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Gutter Guards from Home Depot - do they work?

3.6K views 48 replies 27 participants last post by  Calson  
#1 · (Edited)
Hello, everyone. We are heading into our third fall at our new house, and we’ve got to do something about the gutters. We’ve got a 70yo elm that is beautiful but a dirty tree, we’re finding out. Little branches all year long that even just a small amount clog up the gutters.

We also have neighbors with two huge oaks on one side, and on the other side a big maple. We love ‘em, shade in the summer. But the last two falls have been a pain, with gutters overflowing. Some of the issues were related to an older ‘hidden gutter’ system that has now been replaced with new standard gutter. But one rare thunderstorm this summer? A handful of branches and dried leaves and it overflowed.

We are looking at some DIY gutter guards as I heard some of the folks selling systems (like Leaf Guard) are pretty expensive. So, I went down to the orange and black big nasty and picked out two prospects (see photos). I’m wondering if anyone locally has had any experience with either, and how well they work/don’t work. Do they clog? Is it easy enough to blow them off from a ladder or do you have to get up on the roof?

I appreciate any and all comments your experience from installation to maintenance. We have a ranch/mid century modern house with 4:12 roof pitch.

(I suspect the stainless steel one would do better for the little branches and less likely to catch and hold big leaves. But I wonder if they’ll get clogged.)
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#2 ·
As a caveat, no gutter guard works 100%. They will all need cleaning eventually. However, I had clients who installed the fine mesh ones you pictured and liked them. The wider mesh will only catch the elm seeds and leaf stems.
 
#6 ·
Are you speaking of the ones with louvers that cause the water to spray dissipate out over a wider area, instead of traditional gutters with downspouts?

That is my next set of gutter plan.

ED
 
#8 ·
I have been running a trial with what I believe is the same as your top pic from HD... gutter guards
Although I got mine from costco (cheaper)
Same product different name.

Costco... *EasyOn Gutter Guard, 6 in. Width x 100 ft. Length

I have a large elm and the seeds tend to gather and form an water tight mat over the downspout hole in the gutter, been fighting them for 32 yrs.
Plus Oak leaves and the fallout from multiple 35' tall crape myrtles, flowers/seed berries/sticks etc.

I did 30' of gutter one yr ago in the worst section for accumulation.
So far so good.

 
#9 ·
Costco... *EasyOn Gutter Guard, 6 in. Width x 100 ft. Length
Hw do you install those in a K gutter? In the back, do they hook over, do you screw them in through the gutters into the facia? how about the front, screw them down? Inquiring mind wants to know :geek:
 
#11 ·
The gutter guard you purchase must match the problems you are having.

Most gutter guards protect the gutters from things like maple and oak trees.. Tree's with large leafs.. But if you are getting pine needles in your gutters, that's an entirely different thing and the gutter guards that do well with large leaves will not do well with the pine needles.

The amount of rain and snow also needs to be considered. While a gutter guard with micro-holes may work well with pine needles, it may not have enough opening area to allow heavy rains to get through those holes fast enough and the water will pour over the side of the gutter.

They're kind of specific in those regards.
 
#12 ·
The gutter guard you purchase must match the problems you are having.

Most gutter guards protect the gutters from things like maple and oak trees.. Tree's with large leafs.. But if you are getting pine needles in your gutters, that's an entirely different thing and the gutter guards that do well with large leaves will not do well with the pine needles.

The amount of rain and snow also needs to be considered. While a gutter guard with micro-holes may work well with pine needles, it may not have enough opening area to allow heavy rains to get through those holes fast enough and the water will pour over the side of the gutter.

They're kind of specific in those regards.
I have the micro guards as I stated on a 30' test section, and I have watched under very heavy rain this past year and they seems not to have any issue letting all the water thru.
That said, I am sure mine as well as any other guards if they are plugged up won't work under a heavy rain.
I had picked a section I can see out of a window to install them.
Don't really get snow or ice here so can't really comment about that, no pine needles either.
 
#13 ·
I used the steel mesh on my old gutters. Big mistake! They rusted and caused rust streaks on the gutter. I don't have anything on my new gutters. Most of the problem trees are gone now.

I heard a roofer say that putting gutter guards on takes the job of the gutter away, it's to collect water!
All the fancy, expensive one I see will let more water flow over the gutter than in it.

I saw a neat rig a guy made. He took sections of PVC pipe and put a 90 deg fitting on the top. He attached the whole thing to his leave blower. You hold the blower and pipe up, with the 90 hooked over the gutter. This allows you to blow out the gutter from the ground. Or at least a few steps up the ladder, not all the way up.
 
#15 ·
My gutter installer will install gutter guards if you want them, but he doesn't push them. I hire one of his guys once a year to come out and blow the crap out. I believe, in the long run, considering the guards can get clogged, that it is better to leave the gutters open.
 
#17 ·
I don't know if the kind at THD will work. Anticipate that debris will sit on top of the gutter guard surface, and that surface will determine if it will encourage the debris to move or stay put.
 
#18 ·
O P: I realize that you have newer replacement gutters.

