Hi folks, I'm having an issue with my Frigidaire (FFBD2411NS6B) dishwasher, where there is standing water left in the bottom after all cycles complete. This dishwasher is about 3-4 years old, and has worked fine in my house for about a year since I moved in.
The water almost reaches the bottom of the door and near and around the float switch. I just replaced the drain pump motor with a new one from partselect, and it's still doing the same thing. If I press start/cancel twice (to get to cancel mode), I can get some water drained out. If I do it again, I can get most of the water out, back to where it should be (just enough left in the sump area to keep the seals wet).
Things I've tried / notes:
* Disconnected and cleared drain hose on both ends (sink garbage disposal side and dishwasher side). Hose is completely cleared out.
* Disposal hose is properly high looped from back of dishwasher, up and over to disposal. There is no "air gap", this set up connects directly to garbage disposal. This is not a "new setup", the connection to the garbage disposal is not blocked, and is completely open to the disposal hose.
* Main sink / disposal is not clogged and works fine.
* All debris has been removed, all filters have been removed and cleaned
* Flapper valve on drain hose looks fine, is not cracked, and seems to lay flat properly. Also, I don't think it's this, since after forcing draining (with start/cancel button), water stays out of the bottom and doesn't come back in and fill up.
* Drain pump has been replaced with new part. Multi-meter on both old pump motor and new pump motor read ~28 ohms.
* Main motor has been taken out and cleaned, blades are clean, and turn freely
* Float switch is cleaned and moves freely up and down making a clicking noise like it's supposed to.
* I ran diagnostic mode (hold heat + start), and it didn't show any issues, it went through the tests. This model doesn't have a digital display.
Based on reading online, the last thing that it might be is a bad control board that is either not sending enough power to the motor, or is not giving the pump enough time to drain the water. I've read that I can use a multi-meter while the pump initiates to see if it's getting the correct 120v, but I'm not sure how to do this, and I can't find any videos online.
This model uses a plastic ball for it's check valve, this looks normal and slots in the groove without an issue.
I'm out of ideas and my wife wants to call an appliance repair person, but I don't want to give up or pay the money for someone else to fix it. Especially when these things run around $350 new.
Any ideas? Thank you.
The water almost reaches the bottom of the door and near and around the float switch. I just replaced the drain pump motor with a new one from partselect, and it's still doing the same thing. If I press start/cancel twice (to get to cancel mode), I can get some water drained out. If I do it again, I can get most of the water out, back to where it should be (just enough left in the sump area to keep the seals wet).
Things I've tried / notes:
* Disconnected and cleared drain hose on both ends (sink garbage disposal side and dishwasher side). Hose is completely cleared out.
* Disposal hose is properly high looped from back of dishwasher, up and over to disposal. There is no "air gap", this set up connects directly to garbage disposal. This is not a "new setup", the connection to the garbage disposal is not blocked, and is completely open to the disposal hose.
* Main sink / disposal is not clogged and works fine.
* All debris has been removed, all filters have been removed and cleaned
* Flapper valve on drain hose looks fine, is not cracked, and seems to lay flat properly. Also, I don't think it's this, since after forcing draining (with start/cancel button), water stays out of the bottom and doesn't come back in and fill up.
* Drain pump has been replaced with new part. Multi-meter on both old pump motor and new pump motor read ~28 ohms.
* Main motor has been taken out and cleaned, blades are clean, and turn freely
* Float switch is cleaned and moves freely up and down making a clicking noise like it's supposed to.
* I ran diagnostic mode (hold heat + start), and it didn't show any issues, it went through the tests. This model doesn't have a digital display.
Based on reading online, the last thing that it might be is a bad control board that is either not sending enough power to the motor, or is not giving the pump enough time to drain the water. I've read that I can use a multi-meter while the pump initiates to see if it's getting the correct 120v, but I'm not sure how to do this, and I can't find any videos online.
This model uses a plastic ball for it's check valve, this looks normal and slots in the groove without an issue.
I'm out of ideas and my wife wants to call an appliance repair person, but I don't want to give up or pay the money for someone else to fix it. Especially when these things run around $350 new.
Any ideas? Thank you.
