inch GU10 50W, I was told count on 36 square inches of light covereage. Does 48" makes sense for 4 inch trims?

Thanks again! And keep the suggestions coming!

 

The important thing about the LED bulbs is there are two basic types, at least by Cree which made the bulbs I bought for my gallery and house recently:

1) PAR 20,30, 38
2) Incandescent shape

With PAR I bought some PAR20 50 watt equiv bulbs for my track lights, these bulbs are MADE for this application and the majority of their light is shot straight out the face which is what you want when it's in a track light can or recessed ceiling light.
The one over my desk replaced a small fluorescent spiral PAR type bulb that came with the fixture, I totally LOVE it, it seems MUCH brighter, whiter and really lights up my desk well.
The bulbs are amazingly heavy, well made, and never get warmer than you can hold in your hand.

The incandescent style I have is shaped almost exactly like those kinds of bulbs, with a glass shell. These bulbs are specifically designed to mimic the familiar incandescent bulbs right down to the familiar filament glow.
I bought the 60 watt equiv 2700k bulbs, they use 9-1/2 watts.
These style bulbs are designed to be used where you would us incandescents- table lamps, pendants, surface mount ceiling lights ( totally enclosed is perfectly fine) etc.

These bulbs are currently $12.97 at HD
I bought all of my PAR20s on Amazon and the 60 watters from HD's web site as their site had the cheapest price and with free shipping for orders over $45.
Cree does make other temperatures, I happen to prefer the more familiar incandescent 2700k which they label "warm white," you may want a different temperature.

These are the two bulbs I bought, keep in mind that not all LED bulbs are the same any more than a Yugo is the same as a Rolls Royce, and just because a friend or neighbor bought an LED and hated it, or loves it, or had a problem, or didn't, doesn't mean a lot- they COULD have bought an off-beat brand, made in China.
I went with the Cree bulbs because of all the good reviewes and bulb tear down reviews:

Lightkiwi M9246 PAR20 Warm White Dimmable LED Spot Light Bulb, 50-watt Equivalent

This is the incandescent style bulbs I bought, Amazon's price is $16.49 + shipping, HD is $12.97 with free shipping on over $45 orders, but if you have a HD nearby buy one of these and one of the PAR bulbs and try them out, you can't really go by pictures and comments on the web, you can set them up in a temporary light fixture and see how much light it puts out and where in YOU particular situation. Then you can decide on how many are needed and which style works best:

 

There are a lot of LED lights out there !
There are a lot of dubious claims also !
That doesn't mean however that Led's are not an improvement however.
The benefit of much lower heat and radiation is foremost.
I always check the lumens output of all leds before I buy them.
But some people wont mind a lower light output
in view of the lower power usage and much lower heat output.

So the best thing to do is check all the spec's,
see the lights operating if you can,
before you buy
and judge for yourself !
lf if they are capable of doing what YOU want.

Dont just take the word of the salesman,
remember it's there job to sell more,
so some are more than willing to guild the lily, as the saying goes.

 

I am going with Cooper Lighting Halo RL560's

After your help and some research, I have decided to go with Cooper Lighting RL560 "Halo". They are sold in both Home Depot and Lowes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-6-i...6-in-White-LED-Recessed-Lighting-Trim-RL560WH-R-ONLINE/203561301#specifications

After taking 3 samples and temporary hooking them up, I like the 3000K light (83 CRI) that I am getting in my basement. It's also rated for damp or wet usage.

Before I go and buy about 25 of these, does anyone know or are aware of anything negative about this model?

Last, but not least: My future basement's open area is going to be 14 feet x 19 feet. The ceiling hight is just under 7 feet. With this in mind, I figured I will need to have 3 rows of 5 RL560's (spaced 4 feet apart) / divided into 2 zones. I will not be using dimmers.

Does it make sense?

 

After your help and some research, I have decided to go with Cooper Lighting RL560 "Halo". They are sold in both Home Depot and Lowes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-6-i...6-in-White-LED-Recessed-Lighting-Trim-RL560WH-R-ONLINE/203561301#specifications

Before I go and buy about 25 of these, does anyone know or are aware of anything negative about this model?

I would check out the LEDR56_3K from Menards. 75W equiv (vs 65W on yours, 840 lumens vs 600-ish lumens) and only $35 - 11% = $31 ea vs $50 you're paying.

If you're buying 25 of them that's about $500 saved.

I tried the Home Depot flush model, HD gimball model, and Menards flush model all in the same room and I liked these best.

 

No dimmers? With that many fixtures? Not sure I'd make that bet. I'd at least plan for dimmers, specifically ones that were known to already work with the can and bulb setup.

 

Slap some slick track lightening down there. You can actually adjust them on the rail. They have came a long way since back in the day.

 

Try this one instead:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia...ghting-6-in-Recessed-White-LED-Baffle-Downlight-6BPMW-M4/203497163#.Ua6gRdJ1-SA

20 bucks cheaper each, and with brand-name quality too.