But I want to suggest that you reconsider those mesh screens, and maybe next go round that you try these.


Scroll down to the Rain Handler louvered section.

And for all consequent readers looking for information consider this as well.

Sold at Home Depot as well.

ED
 
#19 ·
LeavesOut Gutter Guards !

They are a premium product with a premium price, But they work !

We had them installed last year (right after hurricane Helene devastated western North Carolina).

TS Chantal dropped 11.53"'s of rain on top of us in aprox 8 hrs. around the 4th of July. I was up during the night and the gutters did not overflow !

We are of an age where we could not maintain the gutters anymore. That much rain in that short of time would have severely damaged the house & foundation.

Not a compensated endorsement, simply a very satisfied customer of rare commodity that #@$%& works.
 
#20 ·
I use above which is traditional. Looks like homedepot but above has solid aluminum rail on front. More robust. Homedepot screen material is probably thinner too. I buy 6" wide then even if I have to cut away little bit, I make it to fit under the roof shingles. Front rail butts into the gutter and I reinforce it by screwing them together. I also overlap each piece by about 1.5". Bend the ends down to prevent birds nesting.
In nj, oak, maple, threads, wings, broad and needle leaves as well as thick dusting of pollen in spring. Pollen can cake up. Above guard will catch small branches. Even bigger branches. I leave them. I used to clean, 2 stories high, 3 above the garage, twice a year. Now I became even more scared of heights but above guard install seems to be working long term.
I am making declarative statement. I believe all small mesh will clog quickly. All guards laying flat over the gutter will clog quickly. Mesh, and I don't see the need for stainless mesh, can be very expensive. Very expensive guards will need cleaning same as cheaper above guard, so why go expensive?
 
#22 ·
I use above which is traditional. Looks like homedepot but above has solid aluminum rail on front. More robust. Homedepot screen material is probably thinner too. I buy 6" wide then even if I have to cut away little bit, I make it to fit under the roof shingles. Front rail butts into the gutter and I reinforce it by screwing them together. I also overlap each piece by about 1.5". Bend the ends down to prevent birds nesting.
In nj, oak, maple, threads, wings, broad and needle leaves as well as thick dusting of pollen in spring. Pollen can cake up. Above guard will catch small branches. Even bigger branches. I leave them. I used to clean, 2 stories high, 3 above the garage, twice a year. Now I became even more scared of heights but above guard install seems to be working long term.
I am making declarative statement. I believe all small mesh will clog quickly. All guards laying flat over the gutter will clog quickly. Mesh, and I don't see the need for stainless mesh, can be very expensive. Very expensive guards will need cleaning same as cheaper above guard, so why go expensive?
I installed 300' of these 19 years ago and they still look like new. The only issue I had with them was the leaf stems from a sycamore tree in my neighbors yard which is no longer there.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Above about leavesout system. I don't see youtube videos. No evidence it works. But I'm attaching a video of similar system that failed. Such failures are common stories now that they've been around long enough. I'm not saying don't use it. I am saying regular cleaning is a must, though that can depend on the kinds of debris that fall into gutter.
Problem with gutter guards is that many new systems, esp micro mesh, stainless micro mesh, rainfall system, are very, very expensive. You might be able to get a new roof for the price. As such, they come with unearthly promises, and once they fail over time, the company is long gone.
I will never use these guards.
After having said all that, just realized micromesh, if not too micro, can be power washed for caked on dust and pollen.:) Still, power washing that high up means pro washing and I would say at least once a year after pollen season.
Here something for guard makers. How about adjustable micromesh? Holes that can be adjusted by stretching it or such for local conditions?
 
#24 ·
Ten houses, multiple states, multiple environments, multiple debris types with over fifty years of ownership - never saw a gutter guard method that worked. I'd much prefer no gutter and let the rain and debris fall onto drain rock on the ground where I don't have to climb a ladder to correct the issues.

Just personal opinion - but it seems I've had to clean the gutter guards more often than when I simply had to clean the gutters out annually.
 
#26 ·
Nomenclature is more important in this discussion than most!
There are many brands/kinds of gutter covers ie... 'Leaf filter'-- 'Leaf guard'-- 'Leaf is your uncle';).

My comments were ONLY pertaining the the trademarked brand & patented design 'LeavesOut ' gutter guards. Born & manufactured in North Carolina.

Again not a compensated endorsement!

Just one tropical storm Chantel tested satisfied customer.

I will sing the praises of any product/service that works this well.
 
#29 ·
I have found that fine mesh version absolutely suck. They catch way too much small stuff than can easily be flushed down your gutters without clogging your downspouts. They are going to need much more cleaning. I have been using the heavier gauge and wide mesh with great success.

This is personal experience.
 
