Normally steps, sidewalks, and landings do not need footers, just a properly setup base to pour the concrete on.
Those sections of concrete will float though, and some careful planning will keep the concrete from cracking and sinking. It's always a good idea to connect these concrete pads to a structure with rebar. Your porch does have a footing, it's connected to the house, and those steps might have rebar connected to the porch.

I believe you are in Canada, so frost is always considered. Use crushed stone as a base, and compact it well.

There are a lot of variables with concrete, and many choices. Will you be pouring this yourself? Some questions would be...
Concrete type, strength
Slump
Add fiber
Air entraining
Chemical curing agents
Liquid curing compounds

And these questions just related to the concrete, there are also procedure questions....
How thick
What slope
ADA compliant
How deep
What finish
Hand rails
Local building codes

Lots to consider. In the US, those steps would require hand rails in most areas.

 

Thank you for your reply! Yes, I am in Canada, the frost line depth is 4 feet.
I will be hiring a concrete company to do this but I really want to understand if and what kind of footings are needed here.

Some internet research tells me that it is best to put concrete pads as footings along the whole length of the steps or just the bottom one....None of the contractors I had had mentioned this, some are mentioning sono tubes.

The bottom steps and the landing in between the top and bottom steps has sunk and I want to prevent this with a new solid structure.

New top steps will be 10 feet wide, a long the whole porch and the bottom steps will be 4 feet wide.

Do you think that the top steps already have footings? They are 60 years old and structurally very good, and they look like one pour with the porch...

If you are concrete contractor experienced with concrete steps, your input is very helpful.

 

If you want to go with the extra cost of footings, it will help, but most people don't because of the cost.

I'll bet the upper steps are connected to the porch with steel rebar. The upper porch with the brick surround will have a footing under it. Anytime masonry is involved (brick) it will have a footer. A continuous footer would be the strongest, but even sonotubes would help a lot.

 

I think you will find that those steps have a footing now at 4 ft.

 

Footings Under Steps - LCM Concrete and Masonry

 

In case footings are installed, what kind of footings are needed, sono tubes or something bigger that goes around the 3 sodes perimeter of the stairs?

 

If you find footings you just knock it down as far as you need for the new on top of the old footings.
How you deal with it will depend on what you find.
You might find the the 2 side walls go right down to a flat footing, Or you might find there is a short wall down to a footing at the bottom step too. You could do a little digging around the outside and even get a piece of ready rod to pound down to see if you can locate flat footing.

 

If we don't find any footings, should we make new around the perimeter of the stairs as in the second picture above? This would be under the bottom steps 4 feet deep and 24 " wide and also the same under the side walls?

If we find something we will just add on?

 

Just looking a what you have, you said nothing about cracks between the porch and the stairs, that says you have a footing.
the first side walk at the bottom of the stair was set on poor soil it as sunk over time and and caused an over sized first step.
Looking further down to the bottom of the next set of steps, it looks like the bottom step is to low so that whole looks to have sank with the sidewall above it.
Can you show us some better pictures, maybe what is have would be better fixed than replaced.
The sidewalk and lower stairs could be foam lifted, not a lot cheaper than replacing but sure is a lot easier.

 

Yes, that's is correct. Here is an up close picture.

 

Can you tell if the brick or the stairs went in first?
Would you match the right side or expand both sides out?

 

I think the brick went in first bit unsure.
I would like to expand both sides out to the edge of the porch.

In this case , should we add footings on the right side ? The expansion there would be one foot.

 

Just guessing on what you have but if you have a footing an walls like this, the right side wall would likely have to be removed

The left wall might knocked down on a slope just below the level below the stairs so it could be uses as a support in the center of the stairs, The front wall down lower just down to where new would cover it. Unless the plan changes and it might need to be removed.

Then the new forms for the footing might look like this with rebar drilled into old concrete to tie it all together.

But that could change if the stair height and tread length are re calculated.

I think I would cut the brick and expose the concrete behind it and leave the corner in place for the best looking finish.
You would have to figure the look you are after and what the finish will be.

 

If you widen the upper steps to the same width of the porch, and there is a footer under the existing steps, you should definitely add a footer to the enlarged area. You don't want a partial footing under just the old part. If there is no footing under those steps, a footing would still be optional. I'm sure there's a good footing under the brick, if not, you would've already had problems.

It sounds like you want this as strong as you can get it, footings under everything would definitely add a lot of strength and durability.If you're going with the additional footing costs, I would pour a footing under the whole pad, not just in trenches.

Connect all of these steps with rebar, and rebar into the existing brick porch.

 

If you widen the upper steps to the same width of the porch, and there is a footer under the existing steps, you should definitely add a footer to the enlarged area. You don't want a partial footing under just the old part. If there is no footing under those steps, a footing would still be optional. I'm sure there's a good footing under the brick, if not, you would've already had problems.

It sounds like you want this as strong as you can get it, footings under everything would definitely add a lot of strength and durability.If you're going with the additional footing costs, I would pour a footing under the whole pad, not just in trenches.

Connect all of these steps with rebar, and rebar into the existing brick porch.

If you pour the walls first there is no need for a footing under it all.

 

Thanks everyone, I will write back once we see what's under the stairs

 

I have been changing my mind to do the stairs with paver stones.

In this case, is any footings required, or is it sufficient to build a proper gravel base?

What kind of base would be best?

 

A concrete base would be MUCH better than a stone base, especially with steps that are tall and heavy. A stone base could work, but it's similar to flipping a coin, you are taking a chance.

How about brick steps? They look wonderful.

 

 

I’ve rebuilt a couple of porch stair setups like yours over the years, and getting the footings right is absolutely key — both for stability and to avoid frost heaving or settling issues down the line. Here’s how I’d approach it step by step:

1. Check Local Code First
   Before you touch a shovel, check your local building code. Most areas specify minimum footing depth (usually below frost line), required width, and sometimes even rebar placement. This will guide your dimensions.
2. Establish Frost-Line Depth
   A footing should go below the frost line so it doesn’t shift with freeze/thaw cycles. In many places that’s 36″–48″ deep, but it varies a lot. This is the most important number you’ll base the whole footing layout on.
3. Footings at Key Load Points
   • Top Section (attached to porch): You’ll want a continuous footing along the 10-ft width of the new top steps, right up against the porch.
   • Landing: Treat this like a small slab with perimeter footings (think mini-foundation). If it’s freestanding, you’ll need four corners dug below frost depth.
   • Bottom Steps: For the 4-ft wide lower steps, two footing piers (left and right) below frost depth usually do the job. If it’s a wider or heavier structure, you can tie in a short continuous footing there too.
4. Footing Size
   A good rule of thumb is twice the width of the supported wall/step, and at least 8–12″ thick. For porch steps, a 12″–16″ wide footing with 8″+ thickness and rebar reinforcement is common. For heavier landings, go wider.
5. Reinforcement
   Place rebar horizontally in the footing and vertical dowels up into the new step forms to tie everything together. This prevents shifting and cracking over time.
6. Calculate Concrete Needs Before You Pour
7. Form and Pour in Stages
   I usually pour all footings first, let them cure, and then form the steps and landing on top. It’s cleaner and makes alignment easier.

Getting the footing locations and dimensions right upfront will make the rebuild go much smoother, and it’ll keep everything rock solid for decades.

 

You forgot one key item......the area between the footers and the step!
You mentioned the depth, width, and length of the footers, then you mentioned the steps, the footers might be 48" deep, and be 12" thick, what about the 36" in-between the footers and the steps?