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You could get a Y fitting and split the single 10" duct to two 7" ducts and go from there.

1100 cfm is a heck of a lot and as the others have said, you will have issues with back drafting.

hopefully it has a lower speed if only one burner is on. otherwise you'll have to open a window every time you cook or provide some form of make-up air.
 
18k btu burners? six of them? normal gas stoves have 5-8k btu burners.

what do you cook that needs 18k btu burners?

With even half the burners on it's like running a residential furnace in the house with the vent pipe disconnected. Then trying to remove all the exhaust from the furnace with a remote exhaust fan.

You'll definitely want to make sure this fan is ducted so it moves full rated cfm and find a way to get makeup air.
 
I attached the chart that came with the fan specs - but here are a few representative values that I estimated from the chart:

~1120cfm @ 0.0" H20
~790 cfm @ 0.5" H20
~550 cfm @ 1.0" H20
~420 cfm @ 1.5" H20
You'll have to size the duct so the pressure drop total is 0.2" total or less.

I suggested the Y fitting because i don't think you want a 10" hole in the side of your house.

Determine the equivalent length of all fittings including the hood, decide which fittings you need to use.

google has everything you need. elbows have a equivalent length much greater than the actual length.

Add up the lengths, add the length of straight duct. this is your total equivalent length.

Determine the standard friction rate needed by multiplying the desired pressure drop by the quotient of 100 ft divided by the total equivalent length.

From there, take the cfm on the chart you posted at the total pressure drop you're using (maybe 0.1" or 0.2") and plug it into a duct calculator online, along with the friction rate.

the calculator will tell you which diameter you have to use.

This is the proper way to size ducts if you need a specific flow rate.

It's rarely done properly because people like rules of thumb.

Every application is different and the flow rate will vary.

You will not get 1100 cfm from a fan rated at that. If you get 900 to 1000 you're doing very well, and 800 wouldn't be bad by any means.

There are contractors slapping in 200 to 300+ rated cfm range hoods and using 4" flex pipe. that rating gets cut to 100 cfm or less in the real world.
 
if the op wants a specific flow rate would have to go through that procedure regardless.

the grease factor i didn't think about but it makes sense in the same way that if dryer ducts are sized too large, the velocity isn't high enough to vent the lint.

if there's a risk of having grease buildup there would have to be a minimum velocity to size to, and if the fan is inadequate for the required cfm, get a more powerful fan.

180cfm through 4" is a lot especially if the pipe is long and/or or flex, most hood instructions spec 6".

main point was that the ratings are totally deceptive and calculations are needed to see how it will perform in the field.

they shouldn't be allowed to sell fans with cfm ratings at 0" static. imagine if they sold furnaces like that.
 
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