[tom1336]

Good day to you all. Nice forun you have hear. Took a look around and did not find what I am looking for.

I have a GoodMan Heat Pump 2 stage AC unit. Model # GPH1560M41. My thermostat is a Write Rogers Model number 1F83-277.

Last week an AC technician found the Run Capacitor had gone bad and I paid the labor to replace it. Part was under warranty.

He then checked the system by turning every thing back on. Things seemed to be fine for about 5 minutes... But he then spent about 2 minutes doing something with the thermostat. And then instead of cooling in cooling mode, the unit produced heat. No mater if set for heating or cooling.

He told me the t6hermostate had suddenly blown and gone bad and was not energizing the reversing valve.

He wanted over $300.00 for the exact thermostat, plus labor. I thought it was strange that the thermostat would fail like that, and his price seemed ... Well high. I told him I did not have the money to fix it right know. He told me he could "Jump the Reversing Valve" for now, but I need to replace the thermostat ASAP and to make sure I call him to do it, or I would have no heat in Winter.

He ended up telling me he jumping the Reversing Valve to keep it running in cooling Mode no matter what.

I called Wright Rogers and over the phone they had me trouble shoot the thermostat, with them on the phone and me pushing buttons and telling them what the read out was, per their directions.

We checked the configuration menu and the thermostat was now somehow configured as a multistage system, MS2. We changed this to HP2. But the only way to know if this fixed it is to undo the "jumper".

I contacted the technician and explained this to him. He told me he would come out and remove the jumper for $200.00 (normal "service call charge is $98.00), and then I should forget about ever calling him again.

I have searched the internet just to see what a Wright Rogers Model number 1F83-277 thermostat goes for. It is a discontinued model and I can buy one easily new in box for under $80.00 retail. Including delivery.

I did turn the unit off at the thermostat and disconnected the power at the roof top electrical box. I opened the unit, but I could not see what looked like a "jumper" wire to remove it. I would like to remove the "jumper" to see if it is the thermostat or not.

I do not have experience working on AC units. But I have worked on household power, and worked around 120 and 240 volt lines and know to always kill the power at the main, and then test to make sure it is OFF!

Any ideas on how to find the "jumper" and put it right?

I thank you guys and gals for you time and assistance on this.

 

[Done That]

You need to be looking at the 24V control voltage side of the system. On Goodman the reversing valve is normally energized in cooling by the thermostat "O" terminal output. You should be able to check to see if the tstat is putting out 24v on O while set to Cool mode.

If not, maybe he jumpered the outdoor unit at the defrost control board "O" terminal by connecting R (24V hot) to it.

Remember that you can smoke your 24V transformer in the indoor unit, or an indoor or outdoor control board if you accidently mess up while troubleshooting 24v wiring, so if your not sure what you are doing you should maybe call another tech for a second opinion or at least power down the indoor unit (and outdoor) while doing this to remove the chance of accidentatly touching a wire where it should not be and costing yourself some more $.

 

[tom1336]

Thank you for the response. I still have some questions. I appreciate your patience with a DIY that has not done this before.

White Goodman sent me info on the thermostat installation. It helped me understand the wiring at the thermostat.

I tried to look at the voltage between "O" and "R".
So I used a digitail volt meter in DC mode to see if the thermostat is now sending 24V to the reversing valve. "R" is the Positive and "O" is the negative. Although with a digital volt meter it would just read a - if I got it backwards, but it would still read the voltage.

Switching this on and off between modes etc, is a pain with the cover off as it uses those soft magnetic switches. I know the trick of taking one of the buttons off the cover to use it with the cover off.


When the unit is running in cool mode should I see a constant 24 volts? Or??

I'm not sure if the unit sends a constant voltage when it is on, or only when it is switching between heating and cooling modes. Or if it sends a "short" voltage "Burst" how long does it last? So how do I "look" for the 24 volt "signal" to the reversing valve.

My thermostat is the 1f83-277. I have attached to the "O" and to the "R". On switching from heating from cooling I see a very short "bust", but it is so short I can't see the voltage on my digital meter. I just see that it registered voltage. When the system is on and just running I see no voltage. Should I disconnect the power to the A/C unit when testing the thermostat? Or leave it on? My unit is a Goodman GPH1560M41 2 stage heart pump heating and cooling unit.

Anyone know what the wiring inside the unit itself should be as for wire color to wire color from the thermostat wires to the unites wires. If I can find out "how" the tech jumped it by looking at the connections between the thermostat wires and the units wires based on what color to what color, I can undo the jump and see if the unit now works, and if not replace the thermostat.

I also know to take a photo of the connections before I change anything so I have a photo or two to go by if I need to put things back.

Again thank you all for putting up with a DIY.

 

[beenthere]

Look to see if he has a jumper connected to O and R in the thermostat. if not there, then in the control panel or the outdoor unit, if not there, then it will be at teh indoor unit.

