If there are 4 leads total, 2 larger ones and 2 smaller ones, then one larger and one smaller go to one of the incoming power lines, the other larger and the other smaller leads go to the other incoming power line.

When connected, you'll have 2 splices each with 3 wires.

If it turns the wrong way, swap the two smaller leads.

 

Thank you, but there only 3, not 4. There are 2 big blackleads, and one small red lead. One of the blacks is still connected. Are you saying to twist the red with the other black and twist them up with the other leg of the incoming? Thanks.

 

So you really only have a black and red to connect to since one black is connected? What is it connected to?

 

A single voltage capacitor start motor like this one has 2 windings, start and run.

The run winding has larger wires (the two #12s) and the start winding has 2 smaller wires, often black and red.

Since your motor has only one of the start winding wires brought out to the terminal box, the other is likely spliced inside.

Here's what I would do; connect the incoming power to the larger motor wire and leave the smaller one unconnected. Apply power. If the motor hums but does not turn, (this is perfectly fine for a few seconds), then I would splice the smaller motor wire to the splice you just made.

I can't imagine why only 3 wires are in the terminal box, but Baldor does some strange stuff sometimes.

 

If micromind is still reading, thank you kindly. This is my Challenge 30" paper cutter made about 1960. It was originally 3 phase, but I have been runnnig it off the original electrical box. There's 2 bakelite contactors in there and a 240-120 transformer. One big contactor, as I call it, and a smaller one. Last week I was running the machine and it went POW! and went dead. I believed The transformer to be the culprit. . The big contactor has lots of wires all over it.
And ever since, all it's done was burn out fuses and throw the breaker on the porch. I bought a new transformer because the old one had arc burns on 2 of the 440/220 terminals. And I disconnected the motor. All I was after was to see if it would quit blowing fuses. I stopped that much it appears. Now I want to hear the contactors clacking without the motor in the picture. My 3rd step is putting the motor back in the circuit and see if the machine would have another loud frightening pop. But I dropped the ball by not marking my motor wires.
Translating what you've said, it sounds about 95% in favor of twisting up the loose black one with the smaller red one, and the incoming and hope for the best.

 

Look to see if the motor wires have numbers on them.

 

I found my problem. I was confused as to the wires. I've got the machine working, but have a completely different problem about which I will start a fresh thread. Thank you.

 

Please share the solution.

 

The solution for me was to look at the wires the next day with fresh eyes and realize I had totally misinterpreted what I was looking at. The whole thread need not have even been started. I can't believe as many electronic devices of all kinds that I have worked on, that I could have looked at something like this and had everything so totally wrong. I got the machine working, but now have created a situation somehow where it works continuously as soon as I throw the breaker and can't cut it off. But I'm waiting for the battery in my digital camera to charge so I can take photos to go along with a new thread I'm planning. Thank you.

 

Every one of us who is honest will admit to that type of mistake........

 

Continuous running will have to do with the switch controlling the motor not the motor.