[Jar944_2]

It looks like you held the moulded face against the miter fence?

 

[FirebirdHank]

It looks to me like the OP removed the trim that was already on the wall and added the beadboard and then re-applied the trim over the paneling. It can work on some walls but not on all. The chair rail needs to be rabbeted out so it can fit flat against the wall. The baseboard has to be re-done.

 

[XSleeper]

See post #13.

To the op.... this is https://images.thdstatic.com/produc...e2-4ed1-9e53-617ac4cbb1ce/svn/white-house-of-fara-chair-rail-w275mdf-64_100.jpg

what the rabbet profile would look like.

 

[FirebirdHank]

If that chair rail is rabbeted I'm not seeing it .

 

[Zulu Kono]

Any ideas how I might fix this without pulling the molding off and re-cutting?

That's the only way to fix it correctly.

 

[Zulu Kono]

Your miter saw, however, will only bevel to 45. You’ll have to use a shim underneath your stock on the saw to sharpen the cut angle.

I currently own three miter saws and they can all
miter to at least 50 degrees in both directions.
One will miter up to 60 degrees on the right side.
Maybe this is your first rodeo.

 

[RickRick]

Yeah thanks for the replies. Pretty much what I figured. Full disclosure, we've been having tradesmen come in, do some work, then I've been doing a little here and there as well, on a bathroom makeover. I just do the little stuff. Time is the biggest constraint, in part because I'm not a tradesman so everything takes me twice as long - have to first look stuff up on the internet, try it, make a mistake, then look up how to fix it.

This trim was done by a really nice person who apparently has not done a lot of trim work - which we didn't know and are finding out the hard way.

I think a good practice is just to dry fit the pieces before fixing them to the wall. The fella who did the chair-rail evidently did not do that. Speaking of fixing things to the wall, I think he used construction adhesive to attach the tim to the drywall. I'll find out on Friday. We have a lot of really slopping joins (no coping on the inside corners, crooked cuts, and lots and lots of caulk) and I'd like to redo all of it. I think removing what's been installed is going to cause some damage.

For the chair rail corner above, I did test it on scrap wood of the appropriate lengths and 45 degree angle cuts work.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

Looks like yours was his first attempt at trim work. Not coping inside corners is not a big deal, if you cut a neat miter.

 

[Notmyfirstrodeo]

I currently own three miter saws and they can all
miter to at least 50 degrees in both directions.
One will miter up to 60 degrees on the right side.
Maybe this is your first rodeo.

I currently own 4 miter saws. None BEVEL past 45 degrees without shenanigans. Surely you understand the difference between a miter and a bevel cut? And that I was discussing a compound miter cut, which requires both a miter and a bevel?

You should reread my post.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

In his defense … you would only need to bevel cut the trim if it was flat on the table. But why would you do that, as opposed to a simple miter cu5 with the trim against the fence? And why would you need a compound cut?

 

[Jar944_2]

Cope the inside corners and miter the outside (with the moulding upright and back against the fence) the only time I would lay the saw over for a bevel cut on the flat is if the moulding is taller than the saw can handle vertically.

 

[Notmyfirstrodeo]

In his defense … you would only need to bevel cut the trim if it was flat on the table. But why would you do that, as opposed to a simple miter cu5 with the trim against the fence? And why would you need a compound cut?

I never stand tall stock, like this baseboard, up. If the board isn't perfectly flat, it's much easier to get a square cut by laying it flat- I can rock the piece or use a clamp to crush it flat. The miter becomes a compound miter when struggling with plumb, which isn't uncommon in an older building with wonky walls. The plumb cuts were so far off in the photos the OP posted, I assumed that was the case.

 

[Jeekinz]

You have to support the end of the workpiece, no problem mitering 12+ foot trim. And if your saw doesnt go past 45 you should throw it in the trash.

 

[RickRick]

This is too much caulk here, between the shower surround and top rail, yeah?

still trying to gauge how much better I can do myself. I would probably also cut the top rail at a 22.5 or 45 degree angle where it meets the shower surround.

To replace this trim I’ll probably get DWS715 mitre saw and an 18 gauge nailer from Ryobi (I’ve got a blower from them with the same type of battery). I’ve resisted getting any exienduve power tools for many years but trying to make these precise cuts by hand would be way too difficult - I am by, no stretch of the word, proficient with hand saws. I could Just get by fur simple stuff.

 

[Jar944_2]

There is too much caulk everywhere.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

Dws715 is a very good saw. Not fancy, but reliable.

 

[XSleeper]

I’ll probably get DWS715 mitre saw

FYI, it only bevels one direction.

 

[Zulu Kono]

DWS715 is a great saw, I have one.
It'll miter 6" base standing up,
which is the only reason to have it.
Sometimes HD has it for $199.

If you don't need a saw that big,
the Metabo (Hitachi) C10FCGS is a rippin'
little saw, and sometimes Amazon has it for $99,
and replacement blades are cheaper.

I do a lot of stain-grade finish work
where caulking is not an option.
The key is dry-fitting dummy pieces.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

FYI, it only bevels one direction.

Most miter saws only go one way, unless you spend a lot of money. The 715 would be an excellent first saw for DIY.

 

[Jar944_2]

Most miter saws only go one way, unless you spend a lot of money. The 715 would be an excellent first saw for DIY.

The 716 is usually on sale for 279 or so.