Sounds like you caught him trying to pull a fast one. After you remove the jumper. call him back and let him know you will be telling your neighbors about him. And the way he tried to pull one over on you.

 

[tom1336]

Look to see if he has a jumper connected to O and R in the thermostat. if not there, then in the control panel or the outdoor unit, if not there, then it will be at teh indoor unit.

Sounds like you caught him trying to pull a fast one. After you remove the jumper. call him back and let him know you will be telling your neighbors about him. And the way he tried to pull one over on you.

I already looked on the roof and took the cover off were the thermostat wires connect to the unit. Could not see anything jumped between the wires up there. At least nothing looking like a jumper wire, etc. I think he may have simply moved a wire from the unit side to a different wire on the thermostat wires on the roof top unit.

No jumpers installed on the thermostat inside the house, and all wires by color seem to be connected right.

When he said he was going to jump it, he did go on the roof.

I do not know if he set the thermostat wrong and caused the problem as a "fast one" or as a dumb one and but it could be either way. Because the reprogramming he did will create the problem. I have reprogrammed the thermostat, but need to fix the jumper issue to see if all is right.

If all is right I will be asking him for an explanation so to say.

You kind of lost me on the "the control panel or the outdoor unit, if not there, then it will be at teh indoor unit". My unit is a packaged 2 stage heat pump on the roof. Not separate units. I only have the thermostat inside the house, and the wires from the thermostat go straight into the unit to a side panel where the Start capacitor is, along with the wires on the unit that connect to the thermostat wires.

If needed I can post photos of the connections at the unit and at the thermostat.

 

[beenthere]

Will need pics to see what wires are where.

 

[tom1336]

Hopefully this well help you to help me... As the saying goes...

Photos from the inside of the Thermostat

From the Goodman heat pump two stage unit on the roof where unit wires connect to thermostat wires.

I also found this diagram wiring info posted on the panel of the Goodman unit.

 

[scottmcd9999]

On the OUTDOOR unit: The bundle of wires with 2 red wires, an orange wire, and a blue wire should actually be 2 bundles - the two red wires should be connected ONLY to themselves, and the Orange and Blue wires should be connected ONLY to themselves. The tech connected them together to force the reversing value to be always on.

 

[beenthere]

On the OUTDOOR unit: The bundle of wires with 2 red wires, an orange wire, and a blue wire should actually be 2 bundles - the two red wires should be connected ONLY to themselves, and the Orange and Blue wires should be connected ONLY to themselves. The tech connected them together to force the reversing value to be always on.

Yep..

 

[tom1336]

I do not want it to be forced to be always on. I want to know the way it should be with every thing correct as it should be under normal working conditions.

Supposedly the AC guy jumped it some how. I want to unjump it and put it back to "Normal".

 

[tom1336]

I do not know if this info will help or not?

 

[scottmcd9999]

We told you how to "unjump" it:

On the OUTDOOR unit: The bundle of wires with 2 red wires, an orange wire, and a blue wire should actually be 2 bundles - the two red wires should be connected ONLY to themselves, and the Orange and Blue wires should be connected ONLY to themselves. The tech connected them together to force the reversing value to be always on.

The tech just bound the reversing value lead (the orange and blue wires) to the 24v lead (the red wires), so the reversing valve is always energized. If you "unjump" them, you will be back to normal (at least as far as we can tell from the pictures).

 

[COLDIRON]

Nice job scott can't get any simpler than that.

 

[tom1336]

So simple even I finally got it! Thank you!

 

[tom1336]

THANK YOU! I undid the jumper and system is now fine. It was that it had been set to "MS" mode and not "HP2" Mode.

 

[Young sav]

You need to be looking at the 24V control voltage side of the system. On Goodman the reversing valve is normally energized in cooling by the thermostat "O" terminal output. You should be able to check to see if the tstat is putting out 24v on O while set to Cool mode.

If not, maybe he jumpered the outdoor unit at the defrost control board "O" terminal by connecting R (24V hot) to it.

Remember that you can smoke your 24V transformer in the indoor unit, or an indoor or outdoor control board if you accidently mess up while troubleshooting 24v wiring, so if your not sure what you are doing you should maybe call another tech for a second opinion or at least power down the indoor unit (and outdoor) while doing this to remove the chance of accidentatly touching a wire where it should not be and costing yourself some more $.

Brilliant, jumping it at the defrost board, as a tech , I approve..

 

[roughneck]

Brilliant, jumping it at the defrost board, as a tech , I approve..

It’s been 12 years since anyone posted in this thread, and most of the folks that responded aren’t active here anymore.
Not really worth bringing it back from the dead.

 

[EarlyTrekker]

As a general rule in most forums 12 yo posts are usually not replied to with “me-too’s”

HTH!