[anonymous1977]

I want to build one and have a few questions:

Need some guidance

I just came upon this sub and it is timely. I want to build a French cleat system for my garage to hold my tools. My questions are:

1. Do I need a backer and if so are these cost effective options instead of plywood? And what thickness? Can I just attach the cleats to sheet rock at stud locations?

2. What material do I need for the cleats themselves? 3/4 inch plywood or something else? Like 1x6 fence pickets seem cheap or what about common boards?

3. What should be the thickness? Do I rip 6 inches and then mark the center and do a 45 degree bevel?

4. What is the most cost effective way I can construct this?

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[chandler48]

Not sure how you are going to attach the french cleats to your drills and other hand tools, if that is what you are planning.

French cleats are easy to make as you describe. What, or how are you hanging the objects?

 

[lenaitch]

There are all sorts of plans out there for cleat storage. The hanger parts are pretty tool/object specific, and no doubt some YouTuber has rigged up a holder for a drill. I've done them out of both 3/4" ply and MDF and both seemed fine. I'm not sure I'd use 1x lumber since it is often not straight and true. I suppose you could put the cleats just on the open studs. The wider the cleat, the more stable the hanging bits.

 

[anonymous1977]

Not sure how you are going to attach the french cleats to your drills and other hand tools, if that is what you are planning.

French cleats are easy to make as you describe. What, or how are you hanging the objects?

I will have to make tool holders and attach them to the cleats.

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[F250]

I'll tell you what I did, and that it works beautifully for me and my garage shop scenario.

When I hung up my 30-foot long wall of wall cabinets, I used a premium 1x4 ripped in half on a 45° angle. I used 3" long construction screws to attach the cleats to the wall at stud location, through the sheetrock. I then used 1-3/4 long construction screws to attach the mating cleat to my cabinet backs. Because of the offset generated by these 3/4" thick board, I purchased primed 1x2 boards and mounted them to the wall just barely above where the bottom of the wall cabinet would hang, and attached them to the stud locations with 2" construction screws so that the cabinets hang plumb. The resultant 3/4" gap behind the cabinets allows for some extension cord runs for electrical drops, and these drops can be placed anywhere you want by simply cutting (or leaving) a gap between the cleats or bottom spacer boards.

The above methodology can be easily adapted to any other arrangement you want - multiple vertical slat style cleat configurations for multiple shelves or other tool holders, etc.

The cost is low and construction is simple while being extremely effective.

Hope that helps.

 

[anonymous1977]

I'll tell you what I did, and that it works beautifully for me and my garage shop scenario.

When I hung up my 30-foot long wall of wall cabinets, I used a premium 1x4 ripped in half on a 45° angle. I used 3" long construction screws to attach the cleats to the wall at stud location, through the sheetrock. I then used 1-3/4 long construction screws to attach the mating cleat to my cabinet backs. Because of the offset generated by these 3/4" thick board, I purchased primed 1x2 boards and mounted them to the wall just barely above where the bottom of the wall cabinet would hang, and attached them to the stud locations with 2" construction screws so that the cabinets hang plumb. The resultant 3/4" gap behind the cabinets allows for some extension cord runs for electrical drops, and these drops can be placed anywhere you want by simply cutting (or leaving) a gap between the cleats or bottom spacer boards.

The above methodology can be easily adapted to any other arrangement you want - multiple vertical slat style cleat configurations for multiple shelves or other tool holders, etc.

The cost is low and construction is simple while being extremely effective.

Hope that helps.

A 1x4 would only be 0.75x3.5. if you ripped the 3.5 in half that would be 1.75 inches. Isn't that too thin for cleats? Every video I saw used 3+ inches for one cleat with the mating part making the remaining to add to 6+ inches.

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[manutd]

A 1x4 would only be 0.75x3.5. if you ripped the 3.5 in half that would be 1.75 inches. Isn't that too thin for cleats? Every video I saw used 3+ inches for one cleat with the mating part making the remaining to add to 6+ inches.

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Depends on the weight of what you are hanging. 1.75 is more than enough for most hand tools.
The size of the cleats is more a personal preference. Some like them bigger so the tool holders sit better on them. Some make them smaller and add a support piece on the bottom of the tool holder. There are hundreds of different examples on the internet to look at. Look at a few before you make a decision. Once you commit, it is a total commitment.
The other issue with french cleats is they take up more room than simple pegboard hangers. Speaking from experience, and I have both cleats and pegboard, once you hang a tool, it generally never moves from that spot so no need for a movable french cleat.

 

[F250]

A 1x4 would only be 0.75x3.5. if you ripped the 3.5 in half that would be 1.75 inches. Isn't that too thin for cleats? Every video I saw used 3+ inches for one cleat with the mating part making the remaining to add to 6+ inches.

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No... When you make the cut on a 45, the base (widest surface) is >2" in width and when screwed to the studs on 16" centers, the boards are more than sturdy enough to hold up a heavy cabinet, and even more capable of small tool accessory shelves/holders. Remember, the multi-point hard structural contact every 16" is where your load support strength is being derived... not the width of the board itself.

That said, yes, you have more flat surface against the wall and it looks stronger, but in reality, it's only stronger if you put more screws at each stud location. I have 4 double-door cabinets, three shelves high each hanging on the structure I've described with no sagging or movement whatsoever. The cabinets themselves with nothing in them weight about 40 lbs each, and I have a good 40-50 lbs additional weight in them. Again, it's the "structural construction screw embedded deep into the studs every 16" which provides the load capacity.

