is there a way to make diy gutters look good ? i could use a gutter on the front of my garage. but i think hiring it out could be expensive. garage is about 30' wide, so that would be 3 sections.
diy gutters
Fix'n it
41 - 60 of 63 Posts
I did my whole house myself. started with getting quotes from companys and looking at menards.
stumbled upon this company in my area
http://www.seamlessgutterdelivery.com/
Paid them cash and they dropped the price even more. It is the heavy contractor grade coils, super thick. PS - I had a contractor come out recently and commented on the gutter installation, he asked who did it and replied, "me". he was impressed and asked if I needed a job, lol.
Anywas for the DIY'er Ill give you pointers that made the job turn out awesome:
-first step is to plan where you want the outlets to discharge to, look at the lay of the land and have the water go with it, dont try and fight it. If your house is a walk out bring all water to shed away and not just where it is convienent to install a downspout. This is the fun part because you get to pick and play with different ideas. Also if you have an upper dormer, don't just dump onto the lower roof as it will wreck the shingles down the road, better to pipe to lower gutter or all the way to the ground.
-Find a company that will do a cut and drop for cash, they bring out the truck and you tell them the measurements (Go an extra 1' to ensure you have enough)
-Go with all 3" openings (most of all debris will wash out the ends and 3" can handle wicked downpours no problem)
-I used the 5" type K style, if you have very large sections of roof I would step up to a 6"
-use Sampson brackets, the stuff in menards and almost all contractors put on it garbage and will fail in due time.
-buy enough Sampson brackets to support every 2', and install with pole barn screws from menards (you can literally hang on the gutter like griswold! I tried it, lol)
-dont get the miter boxes, just go with the miter seam and use self tapers to install. The miter box has 2 extra seams that will look like crap.
-Cut gutter to length with a grinder and a cut off wheel, tried other stuff and took too long
-lay out in yard, install outlet, end caps, seal with gutter glue and drop in hangers
-snap line, start high end tight to drip edge and drop down towards outlet (I made my ends flush with the bottom of the fascia and this great of a slope washes out all debris with minimal cleaning.
-have a hand help hold up and start screwing in pole barn screws while lining up top portion with snapped line
-Then install the gutter apron, just slip under first layer of shingle but ABOVE THE ICE AND WATER, NO SCREWS OR NAILS unless you want leaks. The gutter apron is code for installation below drip edge. Custom order the heavy duty gutter apron from the cut and chop outfit or order from menards (come in 10' lengths).
-Then it is a matter of hanging the down spouts, pretty simple just make sure the joints flow into the next.
-10' away from house and make sure you pre plan where you want your water to shed from before starting the project. 10' will keep you home nice and dry in the monsoons that are to come.
-Get the touch up paint too and you'll scratch and nick here and there, comes in aerosal can.
http://www.gutterhangers.com/homeowner.html
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...essories/10-heavy-duty-gutter-apron/p-2031217-c-5817.htm?tid=-84839071079183874
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...hite-pole-barn-screw-24-lb-bucket/p-1692667-c-12967.htm?tid=8647219526048464903
once done, enjoy watching it rain and water flying out of those nice new gutters as you sick back and sip some coffee knowing that you just saved about $1000 to put into your next project, lol
-
stumbled upon this company in my area
http://www.seamlessgutterdelivery.com/
Paid them cash and they dropped the price even more. It is the heavy contractor grade coils, super thick. PS - I had a contractor come out recently and commented on the gutter installation, he asked who did it and replied, "me". he was impressed and asked if I needed a job, lol.
Anywas for the DIY'er Ill give you pointers that made the job turn out awesome:
-first step is to plan where you want the outlets to discharge to, look at the lay of the land and have the water go with it, dont try and fight it. If your house is a walk out bring all water to shed away and not just where it is convienent to install a downspout. This is the fun part because you get to pick and play with different ideas. Also if you have an upper dormer, don't just dump onto the lower roof as it will wreck the shingles down the road, better to pipe to lower gutter or all the way to the ground.
-Find a company that will do a cut and drop for cash, they bring out the truck and you tell them the measurements (Go an extra 1' to ensure you have enough)
-Go with all 3" openings (most of all debris will wash out the ends and 3" can handle wicked downpours no problem)
-I used the 5" type K style, if you have very large sections of roof I would step up to a 6"
-use Sampson brackets, the stuff in menards and almost all contractors put on it garbage and will fail in due time.
-buy enough Sampson brackets to support every 2', and install with pole barn screws from menards (you can literally hang on the gutter like griswold! I tried it, lol)
-dont get the miter boxes, just go with the miter seam and use self tapers to install. The miter box has 2 extra seams that will look like crap.
