[carpdad]

On gutter side, gutter will cover anything you can see, so use aluminum as advised. Crimping the edge a little makes for very nice finished line. Bend it 90 deg to cover the 2x and some of the soffit material joint. Overlap with drip edge. Use the money where it will be seen such as gable trim. I would think hardiplank cover would be least maintenance, esp factory painted. If cedar, use spacer behind. Never pine. Pine was used because there was no other choice and cedar didn't take well to paint. But anecdotally, I used pine for window trim (homedepot knot free grade), double oil based primer and double finish semi gloss, front and back and caulk seal the cut ends, window drip edge and somewhat protected by foot roof overhang, west facing, lasted at least 10 yrs and still in good condition, color white, NJ. Actually, if your location is covered by trees, not drying out well, I would spend some money and use synthetic.

 

[carpdad]

With planning, sheet metal brake is not that expensive to rent and make all you need in one day. Make at least one extra for each side. 6" overlaps without special caulking in-between. I made mine 7' each and slipped them under the drip edge. Aluminum nails about an inch from bottom edge, not into the overlap, 3 nails each length. Since looks isn't a concern, sheetmetal is the cheapest. On gable end, my rake trim was 2x6, vinyl siding j channel under 2x6 and sheet was bent z shape so that bottom flange overlapped the j channel. Always a physical drainage plane.
Cedar is beautiful lumber but need a constant maintenance. Clear coat is not long term finish and will turn gray in a few years.