[afjes2015]

put in a pig tail for the rooms light circuit (prior to the switch), then just continue on to the next room's light circuit?

Be sure to check your codes prior.
Some rooms like a bathroom where you are feeding from the panel to the bathroom the recptacle/s and lights you can not extend that circuit to another room or bathroom. If you were just feeding the receptalce in that bathroom then it can be extended to another bathroom.
This is why it is a god idea to get a book on codes. Also, besides the NEC codes you have to be aware of codes for AHJs which will tell you further other codes that are needed to follow.

 

[afjes2015]

I'd just learned about the bathroom outlet/light/vent stuff before I posted I'm just going to do a dedicated GFCI for lights & outlets in bathrooms, I figure with hairdryers, curlers, towel warmers, etc. it's better that way, maybe I'll add one of the two powder rooms on to any en suites I put in... I haven't finished designing the pretend house yet hehhe

Check your Ohm's Law calculations when you design the bathrooms.
Think about what hair dryers and electric hair curlers draw in amps; towel warmers etc. You may want to put in more than "a" meaning "one" circuit to a bathroom such as the master bathroom. Run a hair dryer and curler and you will probably trip the breaker. In a good sized master bath I would run several 20 amp circuits for this reason. Also if you have vanity lights and a room light for the same bathroom I would put them on two different circuits. This way if a breaker trips and the person who knows how to reset breakers is not home at least there will still be a light in that bathroom that functions. I say this because you mentioned a suite.

Also when I designed electrical for complete renovations or new builds I split up rooms into at least two different circuits for receptacles. Nothing is more annoying than having a breaker trip or a problem with a circuit in a bedroom and now no receptacles work in that bedroom. A common wall from one bedroom to another I shared a circuit. Partial may be out in two bedrooms but at least some of the receptacles worked in both bedrooms so a bedroom would not have to run an extension cord from the bedroom to another room just to have power in the bedroom.

I also stressed to home owners for renos or a new build that all receptacles are pigtailed. This way if there is a fault with a receptacle it does not knock out power downline from that receptacle. It costs a bit more in labor and materials but saves headaches in the future trying to troubleshoot receptacles. Landlords usually liked this so if a tenant said they had a bad receptacle at least that one bad receptacle did not knock out power to several of them downline and it gave the landlord time to respond.

Splitting up your circuits will add more circuit spaces and will add to the AFCI required breakers cost overall but "convenience" is the name of the game.

 

[afjes2015]

MyStriss:

In a receptacle box you have the incoming cable and the out going cable. You make 3 jumpers about 6 inches long each. You wire nut the hot incoming, hot out going and jumper and connect the jumper end to the hot screw side of the receptacle. You do the same with the neutral and ground. You will only be using one set of screws on the receptacle.

If you are using metal boxes then ground the box with the incoming ground and jumper to the receptacle and out going ground. If you are using self-grounding receptacles in a metal box then no need to add the jumper for the receptacle as long as you ground the box.

If using plastic boxes no need to run the ground to the box of course.

Because you are jumping the all hots and neutrals and grounds and just running a jumper to the receptacle if that receptacle fails the flow of electricity will not be interrupted because of the failed receptacle.

 

[afjes2015]

Joed: Not quite sure why you would do it according to post #25. If the receptacle hot part fails you will still lose downstream power.

I did say to use the screws for the jumpers.

Maybe I don't quite get your logic.

 

[afjes2015]

Mystriss: My suggestion to you since you want to learn and by your statements/questions I can tell you lack the basic understanding of how a house is wired (which is fine because you are learning) and you lack the basic understanding of how things are wired I would highly suggest you invest in a few books. Black and Decker guide to complete wiring or ones like this one are great tools and learning aids to give you a good solid basic understanding of electrical wiring and will answer a lot of your questions that you are asking. We don't mind that you ask questions but I would if I were you invest in some learning tools. When you buy the books check to see what NEC code cycle they are on. If you buy an older book off of eBay it may be based on an older version/year of the NEC and won;t be up to recent codes. If you want to know the most recent year of the NEC go the NFPA and check their site.

Again, local codes will be in addition to the NEC codes so always have to check with AHJs for them.

 

[afjes2015]

I think I'm going to wait on figuring out the NFPA and AHJ stuff,

You will need to at least go by the NEC which is written by the NFPA. AHJ will depend on the local of where the house will be built.

 

[afjes2015]

The NFPA does publish a NEC handbook which breaks down the codes with illustrations and examples. I used it a few times. It cost money but was well worth it. "Ugly" is good also for on-the-spot code references.

 

[afjes2015]

🥰 Though I enjoy computer programing so reading electrical code probably isn't as boring for me as for most folks hahaha

Former IT Analyst and programmer here also. Enjoyed it much. Codes are a pain to interpret sometimes.

 

[afjes2015]

Mine was Digital Equip coding, DEC, I wrote the Accounts Payable software for the company I worked for. I also dabbled in SQL a bit and worked with Crystal Report Writer a lot back in the 90s