-Cut gutter to length with a grinder and a cut off wheel, tried other stuff and took too long
-lay out in yard, install outlet, end caps, seal with gutter glue and drop in hangers
-snap line, start high end tight to drip edge and drop down towards outlet (I made my ends flush with the bottom of the fascia and this great of a slope washes out all debris with minimal cleaning.
-have a hand help hold up and start screwing in pole barn screws while lining up top portion with snapped line
-Then install the gutter apron, just slip under first layer of shingle but ABOVE THE ICE AND WATER, NO SCREWS OR NAILS unless you want leaks. The gutter apron is code for installation below drip edge. Custom order the heavy duty gutter apron from the cut and chop outfit or order from menards (come in 10' lengths).
-Then it is a matter of hanging the down spouts, pretty simple just make sure the joints flow into the next.
-10' away from house and make sure you pre plan where you want your water to shed from before starting the project. 10' will keep you home nice and dry in the monsoons that are to come.
-Get the touch up paint too and you'll scratch and nick here and there, comes in aerosal can.
http://www.gutterhangers.com/homeowner.html
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...essories/10-heavy-duty-gutter-apron/p-2031217-c-5817.htm?tid=-84839071079183874
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...hite-pole-barn-screw-24-lb-bucket/p-1692667-c-12967.htm?tid=8647219526048464903
once done, enjoy watching it rain and water flying out of those nice new gutters as you sick back and sip some coffee knowing that you just saved about $1000 to put into your next project, lol
-
lol, I just saw the picture above on what your installing the gutters.
super easy, you can for sure do this yourself!! I had to put up scaffold for my back portion, you just need a 6 foot ladder.
you can hang them by yourself, just temporarily install a screw on the other end to set on and you'll be fine (this is how I did my mother in laws house).
I would have two outlets for that garage in the back. 5" K style is all you need with 3" outlets.
Also, they can custom match any color you want, or just quick throw on some new fascia before you install the gutters.
whatever you decide, don't go with the crap from menards and home depot, trust me you will be dissapointed on how it turns out.
I can't stress how strong those sampson brackets
super easy, you can for sure do this yourself!! I had to put up scaffold for my back portion, you just need a 6 foot ladder.
you can hang them by yourself, just temporarily install a screw on the other end to set on and you'll be fine (this is how I did my mother in laws house).
I would have two outlets for that garage in the back. 5" K style is all you need with 3" outlets.
Also, they can custom match any color you want, or just quick throw on some new fascia before you install the gutters.
whatever you decide, don't go with the crap from menards and home depot, trust me you will be dissapointed on how it turns out.
I can't stress how strong those sampson brackets
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16,250 Posts
There's all kinds on videos and pics available, a simple Google search is all it takes.
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16,835 Posts
i did, nearly nothing. at least with the words i used.
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16,835 Posts
no. they didn't fit my plan.Did you use any of these.?
![Image]()
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16,835 Posts
yes, i have been thinking along those lines.
no need to be sorry there ron. ideas are just what i am asking for. but i want the DS's to be on the sides, not the front.
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16,835 Posts
UPDATE
i was clearing out the garage, and my gutters were in the way. so i decided to give it a shot hanging then. i put it off thinking it was going to be a pita.
but it was pretty easy.
the front has 3 sections, 16' in the middle and 2 10' cut down.
i overlapped the joints. it doesn't look the greatest, but not terrible either.
as the gutters are not made to join like this, but the corners are and fit well.
and just the look of having gutter up makes the garage look much better.
you can't see the joints in these pics. i will get a close up, shortly.
i was clearing out the garage, and my gutters were in the way. so i decided to give it a shot hanging then. i put it off thinking it was going to be a pita.
but it was pretty easy.
the front has 3 sections, 16' in the middle and 2 10' cut down.
i overlapped the joints. it doesn't look the greatest, but not terrible either.
as the gutters are not made to join like this, but the corners are and fit well.
and just the look of having gutter up makes the garage look much better.
you can't see the joints in these pics. i will get a close up, shortly.
Attachments
Joined
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1,994 Posts
pop rivets work well and are not as noticeable as screws but they certainly are visible. I figure once the splice is there then aesthetics is sort of off the table.
Joined
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17,155 Posts
Use pop rivets. 4 at each joint, 2 front, 2 back. You can get them in brown.
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Spectra-100-Pack-1-8-in-Cocca-Brown-Aluminum-Rivets/50092656
https://www.amazon.com/AB4-4AV-BR-M...B00WMKG7NK/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1471182387&sr=8-11&keywords=brown+pop+rivets
41 - 60 of 63 Posts
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