#30 ·
I used various types of gutter guards over the years. They all let leaves and debris in. The problem I find with them is that once leaves and debris gets in, you then have to remove the guards to clean the gutters. The solution I came up with is to install the wire mesh that just goes into the downspout and stands up a few inches so that, if the gutter gets clogged the water can still go down. $10 for 6. 6 Pack Downspout Guard Filter, Gutter Downspout Guard Gutter Guard Strainer Mesh Aluminum Expandable Gutter Screen, Gutter Protector from Leaves Debris Clogging - Amazon.com
To clean my gutters, I have an extension for my leaf blower. Makes quick work of gutter cleaning. The only thing I'll add is to wear a hat as it sometimes blows the muck down on me. Mine is a ranch. Might get a bit more difficult if you have a 2nd floor,
 
#31 ·
My yard gets tons of leaves from pecans, elms, oaks, and the messiest giant sycamore in my yard that you can imagine. I tried all sorts of gutter covers, all with limited success. As noted, leaves and stems stick in the grates on the covers. Worse, organic particulate material settles in the bottom of your gutters and pretty soon, things start growing because it's a major PITA to clean your gutters once you have the covers in place. You'll have lovely green weeds growing through your gutter covers.

My answer was to simply remove my gutters... no more problems. A short stretch over the doorways is all I have. I have seen these gutter replacements that supposedly break up the water dripping off the roof but I've never tried them. 4 in. x 25 ft. Brown Aluminum Gutter with Brackets & Screws - Value Pack of 25 ft.

Prior to removing my gutters, I fashion a shop vac extension which made it relatively easy to blow the gutters from the ground... but trees shed all kinds of stuff, including dead branches, so climbing work is still required.
 
#32 ·
My yard gets tons of leaves from pecans, elms, oaks, and the messiest giant sycamore in my yard that you can imagine. I tried all sorts of gutter covers, all with limited success. As noted, leaves and stems stick in the grates on the covers. Worse, organic particulate material settles in the bottom of your gutters and pretty soon, things start growing because it's a major PITA to clean your gutters once you have the covers in place. You'll have lovely green weeds growing through your gutter covers.

My answer was to simply remove my gutters... no more problems. A short stretch over the doorways is all I have. I have seen these gutter replacements that supposedly break up the water dripping off the roof but I've never tried them. 4 in. x 25 ft. Brown Aluminum Gutter with Brackets & Screws - Value Pack of 25 ft.

Prior to removing my gutters, I fashion a shop vac extension which made it relatively easy to blow the gutters from the ground... but trees shed all kinds of stuff, including dead branches, so climbing work is still required.
If you remove your gutters, you'll want to make sure you have rock or concrete below, so the runoff doesn't dig a hole next to your foundation and that the water runs away from your house. Otherwise, you could be creating foundation issues.
 
#33 ·
I installed the stainless steel ones that attach under the shingles and then screw onto the lip of the gutter with a self-tapping screw. I have NOT had to clean out my gutters since—over 2 years now. These look quite a bit like the ones advertised on TV as Leaf Filter. But, what none of them tell you, you WILL have to clean off the top of the guard periodically since debris with accumulate on them and won't blow off. It just sits there. Especially pine needles. When I purchased them at HD, I got an offer for a free right-angle brush that screws onto a pole. So I can clean them off from the ground. It works pretty well. But, as chandler48 pointed out, no guard is 100%, and I agree with that.
 
#34 ·
Some years back, my father in law came and stayed with us for a while. He had a bug a boo about the gutters and called a company called "Gutter Helmet" to install the Gutter Helmet system. (Google it). I lived in that house another 20 years and never cleaned the gutters again. It was a wooded lot with a mix of trees including pine and oak. I was worried about the pine needles, but they were not an issue.
 
#37 · (Edited)
Based on everything I have read, gutter guards simply don't work, and you'll be disappointed down the road. As far as pricing goes, if you are determined to try some from a company that does installations, after they give you a price, simply tell them that its way out of your budget, and that there is no way you can spend that kind of money for gutter guards, and I'll bet the price will come down, possibly several times as they keep lowering the cost. I had one salesman for a now popular brand quote me $1,500 for about 50 feet on the front of my house near 3 large problematic birches and when i told him that it was way too much, by the time he got done, his price was down to $475.00 for the same 50 feet! Just assert yourself a little more and don't agree to their first price. BTW, I had the birches cut down and replaced it with a Japanese Maple (an Emperor; it only gets 12' high with a 12' crown, and beautiful scarlet red foliage, and zero upkeep).
 
#38 · (Edited)
There’s a small section of gutter, maybe 4’, on our first floor and I put those triangular black ‘sponge’ gizmos in that part. I’ve never observed them in a heavy rain but they don’t seem to collect debris and they seem to work. I may try them in the front part of first floor. The second story gutters are overflowing in the back when it rains now and that will need to be dealt with. New roof and gutters last year. In the process of buying this house. The house Dad built in the 1950s and we grew up in.
Many things to learn, putting it mildly. One plus is I’m well aware of most of it’s issues.
 
#39 ·
I remember my grandparent's house back in the 50's. Tin roof, no gutters, but a line of gravel at the drip line to keep the water from splashing or washing out. I loved to sit on the swing and watch the rain fall off the roof in sheets sometime. You could reach your hand out and disrupt the sheeting. Just reminiscing.