Think of it this way... without the cleats, using only screws in the back of the cabinets, I would typically only use 3 screws for a double-wide cabinet (roughly 36-40" wide. The cleats only offer a simple installation (actual wall hanging effort to lift the cabinet into and out of position as needed. It really doesn't need to offer any additional strength over screwing through the back of the cabinets.

Still, if you feel better using a wider board to start with, go for it. It's just more money for no real gain.

I'm just sharing my real world experience (and being an engineer myself, I tend to over-engineer everything I do, but am also learning as I get older that it's not always either necessary or beneficial. You are in no way obligated to pay attention to what I've done, and you can (or should) adapt it in any manner which serves your needs.

 

[anonymous1977]

No... When you make the cut on a 45, the base (widest surface) is >2" in width and when screwed to the studs on 16" centers, the boards are more than sturdy enough to hold up a heavy cabinet, and even more capable of small tool accessory shelves/holders. Remember, the multi-point hard structural contact every 16" is where your load support strength is being derived... not the width of the board itself.

That said, yes, you have more flat surface against the wall and it looks stronger, but in reality, it's only stronger if you put more screws at each stud location. I have 4 double-door cabinets, three shelves high each hanging on the structure I've described with no sagging or movement whatsoever. The cabinets themselves with nothing in them weight about 40 lbs each, and I have a good 40-50 lbs additional weight in them. Again, it's the "structural construction screw embedded deep into the studs every 16" which provides the load capacity.

Think of it this way... without the cleats, using only screws in the back of the cabinets, I would typically only use 3 screws for a double-wide cabinet (roughly 36-40" wide. The cleats only offer a simple installation (actual wall hanging effort to lift the cabinet into and out of position as needed. It really doesn't need to offer any additional strength over screwing through the back of the cabinets.

Still, if you feel better using a wider board to start with, go for it. It's just more money for no real gain.

I'm just sharing my real world experience (and being an engineer myself, I tend to over-engineer everything I do, but am also learning as I get older that it's not always either necessary or beneficial. You are in no way obligated to pay attention to what I've done, and you can (or should) adapt it in any manner which serves your needs.

I want to save money too. What would be the optimal width to strip if I wanted to use for tool hangers and should I buy plywood or dimensional lumber (like common board) or fence pickets?

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[manutd]

How much wall space do you intend to use?
I/2" plywood is more than strong enough, lighter than MDF, less prone to warp/twist than wood and you can use left overs to make your tool holders.

 

[anonymous1977]

How much wall space do you intend to use?
I/2" plywood is more than strong enough, lighter than MDF, less prone to warp/twist than wood and you can use left overs to make your tool holders.

I wanted to do one to two sheets worth. I heard 1/2 inch won't hold up.

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[chandler48]

I've never done a French cleat with plywood. I would be too afraid of delamination after a good bit of usage.

 

[anonymous1977]

I've never done a French cleat with plywood. I would be too afraid of delamination after a good bit of usage.

Hmmm really? I spent a number of hours on the forums and youtube and looks like everyone is using 3/4 inch plywood. I also asked about using a 1x6 and stripping it down the middle but people seem to point to plywood.

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[chandler48]

Plywood will be fine until moisture and excessive use delaminates it. Glad you are researching it to suit your uses, but dimension lumber is not going to "warp" like others have mentioned, because you are fastening it every 16". A 1x6 ripped at 45 degrees down the middle will be more than adequate for a cleat.

 

[anonymous1977]

Plywood will be fine until moisture and excessive use delaminates it. Glad you are researching it to suit your uses, but dimension lumber is not going to "warp" like others have mentioned, because you are fastening it every 16". A 1x6 ripped at 45 degrees down the middle will be more than adequate for a cleat.

Would you recommend fence pickets? Much cheaper but I hear they are not perfectly straight.

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[chandler48]

Don't cheap out. Fence pickets will warp and bend and are second quality to real dimension lumber.

 

[lenaitch]

Plywood will be fine until moisture and excessive use delaminates it. Glad you are researching it to suit your uses, but dimension lumber is not going to "warp" like others have mentioned, because you are fastening it every 16". A 1x6 ripped at 45 degrees down the middle will be more than adequate for a cleat.

I was thinking the cleat rails are used to hang cleat brackets that are used to hold things, so once they are up there's not a lot mounting/dismounting - maybe something like bar clamps. Excessive moisture might be a problem. I was thinking more a workshop than an unconditioned garage. For my shed, I just put up a 2x4, pound in some nails and cut the heads off. Drill some holes in the handles. A few cheap tool brackets for some.

Edit: To clarify, this is for hanging lawn and garden tools like shovels and rakes.

 

[anonymous1977]

Don't cheap out. Fence pickets will warp and bend and are second quality to real dimension lumber.

Is this good?

I'm thinking of buying this from Lowe's. Any recommendations? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Severe-Wea...mmon-1-in-x-6-in-x-8-ft-Actual-0-75-in-x-5-5-in-x-8-ft-2-Treated-Lumber/4564826

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[chandler48]

Certainly, if you want treat lumber. I prefer kiln dried non treated.

 

[carpdad]

1x4 furring strips. Search and I usually find relatively straight pieces bundle. Use 2 to cut upper and lower, no need to find wide piece to make both. If making big shelf, I would use most of the 1x4 widths. Predrill, countersink and attach to wall studs. Mark a straight and level line. Not sure how organized. I organize my materials/tools in containers on wide shelf. Hand tools in buckets, bucket organizer. If you want each tool in its own places, even draw a line around it, then you may want peg board.
Plywood is convenient but I would just hang frames down the cleat and put shelves across. 2 1x4 strips make 7" wide shelf with brackets.